How far can I drive with a bad wheel bearing?
Main thing is - get it fixed PDQ (pretty darn quick). Driving with a bad wheel bearing can cause the axle/hub/spindle to weld itself from friction and heat causing the wheel to lock up and spin you out. More likely, the metal will wear away from the friction and the wheel/hub will become loose. If the affected wheel has a disc brake, the brake caliper and rotor might hold the wheel onto the axle for a while, but will eventually fail too.I drove a car I had just bought in a different state about 2,000 miles (3,200 Km) to get back home. The front wheel bearings were whining the whole time, but the wheels were still fairly tight (negligible play). One of the first things I ordered upon arriving home was a new set of wheel bearings.If you jack up the vehicle and there is any play (i.e.: slackness or wiggle) in the affected wheel(s), don't drive the vehicle because you might just get overtaken by your own wheel (no longer attached to & supporting the vehicle) while driving down the road. Any play in the wheel could also be caused by worn suspension and/or steering components which should also be replaced PDQ (and a wheel alignment done post repair). Again, this could cause a wheel to come out from under the vehicle and/or point in a different direction and cause you to have a wreck.Get it fixed posthaste.<><
How do you open the hood of a locked car with a dead battery?
I find it interesting that the answers all say to stick the key in the door and unlock it. It's not that easy. The Volvo V40, and most, if not all post 2000 Volvo autos, as well as most current vw auto group cars, Mercedes, BMW, and several Japanese autos lock and unlock the doors electronically, meaning that they use the power lock solenoid, not linkages to the lock mechanisms. In order to unlock the doors to release the hood latch, one must raise the vehicle and connect a battery charger or jumper cable to the starter + terminal and to the vehicle chassis to activate the electrical system or charge the battery. One must be very careful not to short the positive lead to ground as this may cause damage, and one must also take care to assure that, when the vehicle is raised, it is safely ad properly supported with safety stands and wheel chocks to assure his/her personal safety. It may just be easier/safer to contact a towing company or roadside assistance (if offered through your auto insurance, this is definitely the best way to go) and have them perform the tasks necessary to assist you in releasing the locks to provide you access to the vehicle. Good luck.
How do you tighten wheel lug nuts without torque wrench?
How do you tighten wheel lug nuts without torque wrench?Try not to.If you have to use a lug wrench, do this as a temporary measure (i.e.: changing a flat on the side of the road). As soon as possible, you need to have those lug nuts correctly tightened!Once upon a time, virtually all cars came with steel wheels and had drum brakes all the way around. With those, as long as you didn’t leave any of the nuts loose, you were generally all right.Nowadays, however, the majority of cars have alloy wheels and most also have four wheel disc brakes.Alloy wheels expand and contract at a different rate than iron and steel do, and after 50 to 100 miles lug nuts need to be checked and/or tightened, commonly known in the industry as ‘re-torqued’. This is because they can loosen after the first time! Additionally, unevenly tightened lug nuts can distort brake rotors (the ‘discs’ in ‘disc brakes’) so you get a noisy wobble when you step on the brake pedal.You don’t need a great torque wrench for lug nuts. The precise torque isn’t as important as making sure that all the lugs on a wheel are tightened to the same degree so the load is evenly applied. For most cars, I use 90 lbs.-feet, and 100 on light trucks using a slightly larger diameter lug. On a smaller car I might use 85 pounds feet. That 90 lbs.-ft. figure is assuming your lug nuts and wrench are 19mm or 3/4″. A 1/2″ drive torque wrench from Harbor Freight or a discount store should be fine for wheel lugs, though I’d suggest getting a higher quality one for most anything else. A ‘click’ type would be best, since it can be hard to read the scale on one that isn’t when doing wheel lugs. Just be sure that you STOP applying pressure when you hear one click. If you hear two clicks before you stop pushing or pulling, you’ve overshot your desired torque. Do be sure to reset your torque wrench to either ‘STOP’ or a low setting before you put it away in order to maintain some semblance of calibration.
How much would an automatic to manual transmission swap cost?
It depends on what vehicle and what manual transmission. In general, on a rear wheel drive vehicle, swapping out the auto for a stock style manual isn’t terrible. Stock manual transmission assemblies can run anywhere from $1000 to $2000 on common vehicles. Removal and replace usually takes between 5 and 8 hours. Adding a clutch pedal and mounting a cylinder depends on the vehicle and again, whether it is aftermarket or stock bolt in. The problem is, you can’t always just bolt stock replacements back in. If the parts aren’t modular, then adding a pedal can take some time.Swapping out the flex plate for a flywheel and installing a clutch only adds about 15 minutes to the overall labor time.I doubt that manual and auto trans on any vehicle are exactly the same length, so the driveline probably needs to be cut and re-welded. This part of the job would be outsourced by most shops and may run 100–300 bucks. Measuring everything properly so accurate info can be given to the driveline shop takes time. Pinion angles must be checked with the new driveline and in some cases must be adjusted which sometimes requires different spacers being installed under the rear axle.Measuring and cutting a hole for the shifter and boot takes time. Re-wiring the neutral safety switch takes time as well.So, you have the parts cost of transmission, pedal assembly, reservoir, clutch fluid hose or cable, clutch kit, flywheel, driveline modification, any additional brackets that must be bought or made, shifter boot and neutral safety switch swap.Then you have the standard labor of removing and installing the trans, plus the extra labor of making everything work. The extra labor cost is very hard to pin down without knowing what vehicle and if you are going with nice, aftermarket parts or trying to stick with stock parts.Trying to covert a front wheel drive vehicle to manual has potential to be easier. It would be (possibly) easier and cheaper to just buy a complete motor/trans assembly and swap out the whole thing. Sensors might need to be modified and some holes cut in the firewall, but anything can be done.So, I dont know. On old trucks you might be able to do it for 2500 if you buy all new components. On newer vehicles it gets more and more expensive the newer you get as more and more components must be modified or swapped.
Can you drive a car with a motor mount that needs to be fixed and how far?
As long as it’s not completely broken you should be able to drive it. You can test the motor mount, to see how bad it is before driving the vehicle. You’ll need an assistant.Open the hood of your vehicle.You need an assistant to watch and see how much the engine moves when you press on the accelerator with the brakes applied.Have your assistant stand to the side (not in front of the vehicle) and observe the engine while you do the following procedure.Start the vehicle.Make sure nobody is in front of you in case the brakes fail and the vehicle lurches forward.Engage the emergency break and hold your foot firmly on the brake pedal to prevent the vehicle from moving.Put the vehicle in DriveWithout letting up on the breaks, gently press on the accelerator to rev the engine slightly.If the engine moves just a few inches then the motor mount is bad but it’s probably still safe to drive it for a while longer.If the engine moves more than a few inches then it may not be a good idea to drive it at all. What you want to avoid is the situation where the engine is able to move far enough that it collides with the hood or other components in the engine compartment.