How to hook up subs and amp to stock stereo in car?
stock stereo- You will need to Pull the stock HU (Head Unit) to get to the back of the radio. There you will find the speaker wires. You will have to install a LOC (Line Output Converter), which can be bought online or at a store such as Walmart. This LOC connects to the factory speaker wires and has RCA outputs for your amp. This is a simple prodject, however you will get much better sound out of a new HU. You will want to buy a new HU that has RCA outputs for an amp and prehaps RCA or mini pin inputs if you wish to connect a Mp3 player or Xm radio if you all ready have one. If you wish to keep the factory HU, you can also install an aux adaptor which will give you RCA input
Do i need to solder the wires in my new stereo?
i just bought a new stereo and im planning to put it in sometime real soon. i was wondering tho if theres anything i could do to connect the wires to the new wiring harness instead of soldering? i know soldering would be better but i would crimp them if it doesnt make that much of a difference.
What do I need for my Car Stereo System?
I am new to car audio, and pretty much everything to do with it. From a little bit of research I have decided on what I need. The main priority is a subwoofer, one is fine but if it's worth it, two can be a choice. I am unsure on whether I will need more speakers, amps or a new stereo. All preferable, yet I am on budget. In american dollars I am thinking in the region of 200-300 dollars, but that is just what I can afford, for the perfect and easy to install first package with a sub, two speakers an amp and a stereo, what price am I looking at for each, and as a bundle. My car is a Ford Laser 1998 Sedan 1.8. Please give full product names, please give me an explanation of Amps, why you need them, where they go, and how do you tell how much you need? Thanks :D
What kind of car stereo system could I get for under 800 dollars?
what ur gunna need to do is get a 4 channel amp for your compnent speakers kenwoods or mtx or alpine are nice. For your component speakers i would go with polk momo or infinita kappa series. Just make sure that the RMS of ur amp matches up to the RMS of the component speakers. That should tune up to about 400 or 500 dollars. and for a subs you could get a MTX or JL audio and pair(amp) it with a hifonics or kicker amp. the sub and amp together should not cost more than 300 dollars. and there is your 800 dollars. if u are going for sound quality i would go with a 10" sub if u want it to be louder and have lower bass i would go with a 15" and obviously if u want good sound quality and a pretty loud sub go with a 12" sub. for all this u should check out ebay if u know exactly what u want or check out crutchfield.com to see what u want and refrence their prices to what u can find on ebay a lot of times ebay has better prices. good luck.
Can I replace a stereo in my 2008 Dodge Caliber?
If you're going to replace the factory radio, then look for one that suits your fancy. BUT, if there are features built into the factory radio that you want to keep, and all you need is way to play your mp3 or phone through the sound system that's there already, then get an FM modulator installed. This will give you a 3.5mm plug for your mp3 or phone, so you can listen to whatever you want, and keeps the stock radio sound system just as it is. Audiovox FMM100a is a good one. I've installed several and they work well. i-Simple makes one too.
What's the cheapest way to have a car stereo installed?
Cheapest isnt the best. Ive been installing car stereos for 20+ years. The shop I work at charges 35-60 dollars depending on type of vehicle and type of radio, plus parts. We all love it when someone comes in and says my friend installs radios. Well have them put it in but its going to cost alot more to fix after they mess it up. The wire harnesses for cars is typically under 20 dollars. If someone says they need to cut any wires on the car that is a red flag that they dont know what they are doing. There is alot of damage that can be done by someone who doesnr know what they are doing… things ive seen personallyScrews drilled into gas tank.Airbags deployed.Computer fried.Car caught on fire.What do you think the cost of any of these would be? Pay a reputable shop to install.
What are some things I should know and do when installing aftermarket speakers in my car?
The first thing to know, is that most of what people will tell you is nonsense.Next, while there are a ton of speaker brands to choose from, there are not as many manufacturers. Many packaged speaker brands are “catalog” speakers…in other words, they’re made in a speaker factory somewhere, and they are sold by lots of different companies. This is the same with Amps, head units, subs, etc.Car speakers tend to be bunched by price bands. There are some in the $20–50 price band that sound ok, but if they have goofy colors, odd insects or shapes cut into them, or strange graphics printed on them, I’d stay away. Those are lower end, and will probably not last as long or sound as clear.Up the food chain, there are many that are priced higher, but you can get to the point of diminishing returns with money spent. There’s no such thing as a “300 watt” speaker. It doesn’t put out 300 watts. Its capable of handling the voltage that produces 300 watts at a given impedance without melting down. But the wattage of the speaker has ZERO bearing on its sound quality. None. Zilch. Nada.There are tons of brands from all over the world. Even the most “esteemed” brands sell catalog speakers in some parts of their product lines. Sometimes, the higher end parts are made to spec for the brand. Sometimes, even those are catalog based. What’s the difference between the $50 and $200 JBL/Kicker/etc? Sometimes they will perform exactly the same for a given installation. Sometimes, the cheaper ones will sound better in a factory replacement role, as they may be more sensitive.Also, there’s absolutely NOTHING wrong with paper cones. Plastic may be more water resistant, but many paper or paper blend speakers sound incredible and have high sensitivity. There are plenty of lower grade plastic cone speakers out there.Then there’s size. There’s no perfect size. Some argue that 6.5 sound better than 6x9. Dopey and dumb. It can all sound fine.Multi Axial (coax, triax, etc) can sound fine too, but separates often sound better simply because each speaker exists on its own. But this depends on the crossover, many of which are junky.So don’t believe most of the hocus pocus people tell you. ALL speakers will work. ALL speakers (2 ohm, 4 ohm, etc) will work in almost ALL applications, but they might not reach the volumes you want depending on amplification.
What type of amplifier(s) do I need for my car?
I do not know where you read about the efficiency of amps, but I would have to say it really depends on the product you purchase. There are quite a few questions that need to be answered to appropriately answer. Starting off, you need to know the subs impedance and how many voice coils it has. This will help you determine which amp will suit you best. For the speakers, is it 160w RMS per speaker, or them as a pair? I'm assuming they are coaxial speakers?With the info you have given, likely you will want two amps. A small 2 channel amp to power your speakers on individual channels, and a monoblock amp for the subwoofer. But, again, picking the amp for the sub will vary with the subwoofer itself. Also, if the speakers are 160w EACH, you could get away with a 4 channel amp, with the front two channels individually powering the speakers, and the rear two channels bridged powering the subwoofer. (keep in mind, when bridging an amp very very few will handle an impedance rating under 2 ohms.All in all, you get what you pay for in car audio. When picking equipment, it's worth that little extra money for quality.