My horse wont lunge and is testing me please help!?
ok, with the catching problem, there is a simple salution but will take time but you have to do it everytime or it wont work. i have 8 horses in my pastuer at home and i live on 180 acers so it would wear me out if i had to walk all my land to find my horses so what i have done is when it is feeding time i make a loud noise to tell them to come eat. my call is a loud yow. so every time if feed i use the same call so now when i want to ride i will use my call to signal my horses to come and they come to me looking for food so i will give the horse that i want a treat and than put a lead on him/her. or at first to catch her you can hold a feed bucket so that she thinks she is beeing feed and than put a lead on her. as for as the lunging problem i agree with every one else, put her in a pin and use a lung to tap her to get her to move forward. also make sure that you are standing in the right spot. when you go to lung her stand in the middle of the pin and stand like towards her hind end. this tells her to move away from you. if you stand at the middle or front end of her than you are telling her to stop. remember horses move away from pressure. so when you stand at the hind end you are putting stress pressure on her to move forward. you do not always have to use physical pressure to make a horse move. but that is what it sounds lik is that you are not lined up properly with her hind end to tell her to move forward to lunge her. try repositioning yourself when you go to lunge her and see if it helps.
How to get heel horse to stop on her butt?
yayme had some great ideas, but i have one in addition. start at the trot, and trot in a straight line down the middle of the arena. about twenty or so feet from where you want her to stop, take your reins and ask her to give her face, but instead of asking by going straight back with the reins, go up and back. she will raise her neck just a bit and tuck her nose in, and when she does, this will shift her weight from her forehand to the hind. then ask her to stop as soon as she does this. do this repeatedly. when she gets it down, ask her to stop at the same time that you ask her to shift her weight. do this repeatedly until she stops on her butt with you raising your reins a bit. then start to not bring your reins up as much, and she'll eventually get to the point where she stops on her butt automatically. then start over at the canter. and make sure you ask her to stop as her hind feet are leaving the ground, so she can really sit down alot easier. it's all about balance, so work on shifting her weight, not just pulling her head down.
Horse freaks when a rope touches her legs?
Last week I tried tethering our new horse to a tree in the front yard to get at the grass. Didn't go well, cat jumped out of bushes and she panicked. This weekend I took her out and just held her on the rope to get some goodies. All was well until the rope got around her front leg as she was grazing. She panicked as soon as she felt that feeling and started rearing/pulling back. This time I was with her so I got it off her leg right away. She's a really mellow horse, but my kids are little and always want to lead her. I want to find a way to help her get de sensitized to this. Is this common?
How do i stop my horse dragging its feet ?
Get a few different farriers to have a look at his feet - his toes may be a little too long. If having his feet checked by a farrier uncovers nothing: Pole work is really good - makes them pick their feet up and makes them more aware of where they're putting their feet. After a while, some raised poles (one end - alternating if using as trotting poles, but make them as low as possible) will make him pick his feet up. Really getting after him and making him work rather than just sitting there will help, especially if most of the tripping happens at walk. My pony used to trip a bit because he's very lazy and has a very lazy walk - making him walk out all the time has stopped him dragging his feet (he was wearing his back feet down in the school as the sand was like sand paper on his feet - he had to have back shoes on because his feet were nearly square and tiny and we haven't gone back to just front shoes as he does more roadwork and we don't want the same happening again as his schooling work has also increased) EDIT This is a good example of raised trotting poles (alternating with which end is raised) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8fhYiKmrF...
How does horse riding work? How do you tell it to go, stop turn, jump, etc?
Riding involves interspecies communication. A rider must learn horse language, how a horse moves, thinks and communicates. A horse must learn a great deal of human language, most of it body language. Throughout perhaps 5000 years of horse/human relationships, a language has developed involving the use of the rider’s weight, legs and reins, preferred in that order by the horse. When the rider is well balanced on the horse, the rider can improve the horse’s balance and, as athletes, horses like to move well, in balance and in harmony with their riders.The rider’s weight is the greatest tool and horses learn to stop and turn from the weight. The legs ask the horse to go, but also help mold the horse to prepare him for turns and transitions.The reins, when used well, are a finger tip connection with the horse’s mouth —you can feel the horse’s tongue move through the reins, he can feel your fingers giving light aids or cues through the reins. The reins back up the other aids (weight and leg) and fine tune balance.Once the horse and rider are in balance and harmony, the weight, leg and rein signals are so small that it looks like mind reading. The rider thinks about heading to the jump. The horse feels the rider’s body prepare to jump, the horse prepares himself to jump, and the move as one thought over the jump.Of course there are many blunders along the way. Both horse and rider must be trained systematically and incrementally, so too often you see fights and mistakes, which are always forms of miscommunication.
Leg cues for a reining horse spin?
I am not sure I get what you are saying she is doing? Are you saying she is sitting back over her hocks and moving her front end around? If so that is what is suppose to do. The turn in reining is a forward movement and what they do is move their front end forward while keeping their inside back foot in a relatively stationary position. To do this they need to sit back over their hocks. This come naturally to a horse bred to rein. My foals do this when they change directions. As for the cue. It will vary a bit from trainer to trainer. However most will get the horse to start forward a stop then use their out side leg while opening up with their inside leg. Need to open the door, and rein in the direction they want then to turn. Once they start the leg comes off a bit if you leave it on through the entire maneuver the horse will start to lean on your leg but the rein stays on. Do not try and bend the horses head into that direction they should stay relatively straight all you should see in the side of their eye. The movement in your hand should only be about an inch. Then assuming that your horse actually knows how to turn you are probably cuing her too far back. Most reiners have 3 area for cues. The front one controls the shoulders the middle one controls the mid section and the back one controls the hip. Move your spur forward and use your rein not so much over as back towards your hip. If she does not know how to turn then you will need to teach it. As already said do not do sliding stops with out slide plates and skid boots on the rear and when teaching a turn you NEED to have front boots on too. They saved my stallion from a very very bad cut at one point. The boot was an SMBII and was ripped from the top of the boot all the way down. If it had not been there that would have been his leg.
Can horses gallop faster if you stand in stirrups?
Standing in the stirrups doesn't take any weight off the horse's back - after all, your weight is now totally in the stirrups, which are supported by the saddle, which is supported by the horse's back. Two major differences, though. First, the stirrups are attached closer to the pommel, so the weight is distributed more through the front part of the saddle and less through the seat part of the saddle, where the major muscles of the back lie. Second, and more importantly, your center of gravity is shifted forward over the horse's center of gravity, where he can most efficiently carry you. If you'resitting, you're behind the center of gravity, and he has to struggle to get his hind end working properly, because you're acting like a drag on his rear. This is why we do two point (standing in the stirrups and leaning way forwards) when we ride over a jump. We balance right over the center of gravity so that we don't overweight the front end when the horse is lifting off (that's in front of the center of gravity) and so that we don't drag down the back end and cause the horse to hit the jump with his hind legs (behind the center of gravity). Same with racehorses - jockeys stand in the stirrups, balanced over the center of gravity, to allow their horses to run freely with the least possible impact of their weight. Sitting in the saddle works fine for slow speeds, where the horse keeps his center of gravity further back. It's when he stretches out and gallops it's most important.
How do you stop a pony from bucking?
The first thing you need to do it to determine why the pony is bucking.It could be from discomfort, or from a physical problem such as stifle lameness. You need to rule that out with your veterinarian, as nothing else you do will be a permanent solution, if your pony is in pain; or if one of its joints cannot move properly for a split second during each stride.Bucking might be from attitude, as ponies are clever creatures, capable of dreaming up ways to get out of work, or make work more interesting. In that case, assertively getting it back on task will help, but only if your seat and hands are just as quiet when it is doing well as they were assertive in correcting it.Your pony could be bucking because, without realizing it, you might have accidentally caused it to buck. It is easy to feel surprised by the power of your pony, as it begins to move forward. A natural reaction to that surprise is for your hand(s) to come up or back for an instant. The pony feels that movement through the reins, and it can cause the pony to go forward with its hind legs in response to your cue to go forward, and stop with its front legs, in response to your hands. The result is a hump in the middle - the body position that it uses for bucking.To avoid accidentally causing your pony to buck, try grabbing a handful of mane right before you ask him to go forward. The mane will keep your hands from flying up or back when the pony responds and goes forward.If your pony bucks when you stop him, try stopping him on just one rein. Here’s how: sit down, say whoa, and lift one rein up and out so that your pony finds himself circling your inside leg. After several times around the circle, sit down, say whoa, and release the rein pressure rather suddenly. He will probably stop. But if not, just lift your rein and circle him again. Chances are when he gets a second chance to stop, he will.If your pony bucks for no reason - other than his own entertainment - you can use the same circling technique. When he ducks his head to buck, get it back up and around to one side using just one rein. He won’t be able to buck in that position, and you can send him around that circle for a few turns, then stop him and pet him for having circled well, and stopped well. Circling like that isn’t easy for the pony. If bucking always results in working hard to circle your inside leg, the pony will soon decide not to work that hard.Good luck with your pony.
Why does the front end of a car lift up while accelerating?
Every action has an opposite and equal reaction. In this case, that reaction is counter-torque. It’s also a matter of perspective.When you accelerate quickly and you have an engine/drive train that is powerful enough it will want to raise the front of the car. It’s easier to comprehend when you think of a rear wheel drive vehicle. It’s even easier when you look at how it is applied in a top fuel dragster. All of that torque that is driving the wheels to propel the vehicle forward is transferred to the axles, then to the wheels, to the tires, then to the small patch of contact between the pavement and rubber. If the friction between the patch of rubber is great enough, that will want to raise the front of the vehicle up instead of all of the power being directed straight to rotation and propelling the vehicle forward.The same thing will happen on a front wheel vehicle too, but it’s easier to form a visual image with a dragster. If you have the car jacked up in the air, you wouldn’t raise the front of the vehicle, but that initial bit of resistance with the ground and the tires results in the front of the vehicle being raised.You can also see this phenomenon in a vehicle in neutral. When a very powerful engine is revved, the counter torque of the crank shaft will cause the vehicle to twist to one side a little bit.
My horse goes back while I'm trying to teach him the spin, how can I fix it?
If your horse is going back during a spin, it means you are unduly stopping the forward motion of the horse with your hand during the movement. Unless he is shooting backward, which is an evasión of the movement and a defense. But the solution is the same in either case. You need to explain the movement to your horse so he can give you what you want. You need to think about allowing him to move forward during the movement. The spin will not be so "tight", but that is a communication issue between you and your horse. You need to gauge the tightness of the circle to stop asking when he begins to lose his desire to go forward. Big, slow and correct at the beginning is better than small and fast and incorrect. Try doing 1/2 spins or slow the exercise down and try half pirouettes (which is a slow reflection of the same movement) and then allow your horse to move forward. When he understands what you are asking you can introduce speed into the equation. Watch your hand and your weight in the reins. I see this problem usually arise when the rider is not quick and light with his hand and also legs to urge the horse to move forward.