VSC light and check engine light on our Lexus?
VSC stands for Vehicle Stability Control. It's a program that helps regulate your shocks, and brakes during emergency maneuvers. It comes on when the computer detects some kind of problem. The check engine light coming on makes sense also. Yes, it's perfectly safe to drive with the lights on, provided the check engine light isn't something more serious to your actual engine. You can take it to the dealer or almost any Auto Parts store and have them check the Codes that it's throwing. That will tell you what the problem is and if you can be driving it or not. Until you know what the Computer is saying it's impossible to speculate on what the cause could be. Finding out what the codes are is easy and quick. Getting it fixed could be a whole different story. Could be as simple and quick as changing a shock, to more diagnostic work. Get it in, and have the codes checked as soon as you can and then depending on that go from there. Good luck! The VSC system that controls your brakes, only distributes a certain amount of force to the rear wheels, and modulates it. If there's a malfunction it goes into safe mode and it's like driving a Car/SUV without VSC. So to anyone who thinks it's not ok to drive with a VSC light on obviously knows nothing about Cars. Because it is perfectly safe to drive with it on. We've had Cars and SUV's for years before VSC came along. You just have to be smarter than the Car you are driving.
How much would it cost to replace a rear bumper on a 2008 honda civic?
Roughly $200-$300 for the bumper plus maybe $150-$300 to paint it. Depends on where you get the parts and where you get it painted.
Is leaking coolant an expensive fix?
Thanks for the A2A.Like Daniel Crain and Kevin Spinks, I sometimes wonder if Quora questions need a standard answer that starts with: 'It depends...!'Fact is, it could (hopefully...) be as simple as tightening something. A hose clamp. A bleed valve. In other words, a zero cost fix.But that is probably being over-optimistic.It depends where the leak is. I've listed a couple of extremes above, the other extreme might be cracked or porous head(s), block, cylinder liners... etc. That will be expensive to fix, in some case, a replacement engine might be required.However, before panicking because of an unhelpful Quora answer, it'd be best to get it to a shop or a motorhead friend to work out why and where coolant is leaking.If the leak can be seen, you're well on the way to solving the issue.If the leak can't be seen, here's a few questions:How is the engine running? Does it overheat? (If yes, stop using it!).Any water in the engine oil? (If yes, you really must stop using it!!)How often do you need to top-up the coolant? Are the any other symptoms? (Windows misting, heater not working, damp carpets, a sweet, sickly smell....!).The answers to these questions can all aid in diagnosing the problem.Still no luck? Get a 'sniffer' test done. This tests the coolant for combustion products and can confirm whether or not the head gasket has blown. (It's done using a Turkey baster type thing & some chemicals that change colour if there are combustion products in the coolant).Then, there are tests which involve pressurising the cooling system, the aim here being to force coolant out through the leak whilst the engine is cold.TL;DR: Yes it can be expensive, but not always. It depends...!Good luck!
2002 Lexus ES300 with Check Engine Light on. Throttle Position Sensor?
I have a 2002 Lexus ES300. The car had been riding fine and NO issues and about a month ago I noticed that from time to time, it would "hiccup" during the acceleration. Kinda jerking forward a bit, but still moving with the acceleration. It doesn't do it every time and so I figured it was something like poor gas or something to that effect. I didn't think it was a major issue, but this morning, as I was driving, I noticed that my acceleration was very sluggish---especially on low speeds. At one point, I even held the pedal to the metal and the car was not going fast at all. The RPMs were constant and only gradually increased as the car, eventually, would build up speed. Then, my check engine light came on. I took the car to get it read and I'm coming back with a code of P2121 for a throttle/pedal position sensor. The guys at Autozone even showed me exactly where the part is located on my vehicle. The part itself is ranging from about $50-$100. I found a brand new one by Beck Arnley on partsgeek.com for $60. My question is---has anyone else heard of this problem? How much should I expect to pay in labor for this type of repair? I've NEVER had any issues with my Lexus and the check engine light has me a bit worried...
Is it true if the timing belt on a Lexus IS200 breaks you have to replace the engine?
Here is how to tell, If you go to start the car and the motor spins (it will spin pretty fast) than it's a non-interference motor and you can go get the timing belt changed and there will be no damage to the motor. If it just starter just clicks and the engine doesn't turn than its an interference motor and you have to get another motor put in cause the damage was done when the belt snapped, or repair the damage to the old one. Repair is not cost effective just to let you know. Engine damage has nothing to do with the water pump. Its the clearance between the valves when there fully open to the piston when its at top dead center. If they touch than its an interference motor and the motor can't turn over. If they miss each other (non-interference) than the pistons (bottom end) will still turn freely while trying to start the car. Good Luck Sir
Is it very difficult for a DIY'er to replace the timing belt/water pump on a 2005 Lexus IS300?
Can you do it? Of course! How easy can you do it? Well... that's a whole different story. haha. 1st and foremost, you WILL NOT bend any valves or destroy your engine if you happen to put it back together some teeth off. Your engine is a non-interference!!! It just wont run very well if at all until its back in time. 2ndly, set aside a good chunk of your day since this'll be your first time. Book time for this job is 3.5hrs for the Timing Belt and an additional 2.5hrs for the Waterpump. Expect to be ALOT slower when doing this sorta thing without a lift and without having done it before. As for me, unless the waterpump is leaking, I would leave it until the second time the timing belt is required (180K) as this is usually around the time it begins to fail anyway, and the addition of the water pump bumps the difficultly of this job up a notch. This is also my recommendations on front seals for your engine too, unless leaking wait till around 180k miles Also make sure you have the following (before) starting, bench vise and small metal pin for the Timing belt tensionor, a cam gear holder for the removal of the cam gears (will be needed for the waterpump part, since a backing plate covers the pump slightly and is secured behind the cam gears.) and some swivel sockets ie: 10mm 12mm and 14mm (they're very handy on this job). And by a Hayne's or Chilton's repair manual for your vehicle as this will have pictorial guides and tips to assist along the way (and is a very big help for your first time on alot of repairs, atleast for me) Last but not least I would recommend strongly getting toyota/lexus parts as parts like the Timing Belt come marked for easy timing (it's unmarked when bought aftermarket). I would suggest going to lexus and getting prices and part numbers and than going to a toyota dealer and having them compare with their parts/prices, most times the same part will be a fraction of the cost! (also good to check with the Toyota Dealer on most repairs as well, as we can do all the same repairs are just as certified and don't charge as much as our Lexus counterparts)
Jetta GLI or Lexus IS300 - New Car Decision?
I think 100k miles in a 6-almost 7 year old car is too high. I'm not all up on the Lexus world. My mother has an 08 Jetta, I've spent some time behind the wheel but not much. I can tell you compared to my Mk3 her brakes are a whole helluva lot more sensitive. She's got the 2.5l engine, it's pretty quick, nothing crazy. It's run strong with no problems since she got it in 08. IIRC, the GLI in 2005 is actually a Mk4 even though the Mk5s started rolling out that same year. The engine should be a 2.0t mated to a six speed manual. The engine is pretty good although it suffers from some worse than average turbo lag. It corners at speed...alright, if you want your DD to be more fun to drive you'll want to invest in some sort of aftermarket suspension. Overall, the car will be a nice DD, on the maintenance side of things, you WILL be spending more money than you would with the Lexus if you want to do thing right. VWs don't like Autozone/Pep Boys/Advance/Napa/O'Reily brand parts. Just spend the extra money getting the OEM part, you'll be sorry otherwise. Why don't you just Google "2005 Jetta GLI reviews" you'll get more answers a whole helluva lot quicker.