How do you hook up car subwoofers without an amplifier?
Dude, you don’t. The subwoofers usually have 10″ cones and massive magnets to get all the surface area moving. You need some serious power to drive that and you will need at least 1,000 watts of power to drive your system and perhaps even multiple amplifiers with crossovers to optimize the sound.
How can I bypass the factory amplifier in a Chrysler 300m?
Please edit your question with the model year of the vehicle, and I can give you a detailed answer. Edit: it's very easy to bypass the factory amp and install a new amplifier in this vehicle. Here's a detailed wiring diagram: http://crutchfield.custhelp.com/app/answ... Unlike many factory amplified systems, the stock head unit actually produces a high level output (ie, even without the amp, the head unit would be capable of driving speakers on its own). That means you'll need an amplifier with a high-level input, which is very common; or you'll need a 4-channel line output converter, which is fairly easy to find. Just locate the factory amp--I think it will be mounted under the rear deck in the trunk, but it might be in the passenger kick panel (that's the area to the right of the passenger's feet). Locate the wires in the diagram labeled "input" on the amplifier diagram, and either extend them directly to the after-market amp's high-level input, or connect a line output converter and run RCA cables to the new amp. The wire labeled "remote" can be connected to the after-market amp's remote terminal. You can connect the speaker outputs from the new amp directly to the speaker wires at the factory amp location; this eliminates the need to run new speaker wiring through the vehicle. Just make sure the factory amp is completely disconnected when you're done--you don't want to have the new amp and the factory amp both connected to the speakers. If you have any other specific questions about this project, let me know.
Where can I find the radio wiring diagram for a 2001 Chrysler Sebring Convertible?
I'm trying to hook up my subwoofer into my car so I need to splice the wire into the radio, but I can't find any of the colors in my book for my car that match with the radio, all help is appreciated
Interior lights on my 2001 Chrysler 300m won't turn off?
Myself and a friend installed some subwoofers into my car earlier today and afterwards I noticed that my interior lights will not turn off. My doors are closed all the way, and the same with my trunk. I do not know what the problem is. Could anyone give some possibilities? P.S. These subs are located in my trunk and hit HARD. Maybe that had something to do with it? I do not think it is the wiring because he only messed with the wiring to my stereo and my battery.
I had new speaker and amp installed and now car won't start! Can this be caused by bad installation?
Oh these are always fun. Though I can't give you a diagnosis over email, I can tell you it is 100% possible to kill a car with a stereo installation. Your amplifier needs a signal to turn on or it will stay on always and kill your battery. Stereo install guys turn on the car and stab a test light into random wires looking for one powered only when the car is turned on. Unfortunately they have been known to splice into a CAN data bus. The CAN network in charge of communication for your security and locking could be disabled keeping your key from being authorized. Or the CAN network for your chassis systems can be shut down that deals with communication for your engine, transmission, and typically traction control. A CAN network is typically a 5 volt system but it suplies power in micro amps as it is only used for communication and not supplying a load such as switching a relay, lighting a bulb, or spinning a motor. Splicing into these to supply the relay to turn on the amp effectively grounds the circuit and does not allow for the digital signal to propogate. Sometimes it easier and they just blew a fuse while poking around with a test light, or shorted a harness by running a screw through it while mounting components. Had a lowjack installer put a screw through a floorboard and into a fuel tank once, cause a check engine light due to an emissions test, luckily it didn't burn down the car first. I have fixed at least a dozen of these problems on Benz's in the shop after a car got towed in from the stereo shop.
How to install an LOC?
So I have a truconnex TC-LOC2 and it has 2 brown wires, 2 black and white wires, and 2 white wires. How do I connect these wires to the wires in the back of my radio? I'm trying to install my subs tomorrow so I really need some help with this thanks so much!!!
I have a subwoofer in my trunk and i need to unhook it...?
Do you need to remove the amp from the back of the seat, or just remove the sub box? If you just need to remove the box, you don't have to disconnect the power from the amp. Just disconnect the speaker wire from the sub box, and tape off the ends of the wire so they can't short on anything. There's no problem with keeping power on the amp while the box is disconnected. If you need to remove the amp, start by removing the fuse from the power wire near the battery. After that you can disconnect all the wires from the amplifier terminals and remove the amp. The only wire that needs to be taped up is the small wire on the "remote" terminal; this wire is often blue, and should be connected near the main power and ground wires. You don't have to tape off the power, ground, or speaker wires as long as there's no fuse in the fuse holder near the battery.
Are car parts really designed with obsolescence in mind so they wear out?
There are some very incorrect answer in this thread. "Planned obsolescence" is a fallacy.The "big 3" US automakers have reliability requirements for powertrains (and most other components) that demand the demonstration of a MINIMUM 15 year/150,000 mile life at a 90% reliability level with 90% confidence (this is a statistical calculation). This is typically set for what is described as the "95th percentile customer use case," and usually much more severe. This means very abusive testing. For example, when I was running durability testing 20 years ago, we had to run engines for 200 consecutive hours at the rated power speed plus 500 rpm at wide open throttle. In the case of our 1.6L engine, just 300 rpm below redline. What we called the "Autobahn test." This was just one of several very abusive tests. Any part that failed was redesigned and revalidated before production.Parts subject to OBDII requirements have the reliability demonstration set at 95%. Parts are not 'designed to fail' at 150,000 miles. They simply cannot be tested indefinitely prior to production. They are quite often tested to failure or to 3 times life (whichever comes first) to understand the failure distribution and that they will last at least 150,000 miles. This really isn't any different for European or Japanese manufacturers either. Powertrains today are extremely durable and reliable, and it isn't unusual for them to last for 300,000 or 400,000 miles before requiring a rebuild or replacement of certain components. In fact given that the average age of a car on the road in the US today is 11 years, the average car on the road probably already has 150,000 miles on it.
What causes fuses to blow?
Various reasons can cause a fuse to repeatedly blow. A fuse is placed in a circuit as a safety measure and is expected to blow if the conditions against which it is to guard are violated. The conditions under which fuses may blow repeatedly are as follows:wrong power rating of fuse- a fuse placed at a certain point in a circuit monitors the current passing through that point and is rated as such to prevent a flow in excess of the limit that might be detrimental to the well-being of the circuit elements beyond that point, however, putting the wrong rating of fuse (under-rated) might cause it to give in even under normal circuit conditions.abnormal circuit conditions- there may be short circuit or abnormal conditions due to some failure which might be causing the circuit to draw heavily on the system in excess of nominal value rated for the circuit.wrong type of fuse- some circuits are designed to be protected by a slow blow fuse and this can be a problem if one replaces with a fast blow fuse. Under certain given conditions, a circuit may have a reason to delay the cutting off of power till some modules are operated into rest position and thus necessitate a slow blow fuse to cater for that and this must still be replaced with one of the same kind for good operation of the circuit and to have the desired effect.dead short-circuit : some component might be failing under load (perhaps due to overheating or something) and creating a path of less resistance and thus causing the circuit current to rise to above critical levels and subsequently blowing the fuse. It might be an intermittent fault that will need to be put under observation. Some trouble-shooting tip might be to have a can of cool-jet or some other compound to give cooling effect to spray on suspicious components to find out the culprit, if it is a case of overheating.