How to train double jointed fingers for piano?
You can do some isometrics. These are good for strengthening any joints. Double jointedness means that a particular joint is weak. If you, once a day, use each finger and press down on a hard surface (like a table) for ten seconds in a good curved position as though you are at the piano, it should strengthen those joints. If they collapse while doing the exercise, use your other hand to bolster the joints while you are pressing down. ~Lisa
What is the best way to learn left hand on piano?
I know that accomplished pianists develop complete independence and agility in their left hand, but for most of us the left hand is a struggle (if we’re right handed). If we’re left handed, it can be the other way around.Along the edge of the brain’s primary motor cortex is a groove called the central sulcus. In most cases, one side of the groove is deeper, depending on whether the person is right or left handed. A study by Alan HD Watson of the School of Biosciences, Cardiff University, showed that, in advanced piano players, the sides are more symmetrical. In other words, learning piano strengthens the weaker side of the central sulcus, thereby making your nondominant hand literally smarter and more independent.[1]We need to do exercises that challenge and strengthen the left hand fingers to be able to move freely but also with control.Recommend: scales, arpeggios, finger drills that alternate dominant and non-dominant fingers. See the exercise below from ‘Making Music Mag’:Here is another suggested finger exercise you can do even when not at the piano:Place your hand on the table (or whatever surface) as though you were resting your fingers on the keys. "Play" the sequence 1-3-5-2-4, repeating it over and over. Things to work on are your rhythm, make sure that each "note" you play is even. (For instance, 1-3--2 are more dominant fingers, but make sure ---2-4 are doing their share of the work!) Work on being able to keep that up for several minutes, keeping the 1-3-5-2-4 progression intact. [2]In terms of learning the left hand part of a piece of music, here are my tips:start slowwork on the left hand separately - don’t try to play hands together until you are confident with it.pay attention to the fingering you use, the right fingers used in a passage can make an unplayable piece, easy.practice the rhythm pattern on it’s own before you add the notes in (you can do this part away from the piano).Add the notes in, then think about your consistency of touch (keeping each key played with the same weight from your arm).If you would like more advice on learning piano come to my facebook group ‘Let’s Talk Piano’. Also I have a free introductory piano course here.Footnotes[1] Piano Exercises: Make Your Hands Stronger | Making Music Magazine[2] Finger Exercises for Piano when not playing
Is there anything you can put under a table lamp that will help to keep it from being knocked...?
Velcro will certainly work, but would potentially damage both the wood and the lamp. A better solution might be to use what’s known as museum wax or earthquake wax, which is a sort of putty (also comes in a gel form) used to secure items so they don’t shift around during earthquakes. It is easy to use (you just mash it up with your fingers and stick it between the lamp and the table), and generally removes easily, though you might want to try some on an area of the table that isn’t visible first, in case the finish on it is fragile. In non-earthquake areas, this type of putty is often used in college dorms to hang posters on the wall, and may be known as Plastitack. Since you live in TN, if your local hardware store doesn’t have an earthquake section (you are technically in an earthquake zone, due to the New Madrid fault), try the section where hooks and other items to hang pictures are and see if they keep it there. I have cats with similar practices and one thing that I also find helpful is to put a rubber slip-proof mat under items that might slide off of wooden surfaces (like the vase I have on top of the piano). You can use pieces of rug mats (the kind you use to keep throw rugs in place) or the smaller squares that are often used to open jars -- anything to reduce the friction and keep items from sliding. Obviously, this only works for objects that might slide and won’t help things that actually get knocked over. There are materials as you describe, straps which prevent small children from pulling TVs and other objects over, or to secure heavier items during earthquakes, but they have to be "stuck" to both the table and the item, and would probably be overkill unless you have a really dangerous lamp or really large and active cats.
What type of piano do you have and how old is it? Can you share a picture of it?
What type of piano do you have and how old is it? Can you share a picture of it?At my parents’ house, we have had an Everett upright piano for over ten years. I am almost positive that we bought a refurbished version, since Yamaha stopped producing Everett pianos in the 80s. It’s a very nice piano, and it’s seen a lot of love since we bought it (you can tell from the wear on some of the edges).At my dorm, I also have an electronic piano. Thanks to the fact that I just came home for Christmas break, I don’t have the full setup in the image, but here it is on a different stand with a different pedal:As you can see, I have used it as a place to keep laptop stickers.Anyway, this keyboard is a Yamaha P255, which is a very high quality line of keyboards. In some ways I actually prefer it over a real piano, as the keys have graded hammer action, which simulates a grand piano shockingly well. It also sounds almost exactly like the real thing. I have had it for just over two years and it has served me very well.Pretty soon I am also looking to purchase another keyboard, as my P255 weighs over 40 pounds with the stand and is a pain to move around. It also would be nice to have a more versatile MIDI controller than one with just a keyboard.
How can you properly lacquer over painted wood?
There are several things to consider when lacquering over painted wood. First determine if the paint has been clear coated in any way already. There are other types of clearcoat and not all of them are compatible with being coated with lacquer. These include shellac, polyurethane, melamine, urethane, conversion varnish, oils and waxes. Some of those can be coated over with just scuffing the surface with sandpaper and some require stripping off completely.However, if all you have is a paint coat without any top coat, the only concerns you have now are whether the paint is water based or oil based and is it a flat sheen or does it have any shiny sheen to it at all? If it’s oil based you cannot lacquer over it at all. But, if it’s water-based, then you must figure out if it is flat or not. This is because paints considered matte, satin, semi-gloss or gloss ALL have elasticizers mixed in that causes the paint to get that sheen to them. These additives are not compatible with lacquers and often will “wrinkle” if coated with lacquer. The only way around that issue is to first coat over the paint with shellac. Shellac is a universal binder and can be used to bridge the gap between incompatible coatings or to cover over oils or waxes that may have been used on an antique in the past.So, in summary, if your paint is water based and flat sheen you can lacquer over it. Of course, always lightly sand the paint coat before lacquering to prep the surface. Good luck and happy finishing!
Is there a way to change color of mahogany piano without stripping and refinishing?
Any messing about might change the sound and surely the value. Having it stripped and refinished would be expensive, as you already know. Instead try a major wood cleaning. Look for Doozy products http://www.doozy.com/ Use the cleaner first then the polish. Fifty years is a long time and who knows what has built up on the wood. Could be once it is clean and polished up nicely, you'll find it more acceptable. Yeah, you could sand down the wood and then paint it, but I don't think you'll like the effect. Unless you know what you are doing, you could end up with runs, drips and a mess. Still, if the alternative is dumping it, go ahead and paint it. Talk to a major brand paint store and see what all they recommend for prep and product.
I wish to repaint the cabinets in my kitchen. They are finished with a factory finish. Is it possible to repaint them? Will they look good and last?
It can be done and may or may not be relatively easy. A lot depends on what the factory finish is. If it’s vinyl or melamine it will be difficult to get the paint to stick.In any case you should thoroughly clean and lightly sand the entire surfaces to be painted. You should then prime with a primer paint specifically formulated to adhere to the existing finish. You can then paint them with whatever top coat you like. Top coat finishes are a whole topic unto themselves which I don’t have time to go into.Another approach, since cabinet doors and drawers are quite standardized, would be to simply buy replacements in a style and finish you prefer. This may be easier than the painting and the existing doors and drawer fronts may not be worth all the effort.
How do you make painted wood furniture REALLY SHINY?
Think of a black grand piano. I'm talking really smooth shiny surfaces. Not like semi-smooth semi-shiny hardwood floors. I'm talking like GLASS shiny. How do you get that look? I want to paint wood furniture and then put something else on it to make it look shiny. I saw a "How It's Made" (television show about how they make stuff/products) and they were making grand pianos. They painted the wood black, and I can't remember the next step, but then they buffed the hell out of the black paint with a motorized buffer. Know how to do this? Thanks for any answers. I really appreciate it.
After sanding bare wood, why, when wiping it down with a damp cloth it gets rough again. How can I prevent this before painting?
Wiping down the surface with a wet cloth raises the surface fibers of the wood. Wood swells in contact with water and this is one consequence of that.A tack cloth is for picking up dust without wetting the surface. It does not help once the grain is already raised.Many woodworkers (myself included) will wet the surface intentionally to produce an especially smooth finish. After sanding to 150 or 180 grit I will wipe the surface with a wet rag (wrung out, not dripping wet) to raise the grain before a final pass with 220 grit. After this final sanding is the time to use a tack cloth if you want to remove any remaining dust without raising the grain again. Since I mainly use oil finishes I just wipe it down with a lightly oiled rag before applying the first heavy coat of oil. This may or may not be appropriate if you are using an emulsion finish like paint or varnish.For paint finishes this level of finishing is typically overkill unless you are going for piano black. For most painted surfaces sanding to 120 grit and brushing, wiping with a dry rag, or blowing off the surface with compressed air is sufficient. You just need to remove most of the dust. Minute amounts of very fine wood dust will not harm most paint finishes.