Need help with my 3 year old Siberian Husky chewing on wood in and outside the house.?
There are many reasons that your Siberian Husky is doing that, i.e.: vitamin deficiency;fretting when your gone;loneliness; - I could go on - but I strongly suggest that you go on the web - look for the book - "GOOD DOG",I wish I could remember the vet that wrote this book, he has a show on TV - Sundays - check the listings - you can e-mail him and he will answer - he is a expert on "Dog Training", and he is also a renowned Vet! - go to the EXPERTS - you dog is for LIFE - he will become more then a pet; the Siberian Husky is an amazing bred - remember, she loves to dig!!!Even in the winter - she will dig - it is her nature.. she would like a JOB! Teach her to pull your children,if you don't have children, she can pull "stuff" for you... A harness is cheap - have fun with her - they are a beautiful and smart animal.....
How do I get the ball airborne with a 3 or 5 wood?
I can hit my driver 240 yards off the tee,I can hit my irons pretty well,but only 150-170 yards max.I need to be able to hit the woods for the 200+ shot off the fairway,but usually just roll the worm burners!
Why does my driver slice so much more than my 3 wood?
The technical reason provided by Jeff Markgraf is absolutely correct. Beyond that, there are dependencies on one's particular technique, and almost everything one does (or does not do) will cause a slice (or a draw). A few points that I have commonly observed:1) Ball too close to the center of stance. Should be closer to left heel, perhaps even father out towards the target.2) Weak grip.3) Stance that is too closed, causing insufficient hip rotation on the downswing. One could try to a slightly open stance. For many golfers, this is a quick and easy fix; just open your feet by 10 or 15 degrees to the left of the target. (Shoulders stay parallel to target line.)4) Overswinging. We all like to hit the driver a mile, and so overswinging will cause all sorts of problems including vicious banana slices even when we manage to make good contact.5) Casting. This is a catch-all term for all sorts of closely-related ailments, but, in essence, it means that you are letting go of your hands too soon and the clubhead arrives at the ball too soon - before it has had the time to square up. There are many fixes suggested to it - the most famous one perhaps is Ben Hogan's flattening of the downswing plane at the beginning of the downswing. The most common advice is to start the downswing with your hips but it requires various things to be done correctly - including the hip rotation itself. Otherwise it can make the slice worse or introduce other challenges (without fixing the slice).Happy golfing!
3 wood vs strong 3 wood - what's the diff?
I see the loft is different, but by call a 3 wood strong (13degree) vs just a 3 wood (15degree)? I was looking for a 2 wood - are there any? My driver has been inconsistent of late. I've had days where all I could hit were fairways, and days when all I could hit was something other than a fairway! So today i tried something different and used my 3wood on all but 1 driving hole. I hit the fairway every time except for one time. I hit it about 210 yards. I took out my driver on 16 and sliced it into the trees so I just used 3 wood for last two holes and was so much more successful. Unfortunately I was about 30 yards shorter and missed GIR on those 500+ yard par 5s and was short on some par 4s. But staying out of trouble with the 3 wood felt better than fighting trouble after hitting a poor drive. Is a 2 wood any better? Is it more like a 3 wood?
Howcome I can hit the 3 wood close to 200 yards and can't get my driverto go over175 yards?
Judging by your distances, your swing speed is not fast enough to hit a driver longer than a three wood. This is actually very normal, and it happens to every golfer at some point, whether they are aware of it or not. Since a driver usually has 10 degrees of loft or less, you need a pretty fast swing speed and therefore adequate clubhead speed to create the necessary backspin needed to maintain a ballflight that will out-carry your 3 wood. The reason for this is that the backspin put on a golf ball creates lift, the more lift you create, the more carry you're going to achieve in this case. This is the same reason you probably hit a 6 or 7 iron further than a 3 iron. The reason you are successful in hitting your 3 wood 200 yards is because that extra 3-5 degrees of loft is giving your golf ball and extra 2 or 3000 rpm's, giving the ball a little extra airtime and carry. I wouldn't worry about this too much, even when I was learning the game I carried only a 3 wood in my bag for the first couple of years, until my swing speed got high enough to take advantage of a driver. If you still want to use a driver, I suggest you go to a proshop, Edwin Watts or GolfSmith and get fit into a proper shaft and head. You will definitely see a difference if you are fitted correctly. Hope this helps and happy golfing!
A good club to hit 175 - 200 yards?
I need something to hit 175 - 200 yards between my 5 iron and 3 wood. I'm terrible with my 4 iron. I'm not really doing too well with my 5 iron and 3 wood either. I'm thinking of getting a hybrid or a 5 wood. I'm leaning towards hybrids because I've heard they're good at getting out of rough too. I don't know if I should get a 3, 4 or a 5 hybrid or what degrees of loft would be best. Maybe I need two clubs. Any suggestions including brands?
Reshafting Older Callaway woods?
Older Callaway's are a pain to reshaft, but they can be done. You will likely need a special ferrule; older Ping, Callaway and Taylormade heads required their own ferrules that you had to buy (of course, at a higher cost than a normal ferrule... go figure). No worries, though: places like Golfsmith, GolfWorks and Hireko Golf sell them. Callaway's normally come with a .350" hosel inside diameter, whereas the vast majority of shafts are sold with a .335" diameter. It has no real bearing on performance, but it's a way to make "player's" drivers a little different from what the rest of us riff-raff would use :). Your clubs are what they call "thru-bore" heads, because the shaft goes all the way through the head (I know... "duh", right?). It used to be common-place, but the practice has been all but dropped because of the headaches it would cause the factories. There will be a little bit protruding out of the sole... that's normal. GolfWorks, Golfsmith and Hireko Golf also sell little jigs that make that cut a little easier with a chop saw, but if you're careful it can be done with a Dremel and cut-off wheel attachment. Don't worry about being perfect, either- the little bit that will no doubt be left over can be ground off, again, with a special Dremel sanding attachment. Just remember to put a layer or two (or three) of masking tape down around the hole, to protect the sole from any possible damage. When the sanding tool starts to touch the tape, you know you've gone far enough. The rest is basically the same as any normal reshaft. You just have to remove more paint for the epoxy bond, and make sure the ferrule goes on the extra length, but that's it. Take your time and be as careful as possible and you'll be OK. EDIT: I forgot one thing... the tip pin that needs to go into the shaft. This helps stabilize the area and keeps dirt and junk from getting up inside the shaft. It's another easy step, though... put a layer of epoxy on the pin and insert it as far as it will go. You can give it a couple taps with a rubber mallet if you want. Once the epoxy sets up, take that Dremel tool and carefully cut off the remainder of the pin. As with earlier, take the buffing tool and smooth the pin so it's flush with the sole. Again, masking tape around the area will help protect it from scratches.