How do i keep my corn snake from burrowing?
Well I got a corn snake 2 weeks ago, and after I let him adjust for 5 days, I decided to hold him, but I noticed he burrowed in his aspen bedding. I know snakes burrow naturally and it's normal, but I worry about him burning himself on his under tank heater. I have a reptile carpeting over the heater, then aspen bedding over the carpeting, but sometimes I find him under the carpeting, and I don't want him to burn himself. How do I keep him from burning himself of from burrowing?
How do I prevent my king snake from burrowing and burning herself on her heating pad?
I just got her and she keeps burrowing right by her heating pad. I dont want her to get burned so i turned it off. I have a heat lamp so it stays warm enough but i want to have more heat at night.
My Corn Snake Is Burrowing?
I have a corn snake that borrows and he is healthy. i also have to look for him. This is normal behavior. If it is winter, He does it to warm up. If it is summer, He does it to cool down. Corns are Ground dwelling snakes that keep safe by burrowing if they can, just like in shavings, coconut bark, and Moss. Unless she looks unhealthy, you can probobly tell when she is, all is well. As for the water, She most likely drinks at night like mine, and since she is only 4 months old any water she drinks will be unnoticed. Dont worry and just keep an eye on her. I would take the fact that she is strong enough to want to burrow as a good sign.
My corn snake has burrowed itself in its aspen and has not moved for the whole day and is not moving in the evening either. It’s pupils also seem slightly more constricted than usual. What could this mean?
Corn snakes are crepuscular (active at night, but most active around dawn/dusk), so it’s not terribly unusual for them to remain hidden and sleep during the day.If it’s not active at night, the most likely possibility is that it is preparing to shed. When snakes are getting ready to shed their skin, they generally hide and sleep until the old skin is ready to come off — pre-shedding is very uncomfortable for reptiles and some people compare it to being sick with the flu. If you catch your snake about a week before shedding, you will see that its eyes have temporarily turned milky blue and cloudy.If your corn snake is new, then this hiding behavior is part of adjusting to its new environment, and it may take a couple weeks for it to become more active.As for the constricted pupils, this is normal. Corn snakes’ pupils constrict and dilate in response to how much light there is. In low light conditions the pupils will expand/dilate, while in bright light they will constrict significantly. No cause for concern there unless they remain dilated even in bright light or stay slitted in darkness, which nonresponse is a sign of neurological damage.
Is my corn snake cage too hot?
92 is too high. Warm side temps should be no higher than 85. Too hot and you're risking ending up with regurgitation. You should always have a thermostat regulating the temperature of the heat mat as they can burrow under the substrate, lay directly on the mat and get burned. If the substrate is 92, you can be sure the heat mat is over 100 degrees at the glass. Get it regulated. I've seen too many snakes with serious burns from unregulated heat sources.
Side of the tank heating pad for corn snakes?
You want him to sit on the heat pad - it's good for digestion and your snake is also smart enough to thermoregulate his own temps as long as you provide the proper warm side - cold side. However, you NEED a thermostat. Not a thermometer to test the temps...a thermostat, which your heat mat will plug into and it will regulate it and stop it from getting too hot. I set mine for 90 degrees, with a nighttime drop of 8 degrees. I have ball pythons mostly though so you'll want yours a little cooler. Many many Years ago I used a heat mat without a thermostat and I put my hand in the enclosure one day to feel and almost burnt myself. It was sooooo hot. I tested it with my temp gun and it was 127 degrees!! Hot enough to cook my snake! I was using a plastic enclosure and the mat jad literally burnt a hole theough the bottom of it. Obviously ive never used UTH's without a thermostat again - You live you learn and I was lucky that my snake was smarter than I was and moved to his cool side. Many times a snake won't know it's too hot until they've actually taken a serious burn so you need a thermostat. The UTH is actually the best form of heating so you're on the right track. Just make sure it's a safe temp and then you can let your snake sit on the heat mat side all day if he so desires. All the best of luck..
Why does my corn snake hide from me?
You are much larger and stronger than your corn snake. You move quickly, and your (relatively) heavy body creates massive vibrations through the ground when you walk. By instinct, this makes your corn snake perceive you as a predator.You can help it become more comfortable with your presence by 1) making sure that its enclosure is secure and provides lots of hiding spots and 2) creating positive interactions between you and the snake.Corn snakes, while not as secretive as ball pythons, still need a choice of places to hide in their enclosure. This goes beyond just “warm” and “cool” hide. Foliage to hide amongst in climbing branches, dry leaves on the ground to burrow under, etc. Make the enclosure complicated to provide opportunities for the snake to watch its surroundings without revealing itself. (For more ideas, go here: Corn Snake Accessories | Decorating Your Corn Snake's Terrarium)Snakes may not be as intelligent as humans or even dogs, but they are capable of making associations with different stimuli. For example, if you tap the enclosure glass every time before feeding (and no other time), the snake will learn that tapping vibrations mean food is near. If you gently tap the snake’s body with a snake hook or paper towel roll before handling, the snake will learn that quick, light pressure means it is about to be picked up. When it is allowed to watch you from the security of its enclosure and hides without getting hurt, it learns that the human is nothing to worry about. So when it doesn’t get hurt and is allowed to explore relatively freely during handling time, it learns that being handled (and the associated human) are not things to be feared.This learning process is faster with some snakes and slower with others. Be patient, be consistent, be gentle, and eventually your snake will become more comfortable with your presence in its life.
How big should an adult corn snake's enclosure be?
I’m going to give a slightly different answer to the others here, because there are so many different combinations of dimensions and enclosure types that giving information in inches or centimeters might not be the best way to think about it.An adult corn snake’s enclosure should be large enough that the snake can display the full range of its behaviours - including thermoregulation, stretching out fully without having to double back on itself, and climbing. For a small adult corn - some don’t get much bigger than three and a half to four feet long - that might be a 3′ x 18″ x 18″ enclosure with a basking spot at one end, some branches to climb on affixed to the walls, and multiple hiding places throughout the enclosure.For a larger adult corn or ratsnake, you might want or need a 4′ x 18″ x 18″ or even a 5′ x 2′ x 2′ to provide enough room to stretch out properly. The amount of environmental enrichment and number of hides is as important as the cage size, though - giving a slightly smaller cage with shelves, branches and other opportunities to move around and utilise the space is better than giving an enormous cage with mostly empty airspace that the snake cannot make use of.
What is the BEST natural substrate for a corn snake?
What is the BEST natural substrate for a corn snake? And something that wont mold easily and something that holds heat well... experienced answers please.. thank you
What are some tips for finding or trapping my son's pet corn snake that accidentally was let loose in our apartment?
I have been through this many times. If you are lucky the snake will still be in the home. First of all, keep all windows and exits closed in the home as it will escape. After that there are several methods I have used that have worked. One, which has proven to be most successful, is to keep a live mouse in a cage with an opening in the top. Be sure there is some bedding in the cage. Eventually, the snake will get hungry and go into the cage, eat the mouse, and burrow under the bedding. If the mouse is gone, chances are the snake is in the bedding. There is also the isolation method where you put mothballs in all closets and under appliances and furniture in order to isolate the areas the snake may be.Bear in mind: corn snakes need to bask in UV light. Mornings when the warm sunlight comes through the window, the snake will seek out that sunlight. They are climbers so they may curl up in a lamp shade or in a vent. They are cold blooded, they need warmth from an external source. Behind the fridge or near the water heater would be a good place to check. They are predators, if you have small mammals as pets, expect them to go missing soon. They are shy. They hide and are not going to slither across the living room floor and show themselves. They burrow. Check laundry piles, piles of papers or even shoes. Cabinets and drawers serve as shelters for them as well.Good luck! If you do not find it, believe it is not dead. Snakes are slick, they will escape. But if you keep your doors closed and windows shut and try the mouse bait trap, you are very likely to find it.