What kind of brake fluid for 1995 gmc yukon.?
the master cylinder is inside the engine bay attached to the firewall directly opposite form the steering wheel...there will be 2 containers and one cap...this is where you put the fluid good luck
GMC Yukon frame swap?
I have a 1995 GMC Yukon four door. I’m looking at what trucks I can frame swap with. Before anyone says it, no I will not just buy a newer truck and save the trouble. The obs is the body style I’m sticking with, and I want to do something outside of the box. So I would like to go with a newer Yukon Denali, making the frame swap and interior swap into my older truck. But what options are there where the wheel base matches up to work for me?
My 95 Yukon won't start it just clicks I checked my alternator battery and starter n there fine what could it ?
How did you check them? Do you have a aftermarket alarm system installed? To Test: 1. Access the starter relay in the under-hood electrical center and locate the B+ terminal with the key off. 2. Use a jumper wire and jump from the B+ terminal to the opposite terminal on the relay (terminals 30 and 87). Check for the starter motor to run. If not, check for a open wire/bad starter. 3. If the starter does run check power to the relay when in the crank position and relay ground. 4. If the power side is OK, check the ground side. A stud/bolt type fastener is located on the lower front corner of the engine block (right in front of the engine where a mechanical fuel pump used to be installed on the old engines).
My yukon won't go in reverse ?
Usually if you lose reverse its something in the transmission. You can check the fluid but I am pretty sure the problem is more in the reverse gear of the transmission. What is the mileage on the vehicle? that tells the story right then and there. Generally any time after 130 thousand miles the aluminum parts the factory had the tranny built with fail and you lose overdrive first but you never know. What is the mileage on the transmission?
What are reasons your steering wheel won't lock?
I assume that you are referring to your steering wheel not locking in position after you stop the vehicle and take out the key?There are several possible reasons for this.1. The cog that fits into the detent on the steering column is broken and needs to be replaced.2. The detent on the steering column is worn or broken3. You have not turned the wheel far enough for the cog to find a detent. Pull the wheel first to the left, and then to the right to find the spot.4. The actuator from the solenoid to the cog is broken.To repair this will require the cover on the steering column to be removed, and probably need to have the steering wheel removed as well. Take it to a qualified shop or dealer for this. Incorrect actions could result in damage to the parts, or even the deployment of the air bag on the steering wheel. The exact disassembly required will differ for each manufacturer and possible model of vehicle. If you have a Chilton's manual for your vehicle, you can look up the repair to see what is involve.
The anti-theft in my car won't turn off. What should I do?
Answer from WikiHow. Can be found here as well.Some cars have an automatic theft system built in that can sometimes become activated without any threats. Here is how you can correct this problem without causing your battery to die.Method 1:Turning the Theft System Off from Inside the Car1 Check for a light on the dashboard. It will say System on "Theft System" or something similar.2 Make sure nothing is loose if you tried to take anything apart.3 Check to see if the battery has not been drained. At that point the car will not do any thing, except make a slight effort to start. If the battery is dead, ask someone to help jump start it for you.4 Place the key in the ignition, and turn it slightly to the right. This is also known as position 2, in which the car is on but the engine is off. This gives power to the necessary components to allow this method of bypassing the alarm to work. When you turn the key the radio should work, and the dash lights should light up.5 Keep the key that way for ten minutes, maybe a little more. The theft system light should turn off, and the car can be started.Method 2Turning the Theft System Off Outside of the Car1 Insert the key in the driver's side door. Even if you have a keyless entry, you'll want to use the actual, physical car key and place it in the lock on the outside of the driver's side door.2 Turn the key and hold it. Turn the key so that you unlock the door, but hold it in place for several seconds. This can sometimes bypass the factory alarm and allow you to start the vehicle. This method lets the vehicle know that you have the actual key to the vehicle and in most cases will bypass in the even the key fob (the part that permits keyless entry) is broken, misplaced, or has a dead battery. This method most commonly works in BMW's, Mercedes, and VW's.
My brake lights don't work, but my tail lights do. What should I do?
Check the brake light fuse in fuse box that could be blown, and also check to see if the brake light switch is bad, it should be located under the dash and the plunger of the switch should be touching the brake pedal arm. Also check, if they are on the same bulb, that the combination brake light, and taillight bulbs are in working order, or if separate bulbs, that the brake light bulbs are not blown out.If all of those components are in working order, and the brake lights still do not operate, then all of the wiring from the fuse box to the brake light switch, to the brake lights and to the bulb sockets will need to be checked for broken wires, and loose, or corroded connections at any of the above mentioned components.
What are some symptoms of too much transmission fluid?
Excess transmission fluid will cause foaming in any transmission. Foam does not flow like oil, reducing cooling and lubrication. It also implodes on compression between gears or in the hydraulics of automatic transmissions, causing severe damage (pitting).In an automatic transmission, you will have higher temperatures and poor shifting, as it depends on solid hydraulic pressure, not spongy foam to move the clutches and bands.Automatic transmissions with dip sticks should be measured with the engine running, and consider the operating temperature. Note here how the heat affects the measurement. It should not be filled to the top when cold, or checked not running.If it does not have a dipstick, it is measured with the plugs on the side, depending on specific instructions per brand of car.Manual transmissions normally don't have dipsticks (some do). They are checked from a plug on the side of the transmission, and the level should normally be at the level of the plug, not above.
Vortec or Throttle Body Injection?
Ran across a deal on a Tahoe and a Yukon... One was a 95 and the other a 96... other than the fact that one is a Chev and the other is a GMC, I didn’t expect there to be a difference. HOWEVER... I found out that the 95 Tahoe has a Throttle Body injection Motor... and I have no experience with these and don’t know much about them. My questions: Are Throttle Body motors less (or more) reliable than the Vortec? (I have a suburban with the vortec 5700 and it’s been indestructible) Is there a reason I would want to pick one over the other? I would be doing a bit of towing... which is the better pick? I would also be doing a lot of long distance highway trips... Is there a difference in the mileage? Is there anything that i need to know one way or the other?