Well then the cylinders fire in the wrong order, which would result in either an engine that runs badly, or not at all. Backfire is certainly possible. Generally, the result is not subtle, but it could give no more warning than a no-start.On modern coil-on-plug systems, you don’t really have an opportunity to do this.
I changed my spark plugs now my car runs rough?
1. When you connected the wires, did you hear a “snap” or “click” indicating a good connection? 2. Are the spark plug wires replaceable or not? If they are, the wire to the connector inside could be loose causing a short circuit 3. Did you replace with the same type of spark plug as before or did you “upgrade”. Upgrading typically isn’t always better. 4. When you replace the spark plugs, did you have to remove anything, and if you did, did you replace it? 5. You should check all electrical connections just to make sure you didn’t partially disconnect something 6. On most V6 and larger, you have to remove the air intake assembly to get to some of the spark plugs, the MAF sensor is in that assembly, did you connect that?
What exactly would brand new spark plugs do for my car?
The fancy, high dollar, multi ground strap, etc plugs WILL NOT give you any more performance over a std plug. I am a race engine builder, with builds ranging from street, drag, dirt, paved oval, 250 HP to 1500 HP.. N/A, nitrous, supercharger and turbo.. I have track tested and dyno'ed every plug known to man I will tell you right now, there is no gain, non what so ever, and in fact I seen power loss with some of those fancy plugs.. Even race engine with 14:1 compression don't use them, In fact thats the last thing they we need because the ground straps would turn cherry red and act as a glow plug and cause pre ign, detonation, etc. In race engines I mostly use auto light AR (racing) plugs because they have a non projected tip, and the ground strap is cut down so it just extends to the edge of elecrode, and they come in colder heat ranges (yes colder, most dont understand heat ranges. It's not how hot or cold the firing tip is, but how quick it transfers chamber heat through plug body and out of chamber) Bosch has been the worst plug I have tried.. Be it std, plat, multi ground strap... They foul out quicker. If you have worn plugs now, elecrode worn down, plugs half fouled, etc then yes any plug you put in it will give you better performance than you8 have now.. But again the high dollar, fancy plugs will not make any more power than a std plug In my 500 HP, mid 11 second chevy camaro street car I run auto lite 3923 plugs $1.49 to 1.79 each depending on where you shop. Save your money man, and buy the std plugs for your car and use the money you saved to put towards real performance parts
Will faulty spark plugs cause your car to stall?
Not necessarily faulty but fouled spark plugs can cause an engine to stall. But that's not what your car is experiencing. It's experiencing a misfire which is a little different. It's like saying a square can be a rectangle but a rectangle can not be a square. If you think the car has been sitting for a while, you should replace the air filter immediately. A dirty air filter can cause an engine to stall especially on acceleration and can also cause misfire. You should also check the transmission fluid level and the condition of the fluid. Dirty fluid can cause the car to act like it is experiencing an engine misfire. Low transmission fluid level will cause torque converter shudder and in severe cases cause the engine to stall. Again, you should check the following: It could be a bad battery, alternator, ignition coils, spark plugs or spark plug wires.
Why does my spark plug keep popping out of place on my '92 Toyota Celica?
My spark plug keeps popping out of place on my car, and I can't figure out why. The spark plugs are less than six months old and were replaced by a mechanic and I have never had any problems until yesterday. After a long highway trip, my spark plug popped out of place. After I got home, I pushed it back in and thought that would fix the problem, but it did it again today. It's not popping all the way out, just enough to cause my car to jerk under 3000 RPM. It hasn't stalled yet, but it acts like it's going to whenever I put it in neutral or sit at a light with the clutch engaged. Apparently just pushing it back in isn't going to fix it. How can I fix this problem? I can't see a mechanic until Thursday (two days later) and I am afraid that driving my car with a spark plug that keeps popping out will cause permanent damage to my engine. Also, what would cause a problem like this out of nowhere? I don't know if it makes a difference, but I have a 1992 Toyota Celica GTS 4 speed stick.
Rough running, hard to start, hesitation on acceleration and a raw gas odor at the tailpipe. Symptoms tend to get worse in wet weather. Sometimes you can actually hear (a ticking noise that changes frequency with RPMs.) and see the spark jumping off the offending wire to the most available ground. A responsible mechanic will reccomend inspecting the whole ignition system, cap, rotor, coil packs, igniter, sensors as equipped, but plug wires are normally good for five to ten years, when installed correctly.
Yes it can, HOWEVER, by the time your plugs are bad enough to prevent the engine starting up, you will have had a lot of miles with bad plugs causing poor engine performance. You would have noticed rough idle, weak acceleration, noisy exhaust sounds and a number of other symptoms that result from spark plugs not functioning on each and every power stroke.If these symptoms have not occurred then I would look elsewhere for the problem.
If you are getting water on electrode end you have a blown head gasket. This means removing the head and replacing the head gasket. If you are getting water on the outside of your spark plug or plugs you have a water leak somewhere. This question is hard to answer with out seeing the engine and checking it out.
If this isn't a diagnostic question, just curiosity, a water-wet plug has a high risk of misfiring. The water will typically conduct the current over the insulator rather than allowing it across the gap. The same could potentially happen if gas-wet.If you are asking for diagnostic reasons, if you have water in your cylinder, it may be excessive condensation if it has sat for a long time, it may have also ingested water. If coolant is the concern, you have a leak somewhere. Head gasket can be common, as well as intake gasket on some designs. Less common would be a cracked head, cracked block, or electrolytically perforated intake passage.