327 motor crank in a 305 motor?
"The 290-Cid Torquer - 3.766-Inch Bore 305 Block 307/327l 3.25-Inch Crank 1.690 CH While it's still just another de-stroked 305, we call this one the Torquer because its longer stroke will make a little more torque than the 267/276-cid Screamer. Parts for this one may be a little easier to come by because, even though only two years of 327 cranks will work, there are still plenty of them around. Only the '68-69 327s had 2.45-inch mains that'll drop right into the 305 journals. To make this swap easier, you could also use someone's unwanted 307 crank since they're basically the same as the late 327 cranks."
Two bolt main crank in a four bolt block?
Mars for rebuilding engines for so long, you sure can;t give a straight answer.. To asker. There is NO diff in a crank from a 2 bolt or 4 bolt main engine. Nothing at all its a direct replacement Does not matter on a sbc if it was manual or auto trans. All of the cranks have a machined spot for a torque converter and a polit bearing.. If manual trans crank on an auto trans you do have to remove the polite bearing 1st through. The only thing you need to watch for is the years. 1962-67 327 was a small journal engine with 2.30" mains and 2.00" rod journals 1968-69 327 and all other 1968 and up sbc was med. journal engines with 2.45" mains and 2.10" rod journals. You can not use a small journal crank in a larger journal engine (unless you use bearing spacers) and you can not use a larger journal crank in a small journal engine.. Nor will the rods interchange between small and med journal cranks. Yes you can build a 327 from a 350.. The 350 and 327 share same 4.000" bore, but the stroke is doff and that also means pistons are diff (compression height of pistons from center of pin to top of crown) In fact my dad's twin turbo charged 327 is build from a 350 block. 1968 327 crank, 1974 350 block, sealed power/speed pro 327 pistons, 350 pink rods
Chevy small block 327 with 283 crank will it work?
You're already in WAY over year head if you are having to ask these questions. Pistons need a pin location(compression height) of 1.8, and you will need 5.7 rods. Zero deck your block, but leave .010 in the hole and use a Fel Pro 1094 head gasket. Then it will scream with minimum octane and minimum timing, regardless of the fact that it will raise compression at the same time. You will need a dedicated break in oil. Try Joe Gibbs BR. Are you going to set your rod/main bearing oil clearances and check lifter bore clearances..? That's all pretty important rather than just throwing a high volume oil pump in there with some 20W50 oil. ;) You best use a small cam with a TIGHT lobe separation angle (104-106) or else that engine having its LONG rod to stroke ratio is NOT going to accelerate worth beans. The shorter the cam, the wider LSA it will tolerate without being lazy. Otherwise, it will scream for compression. I'd run a single pattern cam. I would not even consider an RV cam on anything wider than about 107. That would be like a 350 with an RV cam on a 112. Put some good poly locks on there and put a small solid lifter cam in there and you'll have something. camshaftshaun@gmail.com
400 crank in a 327 block?
Great question! My memory tells me we had to grind some clearance at the base of the cylinders for the 400 crank. But it worked. If you have the parts already, drop the crank in the block , but it needs the rods attached to check the whole rotation. We did it with hand grinders, nothing fancy. Regarding bore: The 400 inch small block as you probably know had what we call siamese cylinders that were up against each other and did not cool as good as a 327 or 350 with some clearance. So you take a 327 and go .060 over you are getting a little thin on the walls. Personally, I would keep the bore opened only as much as needed to fit the new pistons. If you say .060 is needed to clean up the walls then do it, but it will never be able to be bored again. Although, awesome little mouse motor ! No one will believe it when you pull away from them. Good Luck!
Which is better, a long block or short block engine?
That depends on allot of things actually.1: your budget. Can you afford to buy a long block outright or can you only afford to buy a little at a time and build your engine up slowly.2: your purpose for the engine. Is it going in a 500 hp street car or a 1000 horse power drag car? If you want good power and good reliability you could just get a good long block and call it done, or you could build a short block for the same purpose with similar results. If you're going for super high horse power, you should probably go with the short block you can build it up to meet your exact needs. Yes you can get high hp long blocks, but they won't work nearly as well as a custom built block would.3: experience. Anyone can install an engine, but not everyone can build a reliable one. I'm guessing that you haven't built an engine before, given that you're asking this question, which is perfectly fine. You just need to ask yourself if you're willing to risk the time, sweat and money that goes into building a short block if you do something wrong and you lose the engine. This is unless you've got an experienced engine builder, then go for the short block. If it is your first time building an engine, I would recommend starting with a junkyard engine so you can learn without allot less risk that would come with buying thousands of dollars in parts, unless you've got a lot of disposable income.4: your dedication. With a long block, you stick it in the car and you have to do a little bit of tuning. With a short block you have to do a ton of work making sure everything fits and works with your other parts, and just takes a ton more time and dedication than a long block generally would.Well, this was my two cents, I hope I was helpful and good luck with your project!
Will a 350 crank work in a 305, and still use the stock rods and pistons out of a 305?
They're the same stroke and they share the same rod & main journal sizes, but a 350 crank has much heavier counterweights, so you'd have to have your crank and rod/piston assemblies balanced. This is a complete waste of time since 305 crankshafts are a dime a dozen.
400 small block or 454 chevy?
with pump gas being what it is today I am sure you would be happier with a 454 back in the day you could build a kickass small block. we would put 12-1/2:1 slugs in it cap it with 57 cc heads and kick the total timing to 36 degrees and melt a set of tires every week but the only thing you will melt with todays pump gas is a hole in the top of your pistons and that is such an ugly site
How do I find the bore limit of an engine block?
You’re going to find the one truth to this answer:It depends.It depends on what engine block you have, how thick the cylinder walls are, if there is porosity in the cylinder walls (e.g. engine was not protected from the elements and a cylinder or two filled with water, pitting the bore surface), whether or not core shift has occurred during the foundry process (requires sonic testing), and what the largest oversize piston available is.For a garden variety small block Chevrolet engine, .030-.040 is the safe maximum. Some 4″ blocks (302, 327, 350) can be cut up to .060 over, but you might run into wall weakness and overheating issues on a street application - “the rabbit hole gets deep” - there are some exotic oversizes available for a 350 (.080 etc) but these generally require concreting the block to retain strength. Again, not something for the street.Other engines are similar - depends on what is available for your particular application and what condition your block is in.
How much horsepower would a 305 small block stock have?
The LG4 engine, the Quadrajet carbed standard 305 from 1980 through 1988 generally had about 145 HP and 240 torque (numbers here may vary a little). This was GM’s most common V8 engine in use during the 1980s. It received a small bump in both HP and torque in 1987 with the advent of the hydraulic roller cam.
Can a 327 small block engine make a bigger car fast?
Of course. My first car was a 64 Impala. It had the venerable 327 small block in it from the factory. It was a fast and big car. Of course it would be no competition to a light car with a big engine. The lighter car with the big engine would win every time. Small blocks have big HP potential, though after much money is spent on them. They rev much higher. and make their power in the upper RPM bands, Torque is sacrificed at the expense of HP.