Is it true Shell Gas Stations put water in their gas?
no,but all gas contains some water due to condensation within the tanks,however water settles to the bottom of the tank and does not get picked up until you run out of gas. if this worrys you,just add gas line deicer or gas line antifreeze,and you will have no worrys.this changes the melecular structure of the gas and water negating the effects
How much should it cost to replace a gas tank? How do you know if you are being overcharged?
The tank itself isn't all that expensive. The lion's share of the cost will be the labor involved. If you know the shop's labor rate ...I'm guessing in the neighborhood of $85/hr or so ...and it will probably take at least 3 hours to do ...doing the math (3 x 85) ...brings labor in the $300 range. Add the new tank, for which you'll pay at least double (maybe more) the listed retail price for the part (this upcharging for parts is standard practice at *any* shop), and you're looking to lighten your wallet by at least $500 ...probably closer to $700 when "rag charges", "environmental charges" and taxes are added.To do the job, the first thing done is to empty the fuel tank of gasoline. The shop may suggest you conssider replacing the fuel pump ...especially if this is an older/high mileage vehicle. Labor to replace the fuel pump ...which livesinside your gas tank ...will essentially be the same as replacing the gas tank. If the tank is being replaced because it's rusting internally and rusting through, then there's a very good chance the fuel filter ...which is integral with the fuel pump, will be clogged with rust particles. If you have an older vehicle with a sepearate fuel filter then consider having the fuel filter replaced as part of the gas tank swap. Cars with fuel injection will have an electric fuel pump inside the gas tank. When the fuel pump dies, the car dies ...engine quits ...right there ...boom. Dead. Hopefully that doesn't happen while merging onto, or driving on, the Freeway. But when it happens it won't be good. You'll need a tow.And why do you think the shop is trying to overcharge you? You have *ZERO* idea what's involved in getting your car back into good health. You are paying for the *expertise* and skill of the mechanic working on your car to make a repair you, yourself, are incapable of doing ...nor do you fully grasp the ramifications of the job. But you think the shop is gonna rip you off. So go around and get second opinions ...from other shops in your area. But do yourself a *big* favor and do not select the cheapest shop ...better to find a highly reputable shop that does exceptionally competent work ...and pay a little more for this. You want the repair done right the first time and you don't want to come back; pay the extra money. A wise car owner will have a "maintenance fund" on hand ...funded with about $1000 ...in order to address major repairs.
Is a 1994 bmw 740il a good car and on gas?
Hell ya. I own 3 bmws. I luv them, and never woul get another car besides bmw. If the car is manual ur gonna get better gas mileage. The 740il is sporty and fast so u will use some gas, prolly not ne mroe than ne other car really. For example, my 325i only takes 35.00 bucks to fill it. And my 750il only takes 38.00. I would reccomend that car epsecially if it has low miles and looks good. I would ask about the water pump and t-stat before u buy it, cause they will go out after 100,000 miles or so. They are pretty cheap and easy to put in though if they are bad. Ne other questions email me back at ddawg4581@yahoo.com
How do I know if my radiator is "blocked" (not circulating coolant)?
First make sure your thermostat is working, that is a much more common problem than a radiator being blocked.If you're sure your thermostat is working (either by carefully feeling the coolant hose coming out of it to confirm it is hot or going so far as to remove it completely as a test if it's easily accessible), then carefully see if the hose leaving the radiator is warm.If your radiator is partially blocked and causing coolant to go through it more slowly than it should, the symptoms should be variable with outside temperature and vehicle speed (whereas with a thermostat it should be pretty much the same under all conditions). For example, it will be hotter sitting in traffic than at highway speed. What is more common than an internally blocked radiator (though of course that does happen) is an externally blocked radiator where road debris and dried bugs are preventing air from passing through it and hampering its ability to cool things down. Visually inspect both the front and the back. If dirty, ou can literally take a garden hose to it and should notice a differnece immediately (if it is your problem). Even if it is not visibly dirty, make sure the air from the fan is passing through it to the engine side. And while we're on the topic of fans, make sure yours is working. That's also a much more common problem than an internally blocked radiator.Again, seriously, be careful, the components will be hot.
What causes a car to lose power while driving?
In modern cars with engine management systems, it is the system itself that reduces power if it detects a problem with the engine. A warning light will come and and the engine will go into 'limp home' mode, where speed it usually limited to 80km/h or lower. Any number of things can cause this, but usually it relates to loss of something important, like a coolant leak, or low oil pressure. Sometimes it can also be a false positive due to a fault in the management system itself.All internal combustion engines require three things to work; compression, fuel and ignition. Degradation of any one of theses will result in lower engine performance.Loss of compression can result from engine wear, common in engines with several hundred thousand kilometers on the clock. Engine efficiency is lost because gasses can escape past the piston rings. Mechanical failure such as a blown head gasket can cause a similar loss.Blockages or degradation of the fuel supply, such as a worn fuel pump will cause loss of power for obvious reasons.Ignition faults stem from things such as a cracked distributor head, worn spark plugs, worn ignition coil or faulty spark plug leads. They generally result in some cylinders not igniting the fuel/air mix, thus reducing the power.Loss of lubricant or coolant will cause the engine to overheat and then seize. In this case, loss of power is 100%.Worn bearings in the engine will usually not reduce power much, they will keep working, making more and more noise, and then fail catastrophically, causing the engine to seize.It is also possible for timing chains to slip, adjustment screws to loosen in the carburetor, exhaust manifolds to develop leaks , and other minor mechanical faults to occur that will reduce engine power. This can happen suddenly or gradually over time.
Why does my check engine light come on after getting gas?
As many have mentioned, it's not simple to answer without more information. There are a number of emmisions fault codes that can occur when fueling for a variety of reasons. Heres a few-Various leak codes. The fuel tank isn't just a can with a pipe in from the filler neck and a pipe out to the fuel line to the motor. There is also also ventilation system that corrects for tank pressure changes allowing air to enter when needed while keeping fuel vapor from escaping, and can pull that fuel vapor into the intake system of the engine.The most common leak issue is a loose or misplaced filler cap that causes a major leak code. Next is a failed seal on the fuel filler cap causing a minor lack code. After that you have the charcoal canister shutoff valve sticking open due to a mechanical failure or due to debris from the charcoal canister caused by impact, consistent over filling, or age. Next would be the purge valve sticking open or closed. Finally hard system leaks such as a cracked hose or seal at the level sensor assembly.Overfilling can affect the charcoal canister by degrading the charcoal filter and causing the valve to stick. This system was only designed for vapor and not liquid fuel.As the fuel tank is semi flexible, the weight of the fuel will normally distort the tank and allow for some leaks due to dried or failed seals to be fuel level dependent.Finally there are the weird ones… found a low-jack transmitter installation gone awry. The installer screwed the mount through the floor under the seat into the fuel tank. Once he realized fuel was leaking on the ground he pulled the screw out, out some sealant on it and screwed it back in the hole. The customer only got a minor leak code when they had a full tank and the weight pulled the tank down off the screw.Found couple plastic tanks cracked at a seam. Also found issues due to distortion and swelling of the plastic tank from E85 and MTBE. There were a few metal tanks with braised hose junctions that separated. One tank actually collapsed and crushed due to a stuck shutoff valve and a bad sensor.Good luck.