Can a clogged catalytic converter unclog itself?
Well, it can happen that they will de-clog on their own, but usually need a helping hand. If it is utterly blocked, then dismantling and manually cleaning is the only solution.If the ceramic material inside is melted, then change it.Most modern Cats are stuffed with a ceramic honeycomb structure, unlike the older ones that had complex filters with platinum wool amongst other stuff inside them.One of the reasons they get clogged is people lugging around in fifth gear making lots of soot which clogs the honeycomb.A faulty EGR valve (gas recirculation) will do the trick as well.Faulty injection, allowing to much fuel to come through the exhaust can cause the honeycomb to melt when it starts burning the fuel... (replacement)But you can clear a blocked (not 100% blocked) converter by getting it hot enough to make it finish what it is supposed to do.The garages here in France have a naughty technique, they hoist the car up on lift with the motor going flat out, and stand underneath it holding a fire extuinguisher, just in case it sets fire to the car, or any flames from the now burning soot comes blasting out of the rear.It is a dangerous technique in my opinion, and not good for the engine, but it works. I don't suppose it works everytime either.So if you have a CAT that is partially blocked because you mooch around in fifth gear or have bad driving habits, you could try driving the vehicle hard enough to heat the CAT as it should be, where usually it can clear itself.So , if it is soot build up, there is hope for you, to unclog it without taking it off the vehicle and or changing it, if it is hard blocked with mineral deposits, unlikely. If it is melted, its got to be changed.
Can I put a V6 engine into a 4-cylinder car?
If the car was originally delivered with both types of engines, it might not even be very hard.There are some special considerations though. The first generation of Saab 9–5 was delivered with three choices of engine (I’m leaving out the diesel engines, they shouldn’t be in cars anyway), a 2.0t I4, a 2.3t I4, and a 3.0t V6. The 3.0t was only delivered with an automatic transmission, while the smaller engines were delivered with both types. Converting a 9–5 2.0 manual to a 3.0 automatic is probably going to be more work than converting a 2.0 automatic to 3.0 automatic.Then, on the other hand, you might achieve your goals in much easier ways than complete engine swaps, depending on what those goals are. As original, the 2.0t has 150 hp and 240 Nm, while the 3.0t has 200 hp and 310 Nm. If the goal is to increase power and torque, a simple software upgrade to the 2.0t will give you 210 hp and 320 Nm, meaning you get more power and torque than the 3.0t, while retaining the better fuel economy of the 2.0t. Of course, the 3.0t could also be software upgraded, but it is a very strange engine that is very hard to get much extra power from, so you’ll probably increase the power only from 200 to 220 hp. If you want more power than a simple software upgrade will give the 2.0t, changing to a bigger turbo and more open exhaust can make that little engine yield much more power than the weird 3.0t could ever hope for. Strangely, the 2.3t was sold completely original in a version with 260 hp and 350 Nm, noticeably more than the original 3.0t, so the Saab 9–5 was faster with the strongest type of original 4-cylinder engine than it was with the V6.However, if your goal is smoothness rather than outright power, the V6 would probably win every time.
Poor gas mileage on my chevy s10?
Are you asking a question? If so, did one of these other posters answer it? I looks like you are saying that your chevy is getting poor gas mileage or you are asking if it is getting poor gas mileage or you wonder how you would know if your s-10 is getting poor gas mileage. All but one of these questions has been answered by the above so you need only look at their answers, anecdotal information but all of them true and accurate within the scope of the vagarity of the question. Jack starts off with the basics to getting good mileage. --good start, covers lots of ground. Racinggirlsmokesem goes a little deeper along the same line with some good information about fuel air mixture mechanics. --again good start but answering which unasked question? gvaporcarb gives you some advice from experience about how he fixed his problem. --but you didn't say you had a problem. bobweb goes another route interpreting your question to read that you don't know what mileage you're getting and explains to you how to get it. (very informative by the way) --but you didn't say that you didn't know what your mileage was. I'll just add to the confusion...What question are you asking? Your chevy s10 is not going to get much better than poor gas mileage no matter what you do to it (and it still be an s10...) Maybe that answered your question? I'll put in a guess to what you're asking. You want to know if the mileage you're getting is poor or not. Depending on what you're comparing it to it probably is pretty poor, not due to the age of the vehicle, the number of cylinders you have or the automatic transmission but due to the fact that it wasn't designed to get superlative mileage. It was designed to haul stuff. Can you make it get great mileage? Probably not. Best you can do is to hover around the epa ratings or so. As they say YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary). Good luck with your truck. Although trucks have an inherent lack of aerodynamic excellence in their design priorities they can be a pleasure to own and operate. You will pay for this pleasure when you visit the local gasoline vendors. If you want to fly fast, be a falcon, if you want to fly far, be a goose. Only a turkey thinks he can do both at the same time.
What could code PO440 mean?
It could be the purge valve for the charcoal canister at the front of the engine compartment, the charcoal cannister needs to be replaced, or the solenoid is faulty.