What are some fast growing plants that use a lot of sunlight?
You don’t mention what kinds of plants or to what purpose you wish to put them. Some answers here give good suggestions for food crops, most of which are annuals. An annual plant must go through its entire life cycle in one year, that is why they grow so quickly.Most annual flowers are champion growers as well: try zinnia, bachelor’s buttons, calendula, nasturtium, cosmos, or, for something really huge, sunflowers. Every year I fill up a couple of trellises flanking my back door with morning glories that grow from seed shed from last year’s vines. They grow very fast and would make a nice, fast-growing screen.If you want trees or shrubs, those of course will grow more slowly. Here is a list I found of fast-growing shade trees: Nice shades: 7 Fast growing shade trees to slash your electric bill.For perennial flowers, I have been impressed with heliopsis plants, some kinds of yarrow, Joe Pye Weed, and a kind of rudbeckia called Herbstsonne. I garden in the north, so someone who has a milder climate will probably know more kinds of perennials I don’t have experience with. Perennials come back for years, and it takes them two or three years to reach their full size.
How do I care for a rubber plant?
The rubber plant is the classic office plant, ideal for low light conditions and tolerant of most of the common abuses.Note that "low light" does not mean "no light". The room should be bright with artificial or natural light.Keep it out of direct light, that means back from the windowsThe soil should be moist at all times, but do not let the plant stand in a pool of water. A layer of pebbles under the pot (in the saucer) will keep the roots elevated if you happen to overwater. The pebble layer should be dry; the soil should be moist.A soil moisture meter is helpful for this type of plant. Use the meter to teach yourself how to tell when it is time to water. After a while you will be able to tell without the meter.It grows a lot of roots and so may need re-potting from time to time. If you cannot keep the soil moist by watering every other day, then it might be time to repot. Ideally you'd only water about 2 or 3 times a week, this is for your convenience, not a requirement of the plant itself.For fertilizer, diluted coffee (a cup of leftover coffee added to a quart of water) once a month should do the trick. (I'm not making this up, I do it myself.)Or coffee grounds from one pot of coffee added directly to the top of the soil. Must be cool, of course. I only do this with outdoor plants, so I can't say first hand. You might get a bit of an odour. Once a month would be plenty.http://forums2.gardenweb.com/for...
How should I plant a clematis to get it to climb a mailbox post?
Try to find a plant with buds low on the stem and two stems if possible. Plant after frost and as long as soil is not waterlogged. The soil must be fertile, well-drained, and humus rich. In heavy or adobe soil dig a big hole, preferably 24"x 24". In lighter or sandy soil, a hole 18"x18" will do the trick. Save only the best of your topsoil. Amend the soil as conditions dictate. Clematis root are very fragile so cut the container off gently. Gently remove the clematis rootball from the container and plant it in the hole so that the base of the plant's stems are sunk 3" to 5" below soil level. Leave the original stake on the clematis for the first year to act as a support as well as a protection against accidental breakage. Mulch the area around the plant 3" to 4" over the root zone. but keep the mulch well away from the stem to avoid stem rot. To encourage growth of more stems all clematis can be cut down to the lowest pair of healthy buds in their first Feb. after planting. This delays flowering on those that bloom on old growth but ensures new shoots and strong base growth. In spring, once the clematis buds are about 2 inches long begin feeding them. Clematis come in categories. The label will tell but pruning is important with clematis. Cat I no pruning Cat II light pruning Cat III hard pruning Small clematis only 6 1/2 feet; 'Edourd Desfosse', 'Corona", 'Westerplatte' (only 3 1/2 ft), 'Minister', 'Ice Blue' C. florida "Alba Plena' or 'Sieboldii' There are many small herbaceous scramblers but you would have to tie them to the post. Even climbers will need something fine enough for them to climb the post. Lee Valley sells a trellis for posts or down spouts. If you desire a larger clematis than your mail box will accomodate is there another plant like a rose or a tree for the clematis to climb onto?
I'd like to grow a plant to cover my fence. What are some suggestions for plants that can climb widely and are low maintenance and pleasant on the eyes?
Honeysuckle is a prolific grower if the fence is in full sun. However, it will completely cover your fence, never to be seen again. This is fine, if you don't mind not seeding your fence. Try for a native variety. Passionflower is nice as well and although prolific, slightly less-so than honeysuckle. It has pretty foliage. It's can be tender in winters so you want to make sure you're in zone 6 or warmer. A fun plant to grow along a fence if you want to have your fence covered and eat it too: pole beans (there are many types but make sure they're climbers as some are 'bush' beans). Types include green and lima. You can also try miniature gourds, cucumbers (gherkins are fun) and even larger gourds.Sweet Autumn Clematis is prolific and blooms white in the fall. It's the most abundant grower of the clematis'. You may want to also include clematis 'Jackmanii'.Morning glories are nice and bloom all summer long but the seeds will spread this plant in other places throughout your yard, so better be committed to them before planting.Avoid wisteria and trumpet vine. Once established, they will probably be waaay to heavy for the fence and cause it to collapse.