Silverado overheating issue?
2004 Silverado 1500 RWD - 187559 miles Replaced a bad thermostat few months back. Later I got a MIL throwing codes P0332 Bank 2 Knock Sensor Low Circuit, and a P1258 Engine Overtemp Protection Active. While the Check Engine light turned off a few weeks ago, I know the issue still continues. Engine is should post to operate properly at 210F, the halfway point of the temperature gauge. While idling, the truck runs properly, but when driving it begins overheating towards the danger zone of 260F. When I stop and resume idling again, the temperature returns to normal operating temperature. When I keep above 50 mph or higher the temp gauge remains at the third quarter point of 235F or a little lower on the temp gauge (depending how fast I'm going, faster the better). Driving between 10 and 45 mph risks overheating the engine. I believe it is my fan clutch finally giving out, but I want to be certain before I start working on my truck. Don't want to misdiagnose the wrong components and spend unnecessary money.
HELP! 1998 Chevy Malibu is OVERHEATING? Is the car driveable?
My 1998 Chevy Malibu is overheating. When I put on the heater, to bring down the temperature, it blows COLD air. I recently replaced the water pump, other small hoses, etc, bought a new battery, and the engine was rebuilt. The old engine was MUCH better. No problems whatsoever with overheating. The car is literally EATING antifreeze, but I don't see where all of it is spilling. No constant spots in the garage. I am thinking that I might try to replace the RADIATOR cap tomorrow, but is this the sign of a bigger problem? And my biggest problems, a SAFETY concern, as I ride around two small children with me: How long, can I just put the HEATER on to keep the temperature at normal levels?
Problem with Drive Shaft. Chevy Silverado 1999?
a constant humming noise can be anything from a bad tire,axle bearing,rear end carrier bearing or gear, pinion bearing,universal joint,drive shaft out of balance,center support bearing,or tail shaft bearing in Your transmission, even a bad transmission mount. ...only way to tell for sure is to lift it on a rack & listen to isolate the general area...if it,s a balance issue or bad universal joint it will be easy to pick it out...if it's a bearing you can find it using a mechanic,s stethoscope. a bad tire or wheel weight will be evident because it will shake/vibrate...did I mention your vehicle must be running & in drive & brought up to the point where it hums,s or vibrate,s the most? that's the best way to find/diagnosis your problem. take it to a service facility / mechanic that you trust...I know that can be rare..finding someone you can trust...but there are a few out there...good luck! edit...check your drive shaft..there should be a small metal weight [ put on when manufactured] to balance it...it may have come off..look for a small rectangular spot where it was...will be off colored....also consider a bad radial tire...when the ply's seperate [ inside] it will humm if not too severe & will eventually start to vibrate or shake as it become,s worse....a road trip just might cause it to fail...best of luck!
Heater problem 04 silverado?
I take it you're saying the HVAC blows warm air as the motor heats up and then starts to blow cool air. I would first look at the motor's cooling system to ensure it's full of coolant and there are no leaks. If that looks okay, I would replace the thermostat as it is very cheap and easy to do. Recheck your heater after that. If it is still the same, you have a control problem that cannot be diagnosed over a medium like this. You need to take it into a shop.
What does it mean if there's oil in my radiator?
Means you have a leak between the oil system and the cooling system. Probably means you also have coolant antifreeze in your oil... check the dipstick for water contamination. That's a worse problem.This is bad and is a sign that the walls between the coolant and lubrication system have corroded through (from depleted coolant - too old) or your engine block is cracked from freezing or severe overheating. Both oil and coolant travel through passageways in the block and the walls between them can be thin. Another possibility is a head gasket failure.This is not a totally uncommon ocurrence I have heard, and to fix Head gasket is not too bad but the corrosion or cracked block will likely be expensive. Continuing to drive this way will eventually destroy the engine totally (it's not that far from there now, even though it may be running). The watery oil will foam and be ineffective. the metal parts will rust and eventually the engine will seize as the hole gets bigger and the leak worse.
WHY does my 1999 international 4900 have an overheating problem?
When you drive... your putting more stress on the engine, and it gets hotter. There's several reasons why it may over heat. Low coolant / coolant leak Bad thermostat - Most Common Issues w/ 4700 & 4900 Restricted radiator Defective water pump Defective fan clutch (is your truck air brake?) An so on... You need to have it looked at, it will only get worse... - Good Luck!
Changing thermostat on 1999 Chevy Lumina?
is that a 3.1 V-6? remove the air intake duct from your throttle body. next, remove the wire connectors from your throttle body and remove the throttle cables. remove the 2 - 13mm bolts securing the throttle body to the upper intake. after removal of the throttle body, the thermostat housing is just below it, right inside the exhaust crossover. there are 2 - 13mm bolts holding it in. the top one is easy with a box end wrench. do now remove the bottom bolt all the way, back it out enough to remove the therm housing. the housing is slotted so it slides over the bolt. install a new thermostat and top off the coolant. bleed the air out and you should be good to go
Truck overheats once in a while with new thermostat?
You say "it only overheats when its low on water, and the coolant never goes down.." I don't quite understand. Your level should remain constant. Coolant never goes down, but yet you are adding water? You shouldn't be adding water, unless your coolant level went down. When you drain coolant, you let air into the system...you then have to run the engine, with the cap off and try not to let it boil out...but it will let the air out of the system, that is trapped inside the hoses and engine. Once the water starts moving, the air will come out, and the level will drop, because the air was keeping the level up....let it run like that for a few minutes, and then, add water. Usually, though, the reservoir will go down on its own, even if you do not burp it, and then you just add more coolant to the reservoir. Keep it between the low mark and the high mark, judging by the temperature of the engine. Low is for cold engine...keep the coolant at that level, if the engine is cold, like when you get ready to start it and it has not been run. If the engine is hot, the level will rise on its own, and be up around the High mark. What happens, is that water expands when hot and so it takes up more room. And the water (coolant) pressure then pushes open the radiator cap and the coolant flows into the reservoir. this prevents if from spilling on the ground. Once the engine cools down, the engine coolant contracts, (shrinks ) and it creates a vacuum, which then causes the cap to open again, the it pulls in coolant from the reservoir, under vacuum. This keeps the level in the radiator at all times. So always just add to the reservoir and it will self adjust. If it is leaking and losing coolant, it could be what the mechanic said. Check the reservoir, for cracks in the plastic bottle....many times, it will crack and leak out, but usually under the bottle, and it is hard to see...so the level drops, and you then have to keep replacing it. I have seen a few vehicles do that. So look for signs of leaks, UNDER the reservoir. Look for leaks on hose connections, to the radiator, to the motor, and so on.