How do I fix an engine that seized because of no oil?
Since you are even asking this question in the first place, I’m assuming that you are perhaps not aware of what it means to seize an engine from oil starvation. When you starve an engine of oil, things start to weld together. This is why engines seize. Things can even weld together to such a degree that the engine (or at least certain parts of it) is literally not repairable. I have seen, for instance, cams that are welded to heads to such a degree that the only option is to throw them away and replace. The same can go for crankshafts or even pistons in cylinders.Regardless, even in the best cases, an engine rebuild is in order. Given that most (if not all) rotating and sliding surfaces in the engine are likely damaged, you will probably be replacing all bearings, pistons, rings, camshaft, rockers/lifters, and oil pump (among other things). You will need to rebore the block and probably regrind the crank. And if the engine is an overhead cam engine with machined surfaces in the head for the cam(s), you will likely be replacing the head(s). Needless to say, this is going to be a very expensive, laborious, and time consuming process. And it may or may not be worth it. Oftentimes, unless there is something REALLY special about the engine (like a rare engine, numbers matching classic car, etc), replacement is a better option. Rebuilding may also be a good option if you want to upgrade the engine internals for performance reasons. But even in this instance, you must carefully consider whether the engine is damaged beyond reasonable repair. It might be better here to start with another longblock.When it comes to replacement, there are a few options. You can often purchase low mileage engines imported from Japan for a fairly low cost. For Japanese cars, this is a GREAT option. Alternately, you can almost certainly pick up a used engine from a salvage yard or private party on craigslist for FAR less than it would cost to rebuild your current engine. Buying a rebuilt engine is another option. This is more expensive than the previous two options. But an engine from a reputable rebuilder can be in basically new condition and last a long time.
I put a little oil in where my power steering fluid goes. Will it ruin my car?
If you put a little motor oil in, chances are no harm will be done. It will be good to have the system cleaned out, flushed and new fluid put in when the chance arrives, but I would not sweat it. Motor oil has many of the properties of hydraulic oil, with a higher viscosity (it’s thicker). A little will do no harm. It will not damage seals, nor will it be incompatible with the hydraulic oil that is in there now (power steering fluid or maybe ATF such as Dexron III or type F), as it all comes from the same base stock.In short, carry on - nothing to see here.
How much can I expect to pay to replace a 2005 mercruiser 305 engine in a 24' sea ray sun deck?
A 5.0L MPI "bobtail" engine (not a re-manufactured engine) is $9500 including freight from Mercruiser. Parts (gaskets, new gimbal bearing, engine coupler, intermediate shift cable) will be about $800, and labour should be around 10 - 12 hrs, so $12,600 is a reasonable quote. This is your best option on a boat this new, and comes with a 1 year warranty. An additional 2 year warranty can be purchased for a couple of hundred dollars. An aftermarket 5.0L re-manufactured long block with a 90 day warranty can be had for around $2800, but all the external parts- fuel system and intake, exhaust, alternator, p/s pump, flywheel,etc, will have to be removed from your old engine and installed on the replacement block. This will triple the labour bill, an average total cost of replacing a 5.0L is usually around $8500. Yep, almost 4 grand cheaper than the bobtail from Merc, but remember, you aren't getting a new engine, and 90 days isn't much of a warranty. Despite what another answerer has said, rebuilds are still quite common and in some cases rebuilding is the best way to go. If your seized engine has damage to either the crankshaft or block, rebuilding is not your best option, and rebuilds usually only offer a short warranty. In your case I would suggest that an OEM replacement engine is the best way to go, despite the extra cost. Best product, best warranty, and will help maintain your boats' resale value. Plus this option will probably get you on the water faster. Here is some info on Mercruisers' repower program: http://www.mercurymarine.com/repower/mer...
Running a boat engine with low compression?
what cylinders have what compression? the problem could be as simple to fix as a new head gasket. 1, 3 and 5 on one side, 2, 4 and 6 on the other. if 1 and 3 are your low cylinders, or any other side by side pair, its most likely a head gasket. worst case the head itself is warped, and that is still not that expensive to fix. i would also suggest doing a wet test. its the exact same as a normal compression test, except you add just a few drops of oil into the cylinder to coat the rings with. if the rings are the cause of low compression, the compression will be higher during a wet test then what you got during the dry test. and leakdown testers are great too. hooks up in place of the spark plug just like a compression tester, but connects to an air compressor and pumps air into the cylinder, air that you can then look for where its exiting at. and very important, making sure you battery is strong and providing the same amount of power for every cylinder, instead of getting weaker and weaker.... were your low cylinders by any chance the LAST ones you checked? i like hooking up my charger and putting it on low 10 amp charge the entire time i'm doing a compression test. AFTER making sure the battery is full of water and fully charged to begin with..... your motor isnt running equally. that will add a little stress and shorten its life, but 100 isnt that low. you will however be pouring as much gas into those cylinders as the rest and getting less power out of that gas every time you use it. with a service manual, basic tools and a decent torque wrench, chances are you can fix this yourself for under $200.
What happens when car battery cables are wrongly connected?
Let's say the red cable from the jumper cables is the positive terminal, and the black cable is the negative terminal.The battery with the red cable on the positive terminal will be a +12 V battery, and the battery with a red cable on the negative terminal will be a -12 V battery. When they are connected together, then what you were doing is putting -12 V battery in parallel with a +12 V battery.If you do this, then the positive 12 V battery tries very hard to make the -12 V battery positive, and vice versa. Because a battery is a voltage source, each battery will flow as much current as possible into the other battery trying to equalize their voltage levels.The only resistance to this flow of current is the battery’s internal resistance and the jumper cable resistance. Together, this resistance might only be 0.1 Ohms.Car batteries can easily supply 500 Amps if the load resistance is small enough. So with 24 volts of difference between the 2 batteries, and 0.1 Ohms of resistance, 240 Amps will be flowing between the batteries. The formula for calculating power from current and resistance is P=I^2*R => P=240^2*0.1=5760 Watts of power. Because there is no work being performed, all of that power gets turned into heat.All of that power dissipating as heat will melt the insulators on your jumper cables, and it will melt the plastics of the battery, and it will cause the battery acid in the battery to start boiling.
How do you fix a hydrolocked engine?
First you need to create a way for the fluid to escape the cylinder(s), removing the spark plugs if it’s petrol or the injectors if it’s diesel will do that. Then turn the engine with a spanner a couple of times to get most of it out, followed by spinning it up with the starter motor.The next questions of course are what is that fluid, how did it get there, will more get in there and has any damage been caused?If it’s diesel from repeatedly trying to start it with batteries too weak to fire it up then that’s okay but although I’ve seen this happen I’ve only seen it once, it’s rare. Usually the fluid is coolant that’s got in there via a blown cylinder head gasket or cracked cylinder head, these would have to be repaired. If the water’s been in there a while and there’s no antifreeze, which contains corrosion inhibitors then the cylinder may have rusted. Attempting to start an engine with fluid in a cylinder can shatter the piston rings because the engine can’t compress it.Another common source of water in cylinders is tractors or plant machinery left in the rain with their exhaust pipes uncovered where the exhaust points straight upwards.
Boat engine oil Penta Volvo 5 L Cobra?
I'd use what has been used in it all along or IF it is new, I'd change over to a good synthetic 10/30 or something along that line. I change my 5.7 Mercrusier over to Castrol Synthetic 5w30 after 40 hours and uses no oil and I have about 300 or so on it now! Just make sure you change it before going out the first time going out after the winter, maybe once during the middle of the season and again at the end of the season before winterizing it!
How long does it take to repair a head gasket?
You don’t repair a head gasket, you replace it.Once I had a rally car - a bit of a ratty old junker if the truth be told - that had a 2.3 litre overhead cam engine. It was a bit like this, only this one is way nicer:Anyway I was heading off to do a rally on some Friday night. On the Thursday, the day before, I took it out for a blast around the lanes to shake down any last-minute faults, and blew the head gasket. It was too late to do anything about it that night, so next morning, I got up at the crack of dawn, stripped the engine down to the point of having the head off (it was OHC, so that involved also removing the cambox, timing belts, etc. plus the exhaust manifold, inlet manifold and carburettors) By then it was almost 9am, so I drove to the nearest big town - 25 miles away - to get a replacement head gasket set. 25 miles back, and by 10am had the head all cleaned and ready to be reassembled. Engine back together and running by 12pm, I then had to drive it 250 miles to where the rally started. It all went smoothly and I made it with plenty of time to spare.So the answer to your question, for me, on that occasion, for this car, was about 6 hours, including an hour to fetch the parts. Sometimes what you need, apart from the basic skills, which in my case don’t amount to all that much, is a great big incentive!As I recall, the rally ended in disaster, but that’s another story.
Is the Chevy 427, a small block or a big block?
This question really depends on Era of the vehicle… the 1960’s era 427 is a Big Block Engine, which would be considered an “L71”.In 2014 Chevrolet began production of the “LS7”, which is a 427 Small Block producing 505hp.Therefore your answer is: A Chevrolet 427 can be had in either Big Block or Small Block configurations.