How do you convert an .ai file into a .psd with editable layers?
As Raymond Lee replied previously, you can export AI to PSD and retain the layers but there are several caveats to this.All layers will be rasterized. Paths will not be exported.You cannot transform (i.e. scale, rotate, shear, etc.) layers without suffering loss of quality.Transparency and layer modes (i.e. screen, multiply, overlay, etc.) in Photoshop are limited to the layer level. In Illustrator they are unlimited. Meaning you can have several different layer modes within the same layer, and even within the same object. Exporting to PSD will export a composite of this layer in the Normal mode.To get around these imitations I copy each entire layer, one at a time, and paste them into a PSD document as smart objects. (For this to be successful, I draw an unpainted rectangle the same size as the artboard and copy it with each layer. This keeps all the items in the same relative position to each other as they were in your AI file). As smart objects, you can always edit them in Illustrator by double clicking on the thumbnail in the Layers palette. Doing this will open original vector contents of that layer in Illustrator. When you're done just close the file and click save when prompted. Back in Photoshop your smart object will be updated to reflect the changes you just made.As smart objects, you can scale them up or down, rotate and shear without losing any image quality because that layer is re-rasterized from the vector data automatically.Transparency and layer modes (also known as transfer modes) are still tricky. I always try to keep objects' opacity at 100% and in the "Normal" mode when working in Illustrator and assign those attributes in Photoshop as needed. This requires that objects using different opacity and modes are put on different layers to begin with. So for example, if you have the fill of an object set to 60% opacity and multiply, but the stroke is 100% opacity and normal, you'll have to duplicate that object onto two layers with the fill information on one layer and the stroke information on the other. I know this sounds complicated but it really becomes intuitive once you get used to working this way. This method is really useful because you have the best of both Illustrator and Photoshop to work with at any given time.
Adobe Illustrator: Is there any (Ai) eps file viewer for windows?
The long answer is no.AI does not equal EPS anymore. The current AI file format can only be viewed with Illustrator. In case there is a PDF embedded into the AI file, then you can also use Acrobat to view it. Technically the PDF can be opened with other PDF viewers, practically you can’t always rely on what you see.About AI and PDF files:About EPS files: Creative Pipeline: The ACP BlogFor EPS files there are a couple of Windows viewers. What's an EPS File and How Do You Open One?
Can anyone help me to convert an image file into a .dst format (Embroidry)?
That’s a tricky question, as the act of creating a file for embroidery is widely called ‘digitizing’ and it’s not a conversion process, like one might do say to take an image from one raster format (bmp) to another raster format (jpg). Automatic conversion, even in the best software suites, is fundamentally flawed as so much of what makes for quality embroidery can’t be seen in the source image. It is an art of interpretation.When an embroidery digitizer creates a file for embroidery, he or she draws objects atop a guide image that are then filled with stitches; each design is usually comprised of hundreds of these shapes, and each shape is given a set of variables by the digitizer, including stitch type, length, angle, and ‘density’ ( a measure of how close together the stitches need to be). Moreover, the digitizer takes into account the distortion created in fabric when it is embroidered, altering the shapes so that they are true to the image that the digitizer is interpreting when the stitching is finished. A digitizer also makes adjustments for color, contrast, texture of the ground material, and adjustments based on the limitations of embroidery and the finished size of the embroidered piece.If that weren't enough, embroidery is fundamentally a 3D art form, and the best embroidery digitizers recreate your 2D image with 3D texture to make the most of the dimension thread can provide- often creating elements that may not even exist or be visible in the original art, as seen above.For more information on embroidery digitizing, please check out this post at Mr X Stitch explaining the science and art of programming a design for machine embroidery. Ghost in the Embroidery Machine - Embroidery Digitizing: The Science and the ArtIn short, though someone might decide to digitize a design for you, they will be interpreting your image and programming a sequential file that determines the stitch types, lengths, and angles in hundreds of elements in a way that an embroidery machine can efficiently and safely execute, while making artistic choices and minding the technical needs of your materials and the size of your application. They won’t be converting anything. :)
What is your way of naming the files so that it doesn't end being final.PSD, finalfinal.PSD, latestfinal.PSD or reallyfinal.PSD?
This is an awesome question. Here’s how I go about it. Almost every project will have revisions. But before we get to the .psd naming I usually just group the completed layers into one folder and then make a copy and then work on the copy for revisions. This way you have all your files in one .psd. No need to make multiple files unless you just really want to. If you do make multiple files I follow this pattern below by adding consecutive numbers next to the name so the name with the highest number was the one worked on last.file.psd (1st completed file)file1.psd (2nd completed file)file2.psd (3rd completed file)file3.psd (4th completed file)etcBut like I said I usually wouldn’t do this for .psd because you can just group them inside one .psd file. If you want to do it like the above mentioned you’ll end up with all these files in a folder somewhere. Make a folder called “extra” and dumb all extra files besides the actual final file so you can easily see it for next time. I usually always create a .jpg of the .psd file so I can quickly look at what the .psd is without opening it. I always follow the above mentioned pattern for .jpg or whatever the format is after I save .psd file. I’ll give an example of how I do it all below.Project:fileproject.psd (all revisions are saved in this one file. I would just group the first finished product (hide it and lock it probably so you don’t mess it up), make a copy of the first one and then continue to make changes to the copy and repeat this process.fileproject.jpgfileproject1.jpgfileproject2.jpgfileproject3.jpgfileproject4.jpg
What does rasterizing a layer do in Photoshop?
Rasterizing a layer is a very useful and essential feature which Adobe Photoshop provides. In order to understand what rasterizing a layer do in Photoshop you must know what is a smart object. Smart Objects are layers that contain image data from raster or vector images, it is an embedded file which preserve an image's source content with all its original characteristics, enabling you to perform nondestructive (allows only few editings that do not affect the originality of the image) editing to the layer.When any image is imported in Photoshop, the layer of that image in layer panel comes with a small thumbnail on it, something like this:which signifies that it is a smart object which do not allows most of the editings except few as it is an embedded file and links with image's source content. By Rasterizing this layer you break the link between the image's source content and the image itself, making it a raster image which allows all types of editing. Make sure the thumbnail is now vanished. Now you are ready to go, create what your creative mind can think of.
Adobe Photoshop: Is a PSD file good enough for printing?
As far as I know you can save it as "PDF for print" in photoshop. You can edit settings according to your requirements too.You can also save it in "TIFF" format which is also acceptable for printing.
What are the ways you can make a JPEG image's background transparent in Adobe Illustrator CS6?
You cannot make a Jpeg image with a transparent background, but you can place a Jpeg image (either embedded or linked) into Illustrator and mask the image so that you eliminate the background and can place the image against other objects.There are two ways to mask an image in Illustrator. The first is to draw a clipping path around the area you want to be visible, then select that path and and the image you want to mask (make sure the path is in front) and select Object > Clipping Path > Make.The second method is a little less intuitive but it involves the transparency palette. You can select your image and the click “Make Mask”, then you will need to click on the mask thumbnail to work in the mask mode. This is tricky because you are working with the mask, but you don’t actually see the mask itself, only the effect it has on the object being masked. The good thing about this method is that you can have soft edges and varying degrees of transparency to your mask, but many of these do not carry over into PDFs if that is what your output is.Ultimately, you’ll need to export your image back to some format that supports a transparent background. Jpeg does not. You can export to PNG, or TIFF, and a variety of other raster formats, but not JPEG.
How do I upload digital art onto Instagram?
For optimum quality across devices I upload digital art that is at least 1080 x 1080 pixels. I use Photoshop and File > Export > Save for Web to create a PNG or optimized JPG. If you use this method the image will automatically be converted to RGB. If you do not use this method be sure to double-check the image is RGB instead of CMYK.Good luck!
What is a smart object in Photoshop?
A Smart Object can be regarded as a Photoshop document (with its own layer or multiple layers) within a Photoshop document. It has several advantages and uses:You can combine multiple layers into one Smart Object, just for the sake of keeping stuff together while moving, scaling, rotating, and most other transformations. (But you could also achieve that by linking or grouping the layers.)The most known advantage is that turning a normal pixel-based layer into a Smart Object will save and retain all original pixels, and not simply add/delete pixels when you’d scale the original layer up or down.Less-known but very useful: just like with regular Layer Effects, most Filters can be applied non-destructively, and even have a (collective) mask !Vector based elements from e.g. Illustrator can be copied/pasted/placed as a Smart Object, and always retain a razor sharp rendition and remain editable as vector paths and shapes (Illustrator will open if you want to edit such an embedded Smart Object).Whole image files with vector and/or pixel-based content can be placed as a linked Smart Object (in stead of embedded), and keep updated with the original (when you edit such a Smart Object, you’ll be editing the original).Finally, you can perform some pretty nifty features with the Stack Mode of a Smart Object containing lots of almost similar (aligned) layers. Scientists use it a lot for all kinds of forensic purposes, but the Tourist Remover feature is also very popular among photographers !So you might ask yourself:Why isn’t every layer “Smart” by default ?Well, there’s one big downside to these Smart Objects: you can’t directly and easily perform any pixel-based tasks, like retouching and brushing, and that’s what we normally do a lot in Photoshop ! You’ll have to open up the Smart Object, do your thing without seeing it in the context of the whole Photoshop document, close and save the Smart Object, and judge your work.Maybe the Photoshop developers will be able to resolve this technical hindrance in the future, but for now it would not be a practical move to automatically turn every layer into a Smart Object.Another issue: downscaling whole pixel-based layers or large chunks of pixels, will destructively decrease the number of pixels. Which sounds like a quick and dirty thing, but has in fact one very important consequence: the file size drops drastically ! Keeping all layers smart (with all their pixels untouched) can result in a tremendously large file…