What are some symptoms of a bad idle air control sensor?
Idle air control valves open to allow more air to "leak" into the intake, raising the engine rpms, or close when not needed. When your AC compressor kicks in or power steering is activated as you suddenly turn the steering wheel, the sudden drag on the drive belt will bog down the engine. These systems send a signal to the engine computer telling it they are active and it then signals the IAC valve to open, which increases the engine speed. Without this occurring, the engine could struggle, or die. The IAC valve can cause weird idle issues, mess with throttle functionality or cause the car to die. Sometimes they fail, get stuck or just get all carboned up. Sometimes people have success at cleaning them, but generally it is best to replace them when bad. Idle issues and even problems with the IAC valve may not be due to the IAC valve being bad itself. An idle issue does not mean the IAC valve is bad. It is best to pay close attention to how the vehicle is acting, and then communicate that clearly and as completely as possible to your mechanic. Intermittent problems can be very hard to diagnose. Details will help. Knowing more about the vehicle in question and its symptoms (in detail) will also help in understanding more about what it is doing.
How do I change the temperature control from Celsius to Fahrenheit?
I have a Hyundai Sonata 2003. My car has digital temperature control and it was using F, but after my car was worked on and the battery unplugged it switched to C. I read my car manual, it says nothing about this. I had the work done by a good friend who's a former mechanic, so he knew how to fix my car but not about changing the temperature controls and I don't want to have to take it to the dealer if I can help it. Anyone know the solution here? I tried that suggestion about the amb button, it didn't work.
Why is my car's air conditioner taking so long to cool?
Refrigerant is one part of a refrigerant cycle. The others are compression, expansion, and radiation. The refrigerant is compressed by a belt driven compressor. It becomes a liquid. Heat is drawn off of it. It’s expanded (throttled) and allowed to turn back into a gas. This chills it. The chilled gas is run by a heat exchanger somewhere in your dash air system. The warmed refrigerant is cycled back, re-compressed, extra heat is radiated off, end the cycle continues.When you start the AC, you’re not just cooling air. You’re also chilling the metal or other materials of the coolant and heat exchanger, which has more thermal mass than the gas or the air going through on opposite sides of the exchanger. In some cars, this will seem more or less instantaneous when you turn on the AC. In other cases, it can take a while.Mechanically speaking, you have topped off the refrigerant, presumably to the correct amount (you can have too much refrigerant as well as too little, so the person doing the top-off should be using a proper set of gauges to make sure there’s the correct amount) The compressor needs to have mechanical drive, so if the belt for the compressor is worn, or loose, this will slow the process. There is usually a clutch in the compressor, so that the pulley on the AC compressor will spin free when you’re not running the AC, reducing engine load. If the clutch is in the process of failing, you may not be getting full (or any) mechanical coupling of the belt drive to the compressor axis for a bit - some clutches may be a bit slippery until some part warms up a bit and the surfaces catch better.If you have a leak, it’d show in keeping needing to add refrigerant. There could also be some sort of blockage / kink in a line that keeps the refrigerant from circulating properly. Depending on the design of the heat exchanger in the dash, it might have common heat-exchanger real estate with the heater, which will normally divert hot coolant through a heat exchanger for when you want warmer air. If there is any issue with if/whether the heater may be all the way off, it may be that the AC is needing some time to chill off the thermal mass of the coolant there.
How do I fix my car having a rough idle after replacing the alternator?
You're right to assume that something else going on. Because it is!Personally I'd check to see if the alternator is providing the right amount of voltage. it's not impossible to get the wrong part installed. and when I say that, I don't necessarily mean you chose the wrong part, but during the assembly line a part they grabbed while assembling the alternator could have been or of spec or something. Check the grounds. A lot of the time, over years of use a little sand blasting or sand papering of the hookups does help. while running the engine, disconnect the battery. A poorly performing battery can drag the entire system down. check to make sure your AC ain't causin' problems too. make sure the clutch is spinning or not spinning when not being used. double check the water pump to see if it was messed up. lastly check all your ignition wiring too. depending on the model year and brand, it might be chatty with obd2. if it's carbureted, obviously you won't get any feedback. if it is obd2, there might be information in there that can give you an idea of what's going on. so get a reader and check. also with modern fi engines, they'll run rough after a battery removal for a while. make sure your fuel economy hasn't been affected, if it has, it's a clear indication that something is wrong.
My comp freezes so I have to exit out and it says program not responding or it says Java(TM) Fatal error?
What should I do I have tones of anti virus things in this computer and its a brand new Windows XP Dimension E510 a lot of times the screen freezes and I try to exit out is says Program Error or if I try to do something on Java it says Java(TM) Error ive tried downloading it but it freezes up and it has the Program Not Responding thing on again I Dont know whats wrong with this thing but I know virus protection wont work because I have all of those things
How do you fix a power window that won't go up?
OK, I'm the expert on this one since this is all we do. Specifics are at Power Window Repair Tampa or you are welcome to ask here. In general,If you hear a click as you depress the switch down but no click as you press the switch to go up it might be the actual multi button window switch. Usually if one switch is bad neither switch works.If you hear a click in both directions it might be the window motor. Some can be changed alone, some require you to change the entire assembly (with the regulator). If you want to get the window back up try this. Start the vehicle, open the door, with one finger on the button to put the window up slam the door closed with your other hand. Might get the window working again for a time.If you hear a crunching, grinding sound your regulator (the cables that pull the glass up and down on a metal cross bracket) is usually broken. If you can get the door panel off you can probably push the glass up by hand. If you encounter resistance it is ok to cut the metal cables (never cut an electrical wire) as your get new cables with the new regulator.NEVER try to pull the glass up with a pair of pliers. Glass is pretty strong stuff but much like a diamond can be shattered.To answer your question as to how to repair a specific window would need to know year, make, and model. A youtube search will uncover videos of how to.
Need help used ECM i used to my bad one created new problems?
that's probably a bad ecm you put on it you can try having the trouble codes cleared off of it and see if that helps it,but i doubt that it will ,that ecm may have a bad module in it,you may have to try another one or get a rebuilt one for it,i have ran across that problem before,that's the chance you take with a used one,usually their good,but occasionally you do get a bad one,good luck with getting it straitened out.