01 Grand Prix Oil in Coolant ?
Intake manifold gasket, head gasket. The 3.1L is notorious for intake gaskets and head gaskets. The way they are designed the intake is part of the head. They are bad about getting air locked which makes hot spots in the engine and the rest of the system. Don't keep driving it get it fixed or quit driving it now. What will end up happening is the motor will get hot inside then when you shut it off the coolant will bleed back into the cylinder. This will cause the motor to hydraulic lock this can happen while you are cranking it to start it or can happen at 70 mph. When this happens the engine will come to a complete stop instantly. This will bust a wrist pin in a piston or snap a rod. Best thing to do would be to buy or rent a pressure tester from auto zone. Pump the amount of pressure into it that your cap says like 13 to 15 pounds. Let it sit awhile watch for the pressure to bleed down. Look for leaks if you don't find any but do have a loss of pressure then pull the plugs before trying to start it crank it over a few times with plugs out.The sad part is that what most likely caused this is believe it or not the radiator cap. Sound silly but trust me it is one of the cheapest expensive parts on a car. It may not say on the gage that it is not hot. The sensor measure water temp not steam temp if there is a air pocket in the motor it will not show it to be over heated. Hope this will help.
How do I repair a 1993 Toyota Camry with a trouble code 31? I checked the map wiring, replaced the map sensor & hose & still having issues.?
Just a few days after having my 1993 Toyota Camry smogged (It passed)I started noticing a issue with erratic idling, stalling, and running very rich. I replaced spark plugs, plug wires, and air filter. I used a Lucas treatment in the gas tank , changed the pil, and started using 91 fuel. This seemed to help a little but was still having the same issues. Finally the check engine light came on. I retrieved the trouble code 31 which stated it was a map sensor issue. I checked the map sensor wiring with a voltage meter (which was fine), replaced the map sensor and it s attached hose. I reset the ecm and the car was running great for the first couple of short drives then went right back to the same thing. The check engine light came on and it was a code 31 again. Now the car is running the worst it ever has. Could it be the ecm? Or the air flow meter signsl? I ve come this far so I hate to hive up but, I m starting to get frustrated and don t want to start replacing parts that don t nred to be replaced. I would appreciate any suggestions and/or advice on properly repairing this vehicle. Thank you so much☺
Where is the fuel filter on a 2001 toyota corolla?
uh its under the air box,not right under but look behind towards the rack you will see it
Why does the gas pump keep stopping when my tank isn’t full?
Question: “Why does the gas pump keep stopping when my tank is not full?”I have owned and worked on and built high performance engines since the 1960’s.Although it is possible that your car’s filler tube is damaged and restricted, that would have been caused either by an accident or by the removal and improper re-installation of the gas tank. If so, you would be aware of the problem, and it is unlikely you would be asking the question on Quora.The more likely explanation is that the vapor recovery system on the car is damaged.This system vents the fuel vapors from the fuel tank into a canister filled with absorbent granulated charcoal and then into the engine intake manifold, preventing the gases from venting off into to air and adding to pollution. (Older cars did vent gas fumes directly into the atmosphere. That is why you can smell raw gas at any display of classic cars.)In a modern car, if these fumes are not vented off, pressure will build up as you try to fill your gas tank, especially if you are doing so quickly. When the pump nozzle assembly senses this increased pressure it registers it as a full or nearly full tank and shuts off the flow of the gasoline from the pump to the nozzle. Think of that like trying to quickly fill a Coke bottle with water from a quickly flowing kitchen faucet. The air in the bottle has to escape before the liquid can go in.There are several points where the Evaporative Emissions Control System on your car could fail and create the problem you are experiencing. Vacuum lines might have been pinched or damaged. The solenoid valve may be sticking. But the most likely problem is that you have a clogged or damaged EVAP Canister.Your EVAP Canister looks like this,or like this.It is located in the engine compartment, low in the chassis, probably at the front.Why did the Evaporative Emissions Canister fail? Well, you broke it. Or someone else who fuels the car broke it.Did you ever continue to add gas to the tank, in an effort to add another gallon, after the nozzle clicks off? Well, in doing so you flooded the EVAP Canister by forcing liquid gasoline up lines that were meant to handle vapors. You saturated the charcoal media within the EVAP canister and prevented it from acting as a vapor recovery/transfer media.Your fueling problem can be resolved by replacing the EVAP Canister. Unfortunately, these things can be expensive.
How much should it cost to replace a gas tank? How do you know if you are being overcharged?
The tank itself isn't all that expensive. The lion's share of the cost will be the labor involved. If you know the shop's labor rate ...I'm guessing in the neighborhood of $85/hr or so ...and it will probably take at least 3 hours to do ...doing the math (3 x 85) ...brings labor in the $300 range. Add the new tank, for which you'll pay at least double (maybe more) the listed retail price for the part (this upcharging for parts is standard practice at *any* shop), and you're looking to lighten your wallet by at least $500 ...probably closer to $700 when "rag charges", "environmental charges" and taxes are added.To do the job, the first thing done is to empty the fuel tank of gasoline. The shop may suggest you conssider replacing the fuel pump ...especially if this is an older/high mileage vehicle. Labor to replace the fuel pump ...which livesinside your gas tank ...will essentially be the same as replacing the gas tank. If the tank is being replaced because it's rusting internally and rusting through, then there's a very good chance the fuel filter ...which is integral with the fuel pump, will be clogged with rust particles. If you have an older vehicle with a sepearate fuel filter then consider having the fuel filter replaced as part of the gas tank swap. Cars with fuel injection will have an electric fuel pump inside the gas tank. When the fuel pump dies, the car dies ...engine quits ...right there ...boom. Dead. Hopefully that doesn't happen while merging onto, or driving on, the Freeway. But when it happens it won't be good. You'll need a tow.And why do you think the shop is trying to overcharge you? You have *ZERO* idea what's involved in getting your car back into good health. You are paying for the *expertise* and skill of the mechanic working on your car to make a repair you, yourself, are incapable of doing ...nor do you fully grasp the ramifications of the job. But you think the shop is gonna rip you off. So go around and get second opinions ...from other shops in your area. But do yourself a *big* favor and do not select the cheapest shop ...better to find a highly reputable shop that does exceptionally competent work ...and pay a little more for this. You want the repair done right the first time and you don't want to come back; pay the extra money. A wise car owner will have a "maintenance fund" on hand ...funded with about $1000 ...in order to address major repairs.
Help!!! My Car Hydrolocked and wont start!?
Hi, I have a 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5s. The other night It rained very hard and almost flooded the streets of Michgan. And me crazy as i am decided to go visit a friend. on the way I hit 1-2 small puddles and they splashed up the side of my wheel and wheel well. Right where my Injen Cold Air Intake was. minutes later i felt the car slowly die due to hydrolocking. Once i was towed back to my house. I let it sit in the garage for the night with the CAI taken off. I cleaned it out n cleaned the filter as well. I decided since I don't have a Bypass Valve ill just turn it into a Short Ram Air intake, so I did. The next day, I pulled the spark plugs out and detached the connectors from the wires as well. Then cranked the engine to shoot out existing water. only alittle bit came out. So I drained the oil n replaced the oil filter. After letting sit for 30min-hour i cranked her again for a few seconds. but no water shot out. so I figured it was all out. This is when I added oil back to the engine and also a little bit of seafoam to help get rid of any existing water. With the new oil in, I cranked her again. then put new spark plugs in after spraying very little seafoam down the cylinders where the spark plugs go. I then decided to change the oil again just in case if one of the rods or pistons or etc. had cracked or snapped there would be metal shavings in the oil, but thank god there wasn't. so i refilled the oil in the engine again. after letting it sit in the engine for a good 30min I tried to start her up and it cranked but wouldn't start. I place a small heater under the engine(far enough not to melt or damage). and I let the engine warm up alittle bit to around 75 degrees then tried again. This time it turned over twice as if it were about to start but then just went back to cranking. i let it warm up more, and tried it again and the same thing happened again. This is where I started getting confused. I was wondering if water got somewhere else such as the distributor and that might have cause it not wanting to start.!? Idk Any ideas on what I should do next?!? Anything helps at this point!!! Thank you very much n may god bless you!!!