2000 ford ranger: was told it need a egr valve replaced . friend said it was easy and cheap job. need advice.?
If the code reader came up with something like EGR sensor voltage too low the the problem is th DPFE Sensor Comonlly refered to as the Delta Pressure Feedback Valve. It is located near the EGR valve and is a flat black plastic sensor with an electrical plug (Usualy white) pluged in the side and two hoses attached to the bottom.The other end of the hoses connect to the EGR valve tube, It is simple to change (make sure the plug is pluged in tight) and costs around $50.00 at the dealer. After you change it then disconnect the battery for around a minitute to turn off the check engine light.Got one at Autozone for $25.00 and took 10 minutes to change.
The oven on my Maytag Precision Touch Control 500 gas range won't heat up over 100 degrees. How do I fix it?
Your thermostat may need to be re-calibrated, or your thermocouple may not be getting hot enough to open the burner valve. I can think of at least 5 reasons for this, and it would be a matter of checking all of these to find out what is the reason. If you don't want an expensive repair bill, e-mail me and we can go through a few things.
How do I repair a Samsung washing machine with error code E1?
Hello! At all try to check this source and find information about this, if you don’t find any information, so listen to me!This is essentially a fill timeout error which will normally mean that either the water isn't on or that an inlet valve has failed or pressure switch problem check pipes as well.Water fill time out:The washing machine has failed to fill with water in a reasonable time.If there is no higher change in water frequency than 100Hz for 2 minutes during the initial time of water supply and if water level doesn't reach the preset level in 10 minutes, this error will occur.This error will be released using Start/Pause button, the washing machine will restart and attempt to fill with water again.Check water supply is on, clear and not frozenCheck the air chamber and pressure sensor hose for blockages and check the pipes for any holesCheck water inlet valveCheck wiring to water inlet valveCheck connections to water inlet valveCheck the main control PCB
How can I do a bypass EGR valve?
If you want to bypass it for a performance boost, you can simply block it off or simply unplug it.Blocking it is better because the computer probably won’t know it’s not working (it’s not going to measure combustion chamber temperatures or exhaust gas composition). If you unplug it, you will definitely get a check engine light and on some cars it might prevent the open/closed loop transition where the engine uses sensor inputs (such as O2 sensors and MAF) to adjust air/fuel mix. When an engine is just warming up it doesn’t use inputs from those sensors and just runs off presets, which would not help you… you want it to think everything is working OK.You might get a check engine light / code if you block it off, but you can always correct that by removing the blockage and clearing the codes whenever you need to.You would simply remove the EGR valve, and use a piece of sheet metal to cover the port from the exhaust manifold. You would drill two holes in it to match the two bolts that secure the valve but instead of there being an opening between the two bolts, it would just be blocked off by sheet metal.Some truckers do this to increase fuel economy and power. Same with some performance cars.
Why is my engine light on after a replace the intake manifold runner?
There are many reasons your check engine light can be on. The only way to tell for certain is to have your car connected to a code reader that is connected to the OBD port inside the car. There is a strong possibility that there is an electrical connector or vacuum line that is not connected, but that is only speculation; you really need to have a mechanic read the codes stored in your car’s computer. Almost certainly, the generic code readers that you buy at the auto parts store or purchase online will not be able to provide the same level of detail that your professional mechanic or dealer will have; however, they can provide in many cases enough data to point you in the direction of your problem. It is possible that the check engine light came on for a secondary and unrelated problem, but the chances of that are relatively small.
What could be wrong with my 1976 Cadillac Eldorado engine?
Unlike dick car guy, I suspected this car might have one or the other of the early throttle body fuel injection systems common to Cadillacs of this era, rather than just assume it had a carburetor. So I looked it up, and sure enough, it turns out that '76 Eldorados were available with either F.I. or a 4 Barrel carb, presumably a QuadraJet. Given that, and the symptoms you describe, without any trouble codes or investigative diagnosis to base it on, I would suspect there's a problem with the Idle Speed Control (ISC) motor, which performs basically the same function as an Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) on modern F.I. cars. But instead of being built into the throttle body and controlling the air entering directly, it acts on the throttle lever. It looks a lot like an anti-dieseling solenoid, but it's a stepper motor with 256 positions, instead of just on and off positions. Come to think of it, they were actually used most commonly on feedback (with an electronically controlled idle mixture control solenoid) carburetors, so you could have one on a QuadraJet too. Here's a drawing that shows one, in the upper left corner. http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/... in this case, on one of the F.I. setups. Either way (DFI, EFI or E4ME carb, on the corner of the throttle body facing the left front headlight. But you might want to have someone look at it who has a little more to go on, since I don't even know if it has a carb or F.I., or for that matter, I'm not even sure which of 2 possible F.I. systems it would have. My guess would be the "Digital" version, but the Repair Guide I'm looking at doesn't specify, and it covers models from 1967-1989. I have no idea where you'd get a part like that for that car these days, and one way or another, it's liable to cost a bundle. Or it could be as simple as a corroded or loose connection. That's where a professional diagnosis is worth the money. You might want to look for a guy who's old enough to have actually worked on one before. Maybe he'll even have an ISC test rig, like I do.
Can pressure cookers accidentally explode when trying to cook with them?
First generation pressure cookers use a weight to control the build up of pressure within the cooking vessel and relied upon that single valve to release any excess pressure but if the weight was accidentally knocked off, a messy eruption could occur, or that single valve could potentially get blocked. A popular form of this were the “jiggle top” style, and later models had a secondary manual pressure release valve to supplement the weight for a more controlled pressure release.Newer (second generation) pressure cookers have triple-redundant safety features to prevent overpressurization accidents. Not only is there the main pressure regulator, which is now a spring loaded valve that cannot be accidentally knocked off, there is also a pressure interlock that locks the lid in place and prevents the lid from being removed or opened while the vessel is pressurized, and finally there is a engineered failure point in the sealing gasket that will blow out and release the pressure in the event that the main valve is clogged and well before too much pressure can build.So if you have a second generation pressure cooker, there is very little chance that an accidental explosion could occur.
What does general motors trouble code 26 mean?
I own a shop, and from what I can tell; I would say you have a bad (Electronic Control Module) ECM. If you are getting this code on an Oldsmobile or Buick, then this is what the problem is. Looking at the code book, it gives this code in many places, but these are GM codes in which cover many different vehicles, and the first code there is for Quad Driver Circuit, and probably doesn't apply to yours. What does jump out at me is the ECM failure on your vehicle type. The others will be as follows: (1) Transaxel gear switch circuit, (2) EVAP purge solenoid circuit (vin P 5.7 liter engine), (3) TPS circuit shorted, and (3) Idle speed control (ISC) motor/throttle switch circuit shorted. If I were to bet on this one, I would bet you have a bad computer. To be fully certain, you must eliminate the others, or have the dealer run the diagnostics on it for you for a fee. You must use the symptoms the engine is doing, and incorporate that into all the different codes you get from the computer, and match the code that best describes your symptoms. If you are concerned about the EGR, then make a plate to temporarily block the EGR off completely, and I think you will find you still have the problem. Yes, a leaking EGR will cause a idle, and a running problem if they leak, but this is due to it sticking in the open position, and sucking air into the engine, not blowing bubbles out. The other components can be checked with a meter to determine if they have signal, ground, and voltage (if present) all the time. Understanding these parameters can be difficult at least, and the best way I have found to test the component is with a sensor tester, or ohms meter. You will need a Haynes Repair Manual for your vehicle in order to follow the procedures for testing each sensor/component. It has been my experience that; anytime a bunch of codes are present, then just replace the computer, because its highly unlikely several sensors will go bad at one time. The single most cause for any code will a power or ground problem. Clean all the battery cables, and any and all cables or wires that attach from the engine to the firewall. Many problems can be resolved by just doing this. Many times a computer will give false codes when it doesn't get the correct amount of voltage, or a good ground is not established between the battery, engine, and the body of the vehicle. Glad to help out, Good Luck!!!
Damaged water valves will not close?
This is a common problem. Don't force/twist them or they could break off. You will need to shut of water to your house [assume it is a single family?] The shut off is frequently in the front of the house where the water enters and could be under a hose bib [outlet]. Don't confuse the water shut off handle with the water pressure regulator, a dome shaped metal cylinder attached to the incoming water pipe. If you can't find the shut off there is usually one on the water utility's side of the water meter - closest to the street or road and sometimes one just on the outlet side of the water meter that you can twist by hand. After shutting of the main water supply to the house relieve pressure at a low point - usually a hose outlet. This way when you remove the water supply valve under the sink you won't get a cascade of water. You may want to douse the shut off [sometimes called angle stops] with some penetrant like PB Blaster penetrant and let it sit. You may want to purchase 1/4 turn ball style shut off valves as opposed to the twist or gate style. Note the size inlet, IPS 1/2 inch, 3/4" etc. and the outlet size, generally 3/8' for new faucets. Take a photo with your phone or a digital camera and take it to the store when you purchase new shut off valves. If you have a dishwasher and the water supply goes to the hot valve, then be certain to get a shut off valve with two outlets and use it on the hot side. If you are in a condo or multi-family you will need their permission to shut off the water unless each unit has it's own shut off [more typical of town house style than apt style condos.]