How much does it cost to install an attic folding ladder ?
Around 150.00 labor only..if your ceiling joists are as they should be..these ladders come in a couple standard sizes that should be mountable with ceiling joists that are installed correctly..the whole process takes about 2 hours..a contractor would charge at least 150.00 for this though..not including materials.. A handy man can do this job and you may find someone to do it for around 75.00..these people are usually not licensed though..A contractor should be, thus the cost will be a little more than a handyman.. It is an easy job to do if they don't have to alter your ceiling joists
Cost to install an attic access with pull-down stairs?
I would not trust a handyman (even an experienced one) to install anything that may require structural work, such as cutting through a ceiling joist. You should be looking at hiring someone with a general contractor license with proper insurance and bonding in the event that the installation goes wrong and causes unexpected damage. With that said, an attic access typically does not require cutting of ceiling joists. Pull down ladders are designed to be inserted between ceiling joists that are on a standard 2 ft on center. The only framing that should be required (unless the joist spacing isn't standard) is the addition of blocking to stiffen the existing joists and to create an insulation barrier so that insulation does not fall into the ladder bay. Depending on structural issues, the cost of installation (including the ladder) should be $300 to $500.
Is it safe to lay insulation over electrical conduit?
I'm putting new insulation in my attic. Flexible metal electrical conduit is going through all of the roof beams. Can I lay the insulation over the conduit? Or when I come to the conduit, should I run the insulation under the conduit? Or cut the insulation and leave a 3" gap around the conduit? - which would leave an exposed section uninsulated? The roof is being insulated with Kraft faced R30 if it makes a difference in your answer. Do you recommend foil faced insulation for longevity? or it doesn't matter? Thanks for your help.
The pipes going to my split air conditioner seem to be leaking condensation. I was told it is difficult to fix/replace the pipes and I should change the air conditioning. Is there any alternative?
The repair technicians usually want to sell you a new system if it’s out of warranty. If the pipes between the condenser/compressor unit (outside) and evaporator units (inside) are concealed, they will be costly to replace. It’s actually unusual for them to fail.There are usually 3 pipes for each room unit:Refigerant from compressor to evaporatorRefrigerant return back from evaporator to compressorCondensate (water) drainThe refrigerant pipes for inverter type systems are different from non inverter types. If you replace a non-inverter a/c type with the more efficient inverter a/c type you have to change the pipes. Otherwise they never seem to change the pipes.The most common problem people experience is blocked condensate drains. This happens when algae grows in the drain pipes and eventually blocks them. Unblocking the drain is a bit tricky because you usually need to disconnect it from the drain coil and blow or suck it clear. A wet and dry vacuum cleaner does this well. To prevent blockage you can periodically dose the drain with household bleach once a month.to keep your a/c working properly I recommend the following simple steps:Clean the filters at least once a month.Set the thermostat temperature at no more than 24 or 25 C. If you set it colder it doesn't really help - you’ll just risk icing on the evaporator coils whereupon it stops cooling your room as the gaps between the coils get blocked. Set the fan to AUTO.Dose the drains with a cup of bleach once a month.Get a technician to clean the indoor units once every 3 months, and the outside compressor condenser coils at least once a year. They will check refrigerant levels and top up if necessary.Consider using a fan in addition to the a/c. You'll feel cooler at a nay given temperature and use less electricity.Keep the windows and doors closed. Keep the heat out And the cold air in.Servicing is competitively priced. If you skimp on servicing your system will use more power and not work as well.
Electrical: running romex in the attic?
I am going to be running romex from a junction box in my attic to my garage about 20 feet away in order to power some new sconces I've put outside of my garage. I have blown insulation and the romex will be starting it's run about 10 feet from the attic entry. I've been reading and it seems that I should run along the ceiling rafters, drilling holes about 1,25 inches from the bottom (inside) of the rafter. Am I generally reading that right. For some reason I feel strange about drilling so many holes in this structural part of the roof. Thanks, Tim
Installing trap door to basement, legal/structural issues (in New Hampshire)?
NH has adopted the NFPA 101 Life Safety Code, which prohibits anyone from using a "living area" without a primary means of egress and a secondary means of escape. The "secondary means" may include stairs (or doors or windows) but must lead to an unobstructed path to the outside. NFPA 101 (2009): 24.2. Stairs used as fire escape must comply with 7.2.8.4.1, e.g., no less than 18 inches wide for 10 or fewer occupants... There is no particular requirement that all escape stairs be available at all times in both directions. In fact, many approved "fire escapes" have telescoping or cantilevered stairs that are used when descending. In theory, you could simply arrange to have the second stairs open and available when more than two or three people are down there. Of course, like any hole in the floor, it would need to be properly framed, typically with double "headers" all the way around, to bolster the remaining floor. Bottom line, it's certainly worth having a discussion with your local building or fire inspection officials. They may be thrilled that you are even conscious of their concerns, let alone willing to go to the extra effort to obtain the necessary permit and to make your own private basement safer.
How much does it cost to get a sunroof installed after purchase?
Regardless of what you pay, it will be more than it’s worth.Cars equipped from the factory with sunroofs have been engineered to accommodate all of the required changes from the original, sunroof-less design. The roof panel, drive mechanism, seals, wiring, insulation, headliner, controls, and so forth are custom designed for that specific application. In the case of some limited production cars, manufacturers may contract with a specialty car builder to design and install sunroofs (and convertible tops) on closed cars, but those are still very custom-designed and professionally built systems, and the resulting cars are sold by the manufacturer through normal dealer channels just like the original versions.Aftermarket sunroofs do not have a very enviable track record. They’re not designed and built to the specifications of a factory installation. They will have a less-refined look, may have limited functionality, and are more likely to leak or rattle. The car may handle differently due to a loss of structural rigidity (all convertibles and some sunroof cars are reinforced to compensate for the reduced or missing hard roof).I wouldn't buy one, and I wouldn’t recommend that anyone else do so either.
How do I fireproof my attic door/ladder?
Selling my house and the inspection report came back saying I need to cover my attic access with fire resistant material. I can't find anything about it online, only new attic doors. How do I do this without spending $300 for a whole new door?
Why is my attic door located in my closet ceiling?
The closet may not have been there when the house was built. Many folks even into the 50s, still used "wardrobes", pieces of furniture which functioned as a closet. Or, the closet existed, the attic entry was located there, and someone wanted a shelf in the closet, but didn't use the attic much, so added the shelf without thinking about later owners wanting attic access.Take the shelf down, pull the handle, climb on up. Oh, and take a flashlight, wear a surgical mask, and gloves- likely there's asbestos up there.