If Had The Rubber Cap A Little Loose On The Clutch Master Cylinder Would It Cause A Sound When

What causes a car to lose power while driving?

In modern cars with engine management systems, it is the system itself that reduces power if it detects a problem with the engine.  A warning light will come and and the engine will go into 'limp home' mode, where speed it usually limited to 80km/h or lower.  Any number of things can cause this, but usually it relates to loss of something important, like a coolant leak, or low oil pressure.  Sometimes it can also be a false positive due to a fault in the management system itself.All internal combustion engines require three things to work; compression, fuel and ignition.  Degradation of any one of theses will result in lower engine performance.Loss of compression can result from engine wear, common in engines with several hundred thousand kilometers on the clock.  Engine efficiency is lost because gasses can escape past the piston rings.  Mechanical failure such as a blown head gasket can cause a similar loss.Blockages or degradation of the fuel supply, such as a worn fuel pump will cause loss of power for obvious reasons.Ignition faults stem from things such as a cracked distributor head, worn spark plugs, worn ignition coil or faulty spark plug leads.  They generally result in some cylinders not igniting the fuel/air mix, thus reducing the power.Loss of lubricant or coolant will cause the engine to overheat and then seize.  In this case, loss of power is 100%.Worn bearings in the engine will usually not reduce power much, they will keep working, making more and more noise, and then fail catastrophically, causing the engine to seize.It is also possible for timing chains to slip, adjustment screws to loosen in the carburetor, exhaust manifolds to develop leaks , and other minor mechanical faults to occur that will reduce engine power.  This can happen suddenly or gradually over time.

What would happen if my motorbike lost all of its engine oil whilst going 70mph on the motorway via a heavy leak?

The other answers speak to the potential of the engine seizing and the need to get the clutch in as quickly as humanly possible and to coast and/or brake to a stop before the engine seizes and spits you and itself down the road.But there is another thing to keep in mind. Oil. If, as in the questions’ scenario, the motorcycle loses all of its engine oil while riding then there is a more than small chance that the rear tire might slip and slide. Couple that with the rear tire locking and life could get very interesting. Or short.Many years ago I had a Norton 750 Commando. I’d been up riding in our local mountainous curves with a friend on the back when I came around a corner with a small five or so foot long hump. It was a perfect jump. Which, of course, I accelerated and did.The rear drum brake on Nortons were attached to the swing arm to keep it from spinning.When the motorcycle touched down on the rear wheel, the bracket that held the rear brake broke, the drum brake spun and locked the rear brake just like a seized engine would. If I had though to pull the clutch in it wouldn’t have made any difference.But, frankly it happened so fast I never thought about pulling the clutch in until we were stopped.With the rear wheel completely locked we skidded maybe 50–60 feet. It was pure reflex and probably some luck, not skill, that kept the motorcycle upright.

What happens if your car runs out of engine coolant?

If you run out of coolant, and continue to operate the engine for a significant period of time, it will cause serious harm to the engine.Among the first things damaged is typically the heads and head gaskets.  If you really push it, you could damage the block, seize the engine, or melt a hole in a piston.Before you get to the catastrophic damage point, there are some tell tale signs that you've run out of coolant.  1) the heater stops working2) the temperature gauge drops from hot to cold (because it's no longer immersed in hot coolant)3) as the engine heat soaks without the cooling system doing its job, the heat gauge eventually rises into the hot zone and keeps going.  4)At this point the engine is/has exceeded its designed operating temperature, and the check engine light may come on.  At this point you may have already damaged the heads/gaskets.At any point past warning #2, turn off the engine and let it cool.  Adding cool water while the engine is hot could cause warping/cracking.  Not to mention you may get burned when opening the cap.

Is it normal to hear a faint gurgling noise when pressing or releasing the brake?

Your brake fluid could be low and/or the cap to the brake fluid reservoir could be loose.Another thing to look out for is whether the rubber piece on the inside of the brake fluid reservoir cap is reset back to its normal position. It’s got a soft rubber/silicone piece that expands with suction as the brake fluid gets lower to limit the amount of air that comes in contact with the brake fluid (because brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs moisture which then boils from braking heat and creates bubbles).

How do I fix my car having a rough idle after replacing the alternator?

You're right to assume that something else going on. Because it is!Personally I'd check to see if the alternator is providing the right amount of voltage. it's not impossible to get the wrong part installed. and when I say that, I don't necessarily mean you chose the wrong part, but during the assembly line a part they grabbed while assembling the alternator could have been or of spec or something. Check the grounds. A lot of the time, over years of use a little sand blasting or sand papering of the hookups does help. while running the engine, disconnect the battery. A poorly performing battery can drag the entire system down. check to make sure your AC ain't causin' problems too. make sure the clutch is spinning or not spinning when not being used. double check the water pump to see if it was messed up. lastly check all your ignition wiring too. depending on the model year and brand, it might be chatty with obd2. if it's carbureted, obviously you won't get any feedback. if it is obd2, there might be information in there that can give you an idea of what's going on. so get a reader and check. also with modern fi engines, they'll run rough after a battery removal for a while. make sure your fuel economy hasn't been affected, if it has, it's a clear indication that something is wrong.