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How To Seal Up An Arrow Aluminum Shed

How to seal a metal shed?

I bought one of those metal sheds that you see everywhere and I had no idea what total piece of crap it was. Its a very long story, but it leaks from the roof in a few places and the whole thing condensates so bad it is like a rain forest in there and the water beads up and rains all over everything. Now its rusting on the inside! I am at my wits end with this thing and I was wondering since there are 100 million of these things around that someone else must have this problem as well. I was seriously considering spraying the whole thing on the insise with Rhino Liner or something like that which would seal the water out and kill the rust. Any ideas??

How to seal up an Arrow Aluminum Shed?

Hi, Steve. Don't feel like an idiot, please, or I'll have to do that too, and I don't wanna.

So it's a big cheap box to keep stuff in, but more lawn & garden stuff than a Steinway piano. Pretty good for keeping critters out, stuff from walking off, and just clearing out the garage. Keep the really good stuff in the house. So. Go after the roof, mainly. All joints should at least overlap a bit, and then can be sealed better with a big fat silicone caulk line, not a weanie little smear, but a big fat line, initially pushed into the seams. Sidewalls can be dealt with the same way, but maybe take it a little easier, or you'll have a noticeable mess.

In the process, look for seams that can easily be pushed apart by a few fingers - not enough fasteners. Go after something like one screw every foot or so on the run of a seam, using like "self-piercing" sheet metal screws, say a #8, 1/2" long, with a hex head, that can be zipped in with a cordless drill. Noting that the things will leave sharp tips inside the shed, in some cases might want to punch through with one from the store first, then back out and replace with some dulled by zipping the tip on a bench ginder or belt sander (two bags on the tool belt, etc.) Or, predrill and use all "dulled". Around the door, best shift to "machine screws", drilling through and using a lock washer and a nut - or a "nylox" locking nut - to go for tightness because of the stress and motion in that area.

All this assumes you're just not bummed over water getting in the bottom. Should be at least a little above-grade, on some kind of foundation or platform.

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