Car audio problems with subwoofer... need help please!?
For dual voice coil subs you definitely want to wire both coils up at the same time. Reasons is you are pushing the sub to the limits with one coil only hooked up. It will cause the voice coils to heat up and destroy the sub (this happened to me with an XXX 12" RE audio sub. The shop I took my subwoofer to, made a box and hooked up only ONE FRIGGIN COIL!!! Pissed me off...I blew it...didnt realize it was hooked up to just one coil. Now my sub is useless ($800 sub...wasted) I should have checked but you figure the shop knew what they were doing...(or one would hope...) If your other 12" SS is wired with only one coil too...I'd suggest fixing that right away before you damage that one too. And play Low/medium volume of sound thru the sub for a few hours first to get the NEW Coil that hasnt been hooked up some play time and get it warmed up so to speak (or broken in). As far as repairing the sub, you are looking at replaceing the voice coils. And possibly even just plain RECONING it, it's not easy to replace just the voice coils as you are tearing down the whole sub taking off the cone and coils. Most likely damaging the cone to replace the coils in the process. You might check Fi Car audio to see if they will recone it. But unless these puppies are AMAZING $300+ subs, most recone kits run $100+ and then labor to recone. Link to Fi's Technical forum: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum... You can ask them there. But if you read some of the questions asked as to how much to recone ...your 12's will probably cost around the same. (If they have the parts and ability to work with your Autotek SS Sub. I am assuming that these are your subs? http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/... or very similar to...they cost around $80....So unless Fi Car Audio can do the recone cheap, it's probably not worth fixing. Also realize the time and cost to ship. Just wouldnt be worth it...buy new ones if that's the case. If you plan to replace your bad 12"...then hook the subs this way: http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/lear... of course make sure you get the same sub....or fix the bad one. that is the only way to prevent this problem.
Problem with my car audio skipping/stuttering.? ('93 Lexus SC400)?
Well, the first thing you should do is check the wiring...
I have problem with my car audio. The volume seems to increase and decrease randomly.?
It happens with both radio and CD's, and if there is some sort of pattern I am not seeing it. I drive a 2004 Tiburon GT and the Radio is a Pioneer, not sure about the model at this time. I dont believe it is the original radio, because I recently purchased the car used, and It is the only Tiburon I have seen with this radio. Im not sure if I need to give other info, so thanks in advance for any answers!
Car Audio Problem: MTX amp won't turn off automatically - makes clicking sounds?
I have an MTX TA5601 amp wired to a 1.2 farad capacitor and to my 2 MTX 12" Thunder 5500 subs. Recently, when I turn off my car, or even just shut off the stereo, the amp won't turn off. I realized this when I got into my car this morning and heard odd clicks (of very quiet bass) inside my car. I checked the trunk, and sure enough the amp had been on all night doing this. Also, the amp's fan was turning on and off rapidly too. I don't know if it makes any difference or not, but when I touched the metal heatsink, the fan didn't turn on. Anyhow, I was able to get the amp to auto- power down buy unplugging the RCA inputs for a minute, and then plugging them back in. Could it be a problem with my Head Unit? or is it a defective amp? I have checked the remote turn-on wire on the amp, and it is securely connected, but I have not checked the end hooked up to the head unit. Any suggestions? (BTW I have an optima yellowtop battery, so I am not having any immediate problem with this...)
Can I burn an audio CD on a DVD-R and have it behave as a CD-R so I can play it in all cars and players?
You're solving the problem the wrong way. A DVD is physically different than a CD, so it will not play in a CD player. While a DVD-audio format exists, very few players will play it, especially in cars. So forget DVDs.A better solution is to convert the audio into MP3 format and burn the MP3 files on to a CD-R formatted as a DATA CD. Most more modern car CD players will play MP3 DATA CDs. The 80 minute limit is only for CD-DA "Compact Disc" audio. You can easily fit 4 to 12 hours of MP3 audio on a CD, depending on the audio quality selected.An even better solution is to place those files on an MP3 player with flash storage, like most smartphones or inexpensive digital audio players, and play that through aux or Bluetooth.
CD player still works, but no AM/FM reception of any kind on car radio?
Check the antenna. See if the antenna on the vehicle is damaged (this time of year car washes take off 90% of vehicle antennae). Assuming the vehicles antenna is intact and in one piece, check the antenna connection behind the radio. If the antenna is connected behind the radio, there could possibly be a problem with the radio's tuner (internally). The only way to properly diagnose this problem is to place a radio that is known to work into the vehicle (simply to test) and check the radio reception. If the radio reception is improved and working, you know the problem lies within the radio itself. If it still does not work, there is a problem with the antenna on the vehicle (disconnected, damaged, cut, etc.)
Can i reuse wiring kit from my current car audio system and install it into my new car without any problems?
If you've pulled your system out of your old car - there's very little reason to leave the wiring kit in there. (Unless it's a selling point for the car.) I'd pull the old wire & RCA's and visually expect them. If you notice the shielding isn't damaged then they're fine to reuse. Kicker wiring kits are durable - I'm willing to bet they're still in good shape. (You can bend them into a shape of a pretzel, literally - they're that easy to work with.) At any rate, this is a good time to judge how well your car audio installer did the first time around. Lastly, don't trust the "sales guy" - his recommendation is typical. I prefer to judge it on a case to case basis.
I had new speaker and amp installed and now car won't start! Can this be caused by bad installation?
Oh these are always fun. Though I can't give you a diagnosis over email, I can tell you it is 100% possible to kill a car with a stereo installation. Your amplifier needs a signal to turn on or it will stay on always and kill your battery. Stereo install guys turn on the car and stab a test light into random wires looking for one powered only when the car is turned on. Unfortunately they have been known to splice into a CAN data bus. The CAN network in charge of communication for your security and locking could be disabled keeping your key from being authorized. Or the CAN network for your chassis systems can be shut down that deals with communication for your engine, transmission, and typically traction control. A CAN network is typically a 5 volt system but it suplies power in micro amps as it is only used for communication and not supplying a load such as switching a relay, lighting a bulb, or spinning a motor. Splicing into these to supply the relay to turn on the amp effectively grounds the circuit and does not allow for the digital signal to propogate. Sometimes it easier and they just blew a fuse while poking around with a test light, or shorted a harness by running a screw through it while mounting components. Had a lowjack installer put a screw through a floorboard and into a fuel tank once, cause a check engine light due to an emissions test, luckily it didn't burn down the car first. I have fixed at least a dozen of these problems on Benz's in the shop after a car got towed in from the stereo shop.
How can you improve Bluetooth music quality through car stereo?
Audio over Bluetooth is transmitted through the A2DP profile and AVDTP protocol.The audio stream is encoded with a codec and then transmitted, the receiving end de-codes the signal and plays it back.The default codec for this is SBC, it encodes in 198 kbit/s for mono and 345 kbit/s for stereo streams.This is the bitrate quality bottle neck.If you want better quality, you have to make sure that both the transmitting and recieving part supports a higher quality codec over A2DPFor the specifications of A2DP and AVDTP, see Bluetooth Technology Website If you suffer from dropped packages (clicks or pops in the audio stream) it is due to interference, it can help to turn of Wi-Fi since they often share antenna and can have coexistence problems.