If you break something in a hotel room, are you expected to pay for it?
Depends on the circumstances, the guest and their attitude. Several examples for you from the last 6 months in 4* hotels :Housekeeping enter room after guest checkout and find the solid wood wardrobe lying like matchwood in a pile - no I have no idea either but … chargecurtain hanging off rail - no charge and repairaluminium fixing rod on window that holds it half open, bent and buckled - chargebed and carpet covered in sh*t - chargebed full of vomit - chargelift covered in blood and broken mirror plus full of vomit - chargemirror broken, caused by room door being flung open with such force that the rubber stop on the floor is ripped out - discussion with guest…accident they say - no chargesmoking in room - chargeled tv screen cracked - chargewine stains on the wall - chargebroken shower support in unrenovated room - no chargegenerally we speak to the guest and charge if they can’t explain it but 90% of the time they check out without saying anything…that tells it’s own storyWe have a credit card, for guaranteeing against theft and damage, so we just take a ‘fair’ amount to cover costs of replacement, send an email and wait for the telephone call/email rant from the customer. We send the photographic evidence and ask how it happened and (seldom) refund the card or not.
Liquid nails or gorilla glue for walls?
Hi. So I have these 3-d wood squares/shelf things. Tried to hang them on the walls with the anchors that came with it and also our own anchors but they just went straight through the wall. We live in a apt so thinking we were screwing into a patch job. So instead of repatching the wall and moving the boxes to a differnt spot we would like to cover our mess up and still put the item up with liquid nails or gorilla glue. Which would be better for glueing a less then 3 lb item to the wall. Thanks!!
Drywall anchors for towel rods and curtains never seem to stay in for more than a month. Am I just installing them incorrectly?
You're probably using the wrong kind of anchor. Those conical, plastic wedge anchors that expand when you drive the screw in are worthless for anything but the lightest static loads.(By static load I mean one that doesn't move. Curtain rods and towel bars are subject to dynamic loading.)The next step up are anchors with deep flutes that you screw into the wallboard:These will hold several times more weight than the conical anchors. But there is a limit: too much weight and you'll have a large hole in the wall.The next is a hollow wall anchor:When the screw is tightened, metal wings spread out, distributing the load across the back of the wall board. This is the minimum anchor I would consider for a towel bar or curtain rod.For even heavier loads, a toggle bolt is a better choice:Like the hollow wall anchors, the toggle bolt spreads the load over the back of the wall board, but over a greater area. The disadvantage is that they can be more difficult to install; if the screw is removed from the toggle after insertion in the wall, the toggle will be lost. Even toggle bolts have weight limits: if you use your towel bar for chin-ups, you'll probably rip gaping holes in the wallboard.The best solution, by far, is to attach the device to the framing of the wall rather than the wallboard. Usually this is done with wood screws directly into wall studs, or into wood backing that's attached to the studs