New driver questions(taylormade)?
I made the school golf team last week and recently got new irons which have helped immensly. I have a crappy driver and am in the market for a new one. I was looking at the r9 supertri, r9 superdeep or the burner superfast 2.0. Unfortunately I don't know my swing speed but if that is crucial to the choice then I'll go figure it out. I have a tendency to go right a bit when i do hit bad but keep them straight for the most part. I do want more distance but I am looking for accuracy over distance which is why I'm considering thr supertri over the super deep. Th superfast is new and the dame price but i don't know too much about it because it's new. I would say I drive the ball consistently 200 with this club on a fly but it's also a piece of crap.. My new irons added about 15 yards to each club and I'm looking forward to hittin this farther also if this make any difference on selection, I am goin to get a 10.5 for which ever one I get so I can get a bit more height on it Thanks for any input you can give( I am also open to other drivers but I like the reviews of these ones and I tried an r7 today and loved the feel of it.. Also, budget of 350 dollars which makes the r11 outta the question
I hit my driver very low all the time. How can I fix this? Is it because of the loft or flex of my club?
While loft and flex will be factors......I'd say you may have a swing flaw or two coming into play here. I'll be darned if I can give you a fix since I can't see what you are actually doing. My advice is to find a teaching pro to look at your swing......Its probably a real easy fix.
How do you know when to use a 9.5 or 10.5 degree loft driver?
I've fit literally thousands of players over the years of all abilities for golf clubs and golf balls and in my experience almost everyone launches the ball too low, and I can count the number of players on one hand who actually launched it too high.Usually when a player "hits the ball too high" it's due to excessive backspin...the launch is low but the spin causes the ball to climb like the green line:Working with a club fitter in-person would be the recommended way to determine your specs, but if for some reason you are unable to I would suggest the 10.5*. There is a much better chance of launching the 9.5* too low than launching the 10.5* too high.
What is the difference between tour and regular golf clubs, i.e. the TaylorMade Rocketballz clubs?
"Regular" or 'standard' golf clubs are designed with the average duffer in mind. i.e. the Weekend Warriors who want to play as much as possible but rarely devote any time to practice.. (99.9% of the playing public) So, those clubs are manufactured to provide the average golfer with the best possible "mis-hit". They have a much larger "sweet spot" which helps get the ball both in the air and moving farther toward the target when the ball isn't hit squarely on the club face. They also typically have some type of "offset" to promote a straighter ball flight (more draw spin) to reduce the "slice", the most common miss from the average golfer. In a word, non-tour golf clubs are "Forgiving". "Tour" clubs are what they sound like they are: Clubs designed with the better player in mind. i.e. anyone who plays on a tour, could play on a tour (or mini-tour), and/or those with (feasible) aspirations to play on a tour. They are smaller, have a thinner top-line (view looking down at the club at address) and subsequently have a smaller sweet-spot. They have less (or no) offset than regular clubs as well. The biggest advantage (IMHO) to "tour" clubs is their "workability" i.e. the ability to hit shots both left and right on demand. My first set of "tour" clubs were Mizuno MP-30's. I called them "butter knives" because they were so thin looking down at them at address. They were difficult to hit on the sweet spot but this difficulty also caused me to practice more and as a result my handicap dropped and I ultimately got it down to +2. Those days are long gone but I do still use the "tour" clubs because of the feel and the look that I desire in a golf club.If you're not regularly scoring in the low eighties to mid seventies then suffice it to say that your chances of playing on any tour are pretty slim. In my opinion it would be best to avoid the hype, the added price tag and the psychology behind "tour" clubs and opt for an easier to hit, more forgiving "cavity back" or 'regular' set of irons. These clubs will help you have more FUN, reduce the use of frowned upon four letter words and most importantly SPEED UP THE GAME!!! ;)Good luck... Grip it and rip it!
What does it mean for a golf club to be a "tour" model?
On a driver the tour models face will be either square or a couple degrees open to counteract a hook whereas a standard drivers will be a couple degrees closed or offset.In irons the tour model will have less offset than the game improvement irons because the game improvement irons are designed to help square the club face to counteract the slice of many high handicappers where the more skilled player doesn't have a problem with this.Hope this helps.
What clubs are in your golf bag?
Driver — Taylor Made M2, 10.5 degrees, reg flex3-wood — Taylor Made M2, reg flex5-wood — Taylor Made RocketBallz, reg flex7-wood — Taylor Made M2, reg flex5 hybrid — Taylor Made M2, reg flex6-iron — Taylor Made RBladz, graphite shaft, reg flex7-iron — Taylor Made RBladz, graphite, reg flex8-iron — Taylor Made RBladz, graphite, reg flex9-iron — Taylor Made RBladz, graphite, reg flexPitching wedge — Taylor Made RBladz, graphite, reg flexA-wedge — Taylor Made RBladz, 50 degrees, graphite, reg flexSand wedge — Titleist BV SM6 S grind, 54 degrees loft, 10 degrees bounce, steel shaftLob wedge — Cleveland RTX 588 Rotex 2.0, 60 degrees loft, 10 degrees bounce, steel shaftPutter — Odyssey Versa (2), Super Stroke oversize gripMy lob wedge has more bounce than usual because I use it to get out of the extremely deep bunkers on the Lake Course at the Olympic Club. Can’t hit it high enough with even my old 56 degree wedge.