I installed an aftermarket stereo into my truck and I used a wiring harness. The stereo turns on but there isn't any sound coming out. What could be the problem?
How are you certain that all the wires are connected properly? There are really only three variables here: The source, the wires/connections and the speakers. If you can confidently rule out the connections - properly routed, soldered, grounded - and the wires themselves - no shorts, not grounding out - then either your source is not putting out a signal or your speakers are not reproducing sound from the signal. On your source, make sure it it not muted, and that there is a signal from something (tuner, CD, MP3, other input). I would try connecting a pair of speakers directly to the outputs from the source - no wiring harness, no routing through the bodywork of the car. If that checks out, hook up some 12volt audio source directly to each speaker where it is installed (door, kick panel, trunk, dash). Unless your source is faulty, I'm betting there is a wiring problem. Speakers don't often fail completely.
How do I connect the "Ground" black wires for an aftermarket car stereo?
I'm installing a new aftermarket radio into my car. I bought the harness so I wouldn't have to cut any wires. I connected all the matching color wires so far and left the ones I don't need. I now have 1 black wire from the harness and 1 black wire from the stereo wires. On both of the instructions for the harness and the stereo, it says to connect to a "chassis ground". Do I just connect these two black wires together and that's it or connect them then have to ground them somewhere behind me dash?
Wiring aftermarket radio?
I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse gs. I'm trying to put in an aftermarket radio, but my wires don't match any of the diagrams I have found online. The wires are black/white, orange/black, green/white, yellow/black, tan, pink, red, black, and white.. Any ideas on which is which? Thanks.
Aftermarket installation wire spark?
Its probably the constant power wire that keeps memory & the time on your radio when the ignition or the car is off. Look for a blown fuse that is labeled doom light or cig lighter. If its the switch power fuse it will be labeled radio. Try those, when you cut the harness the wires that had power running through them grounded out on the others.That's why you should always cut them one at a time, if you don't know which wires are power, speaker, or ground wires.
What is the best option for diagnosing and repairing a car stereo that turns on and off randomly when I drive? Would an auto repair mechanic or a car stereo store be more qualified to fix this problem?
It will be one of two things - either a loose wiring connection, most likely at the fuse, or an intermittent broken connection inside the stereo. When it goes off, does it lose all the station presets? If so, the fault is in the always-on connection and not the fused circuit. I don’t mean to be discouraging, but I had this problem with my stereo - it would just shut off without warning. Reaching under the dash and pulling on the wire harness would bring it back for a while but having to retune all the presets, only to lose them again next time it cut out, made me want to attack it with an axe. I’m not a novice at fixing electronics but I’m damned if I could find out what was wrong with it, and after I’d wasted a few hours on it, I pitched it in the recycle bin and installed another.An auto repair mechanic won’t have the first idea where to start looking, but while he’s making his diagnosis he’ll notice that your front shocks need to be replaced ($380) and you need new windshield wipers ($48). The car radio store will quickly diagnose that your stereo is fornicated beyond repair and offer to install a new one for $199. You should probably take that option.
Wiring an aftermarket radio in a 2003 Mitsubishi Galant?
I have a 2003 Galant ES, and I'm trying to install an aftermarket radio head unit (VR-3, model: VRCD400-SDU). The wiring harness that was already in the car did not fit the port on the new radio, but I have the wiring harness that came with that one, so I figured this would be a simple job of splicing the wires to the new harness after the old harness was removed. The problem I'm having now is that, despite having everything wired up, no power is getting to the new radio. My initial guess is that maybe I've just wired something wrong. Here's the wiring setup (sans speaker wires) I have right now: CAR WIRES ---- HARNESS WIRES 1. Car Radio Constant 12v+ (Red/Black) ---- Car Battery 12v+ (Yellow) - My car does not have a Red/Black wire, but does have a Red/White wire that I haven't found listed on any wiring diagrams, but since it's the only "extra" wire left over after the others are connected, I'm assuming this is the constant power wire. Perhaps this is where my mistake is? 2. Car Radio Switched 12v+ (Blue) ---- Ignition 12v+ (Red) 3. Car Radio Illumination (Green/White) ---- Panel Light (White) This radio was removed from my roommate's car that he sold. I wanted the radio because it had an Aux port that I could use for my iPhone. The radio worked fine in his car, so I know it's not an issue with the head unit. So, assuming the wiring setup I have listed here is correct, what else could be causing my power issue? The fuses for the radio I checked aren't burnt out or anything (assuming I looked at the correct fuses - the fuse diagram in the Owner's Manual looks nothing like the actual fuse panels under the hood and on the driver's side panel). I'd be extremely grateful for any help you'd be able to offer me! Thanks in advance!
How to install aftermarket stereo into John Deere 4840?
We have a JD 4840 with an old Panisonic AM radio and we want to put in a Pioneer DEH-P6500 cd player. The problem I'm running into is I the wiring harness on the tractor has power, ground, left and right speakers pos and neg. and the harness from the pioneer has a 12v constant hot, 12v ignition/switch, and illumination wires. I want to know if I can just wire 12v ignition and illumination together and then to the hot from the tractor?
How do you wire the speakers to a new stereo in a Ford KA?
If you have installed the aftermarket head unit (stereo) correctly, and installed your ISO adapter correctly, both left and right speakers should work as they did with the Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) stereo.If both speakers work with the OEM head unit, and this is not the case with the aftermarket head unit, then be sure to check the wires in the ISO adapter are seated correctly in their blocks.The only remaining areas to check for faults are the manufacturer's wiring; if there is some present between the head unit and the ISO adapter, and the connections on the back of the head unit itself.
What would cause a popping/crackling sound in one of my stereo speakers?
Most popping or crackling sounds in an audio system come from a bad or dirty connections. Sometimes they do come from a faulty unit or component, but in most cases it is a connection issue. Whether that connection is in the connectors, wiring, circuit board or components, or even just a bad solder joint, wherever that connection is, finding it becomes the main issue to tackle. There are some relatively simple methods that can be used to locate it.First identify which part of your audio system has the issue. The fact that it is only in one of your speakers is a huge help in identifying what might be causing the noise. If both channels had the same noise, this method would not work. You can easily identify the source by swapping the channels and seeing if the noise moves or stays on the same channel.For example, swap the channels the speakers are connected to. Does it persist on the same speaker or does transfer to the other? After swapping, if it remains with the same speaker ( other channel), then it is the speaker connections (or the speaker itself) that are problematic. If it is now on the same channel (other speaker), it is somewhere in the system, before the speaker connections. You can continue to swap different components back and forth, swapping channels and work back to where the source and component is identified.Sometimes just connecting and reconnecting the cables and components solves the problem, as the connection is improved. Good luck!One component that usually becomes noisy that way (more of a crackling sound than a popping one)is a potentiometer (also called a ‘pot’, normally volume controls, bass-treble-balance controls, etc.). These can be easily identified by rotating or sliding the controls as the case may be, and listening for the noise. These can be cleaned with the right solvents or sprays.Worst case scenario is a failed or failing component such as a transistor, capacitor, resistor, solder joint (actually solder joints are relatively easily repaired, just identifying the problematic one is the challenge!), etc.Once you have identified the part or unit in the system that is causing the noise, then it will be easier to decide how best to correct the issue (replace or repair).