What is the procedure for painting concrete floors?
they make a product called etch it is available at the hardware store. this will prep your floor for paint. rustoleum makes a floor paint that comes with specs to sprinkle in it while it is wet. of course the floor needs to be dry and have no water issues, to test this tape a plastic bag 2 ft x 2 ft to the floor with duct tape wait 24 hours and lift to see if there are water droplets. no droplets good to go. you can also be creative by using different colors and taping off squares to make it look like tiles
Does the protective coating car dealerships pitch really make a difference?
I work at a dealership, and paint protection is one of the products offered with new car purchases. Whether it's worth it or not depends on the person and how important the paint appearance is to them. If small spots, tree pitch marks, and stains from bird droppings don't bother you, and you have a light-colored car (the darker the paint, the more visible any imperfections will be) it may not make sense for you to get it. Below is a photo I took of a client's car - she is here because bird droppings on the hood weren't cleaned off soon enough and it etched the paint. Paint protection that is offered at our dealership comes with a 7-year warranty, which means if something like this happens, it will be fixed or the damaged panel will be repainted at no extra charge. Modern clear coats are water-based more eco- and human- friendly but prove easier to damage.Get it if:-You typically like to keep your car pristine, and getting spots and stains will bother you-Your budget allows itDon't get it if you are leasing. Manufacturer won't charge you for every spot and scratch, especially if it's minor.Whether you purchase paint protection or not, clean bird droppinngs and tree pitch as soon as you possibly can, and avoid parking under trees! You'd be surprised how much damage those substances can do, especially if left out to bake in the sun.P.S. Please excuse the quality of the photo. I hope it's helpful!
Is it possible to paint an interior wall white with primer and not use a coat of paint over it?
It isn't that primer is "sticky" it's that when dry, primer is a dull, flat finish waiting to receive a nice topcoat or two of paint. :)If you simply left the surface in this primed condition, nothing terrible would happen necessarily, only the very things you are probably hoping to minimize by painting in the first place would start rearing their ugly heads much sooner.When you "prime" a surface, you are readying that surface for optimal painting conditions. These "optimal conditions" include (but are not limited to) a clean, sealed substrate that isn't shiny. Paint needs a relatively "rough" surface to be able to adhere well...primer is precisely this type of a "rough" surface.Remember the "not shiny" part for optimal conditions? The reason for this is that paint (and even most "run of the mill" primers) doesn't really want to bond to shiny, slick surfaces. The same goes for dirt, dust, oils, grease and whatever else your dog or children are tracking with them throughout the house. ;) This is why semi-gloss finishes are recommended in areas where mold might grow or wiping the walls regularly is expected (i.e. a poorly ventilated but regularly used bathroom with a shower/tub; a kitchen with a messy cook).Consequently, if walls are simply left primed and not painted, the opposite is true. Primer is dull (and actually appears rough on a microscopic level) and is ready and willing to allow just about any type of contaminate to go ahead and have a seat. Since the color you've specified is white, I'm assuming almost any kind of crud that might get tracked through the house is a noticeably different color than white and will just look dirty on that clean, white surface...unless...I hope this clarifies your inquiry. If painting AND priming are just simply not in the budget or you only have enough time to do one or the other, I'd advise you to just clean the walls as best as you can and wait to save up for adequate material costs and a better window of opportunity to do the whole job completely! If you're wondering about the "paint and primer in one" question, please see my answer here: What are the pros and cons of using paint with primer in it?
Can you use garage epoxy to paint a shower?
I actually bought this at the Home Depot, and the paint associate, I talked to, did not say that I could not use this product for the showers. He said that he could not imagine that it would not work especially since the paint I bought was meant to withstand the abuse of the Florida sun and rain and the abuse of being being run over by a car on a daily basis. The actual product is Behr Premium 1-part concrete and garage floor paint. http://www.behr.com/dsm-ext/v/index.jsp?vgnextoid=737a536658689110VgnVCM1000006f1010acRCRD#view=17;vgnextoid=737a536658689110VgnVCM1000006f1010acRCRD;channel=PROJECT_CENTER It is described as not suitable for hydrostatic pressure, but in a shower there really isn't any.
Quikrete Semi-Transparent Concrete Stain?
The Quikrete concrete stain you are planning on using fails quicker than you may realize. This is do to; 1. Migrating moisture activates the metallic salts, which had created the color in the first place, so they continue to react and darken the concrete. 2. Efflorescence, lime and alkali's carried by water dull the color. 3. The surface, which had been partially “eaten away” by acid, is brittle – it easily crumbles and wears off. 4. The stain only colors a thin surface layer, which is easily damaged by scratches. 5. Clear sealers, needed to protect the surface, trap moisture and activate efflorescence from the concrete. You are far better off using a one step EPOXY product, with tint flakes for the coloring you desire. It will last far longer, will be far stronger, and will cause little (if any) other issues like those I described above. It's also quick, and relative to what you planned, about the same (if not less) in cost. EDIT; I should have also mention that a very clean, dry, surface is absolutely necessary. A good scrubbing (powerwash if possible) followed by a little muriatic acid wash will be ideal. ESPECIALLY for the Phoenix area. The Epoxy will adhere extremely well if you do this. I GUARANTEE IT.
What kind of stain & sealer do you use on a concrete fountain? I am not getting any info from paint stores.?
You would us e aconcrete sealer and stain. Thompson makes them as do others. Try Home Depot or Lowes. They have them were you can get the stain color tinted to whatever color you want.
What is the easiest way to clean hardened cement on glass?
It depends on how much concrete..is it a film, or from stucco guys? Splashed on? First of all, gloves, goggles, are a must.. If it’s a small amount of film, a little vinegar should take care of it.. If it’s a larger amount you can try a buffered acid solution with inhibitors in it such as lime away, CLR, etc. Muriatic acid may be too strong and could possibly etch the glass..(fog it).. and the fumes from it are no fun to breathe.Can you post a picture?When trying the above be mindful of what else the acid will come in contact with and possibly damage. Painted surfaces may be stripped, etc.MOST IMPORTANT IS EYE, LUNG, AND SKIN PROTECTION..A side note…if you’ve been working in concrete or grout without gloves, and your hands are dry and trashed…Wash them with vinegar..then follow up with a drop of soap & a teaspoon of sugar..they’ll be good as new!
How can i remove these chemical scales/stains from my natural stone floor?
“Most stains can be cleaned by means of stain-removing poultices, which include materials like kaolin, powdered chalk, talc, white molding plaster, etc. A poultice can be made of white cotton balls or white paper towels. You can also buy a premixed substances to which only water is added and are ready to use. One pound of a ready poultice will cover approximately one square foot and it should be left on the stain from 1 hour up to 48 hours, depending on the stains, which can be:Organic stains from tea, coffee, tobacco, food, etc. can be cleaned using 12% hydrogen peroxide (hair bleaching strength) and a few drops of ammonia. If your outdoor natural stone gets such stains it might be enough just to leave the sun and rain wash out the stain.Oil stains may be caused by butter, tar, cooking oil or cosmetics. They will darken the stone and usually need to be chemically dissolved in order to be removed. You can prepare a poultice with acetone, ammonia or mild household detergent and then scrub gently to clean the stain. For marble tiles you can spread the surface with fine powder as whiting or cornstarch and leave it for 24 hours before scrubbing with hot water and a detergent solution.Rust stains are orange or brown and usually have the form of the object that caused them, which can be a metal flowerpot, nails, cans, metal containers, etc. The best way to remove such stains is to use a poultice or a commercial rust remover. Be advised that if you leave the remover for a longer period it may etch the stone.Ink stains are caused by markers or pens. You can use bleach or peroxide to clean light stones and lacquer thinner or acetone for darker stones. Again – do not apply the substance for a long period to avoid ruining the natural stone.Paint stains, if smaller, can be scraped off very gently with a razor blade or by applying lacquer thinner. A commercial liquid paint stripper is needed if the stain is significant.Etch marks – these are caused by acids from milk, alcohol, fruit juices mainly on calcareous stones, so be careful when placing your glass on the marble kitchen top. Any acidic spill should be wiped out immediately and then the surface must be cleaned with a wet cloth. If, however, the liquid has stayed longer on the natural stone, there might be deeper etching and you might need the services of a professional to polish it.”Taken from: Natural Stone[1]Footnotes[1] How To Clean Natural Stone - 5 Steps to Keep Your Natural Stone Clean
I'm a rookie, and I left grout haze when re-grouting tile. How can I remove the grout haze after it's already dry?
It depends. It’s best to consult a pro wherever you are, and the sooner the better. Just pay someone to swing by and give you an opinion. As it stays on longer it cures and is harder to remove.Depending on the tile and the type of grout. Plain vinegar might work to remove the grout haze. Be sure to neutralize it after however. If the tile can take it, professionals will use muriatic acid. It’s not something to be taken likely and is very dangerous.The longer you wait, the more difficult it will be to remove. If it’s a light dusting, it will just rub off with a clean white towel. If you used epoxy grout, you are likely not going to get off the haze.Some tiles need to be sealed before they are set, something to keep in mind if you venture down this path again.Good Luck!