What does it show when a power inverter fault red light lights and make sound?
Others have given you the obvious answers, most importantly “Check the manual” If you don’t have one, search the web.Common reasons include:-Battery/supply voltage too lowBattery/supply voltage too highOutput current/power too highBattery/input current too high (as a result of excessive output loading)Inverter over temperatureOutput voltage, frequency etc might also be monitored.Whatever it means, it is indicating ‘something’ is not normal, and it requires investigation. Possibly the inverter has permanently failed; possible it is a temporary condition which can be corrected.Try disconnecting the load, try freshly charged batteries, try letting it rest & cool down etc. & see if the fault indication clears…
Two light bulbs are connected in series with an AC source. After switching on those for 2 days continuously, both of them were found dead. What could be the possible cause?
I am assuming you mean two incandescent light bulbs, both rated for 120 VAC, and assuming you mean you turned the switch on and left them emitting light, but when you came back they were (when plugged in to some receptacle individually to test them) both dead. By connecting two 120 VAC incandescent light bulbs in series you made them effectively operate at 60 VAC and draw much less current. That is the kind of thing that I do if I need a safety light above the bottom step of a very tall flight of stairs, a position that would require me to use a very tall ladder to change the bulbs. Because the bulbs run at half their rated voltage their filaments will vaporize at a much slower rate. I therefore will expect to get a dim light that may stay on for a year or so (just a guess). If the two bulbs burned out in a short time but I had noticed them burning dimly after I installed them, and if I could find no fault in the wiring even after testing the voltage across the two wires coming out of the ceiling socket, then I would suspect that the building had been struck by lightning. Another thought: I once lived in a house where the fluorescent lights in one room flashed like a strobe gun every time the refrigerator compressor motor turned on. It turned out that the hot wire to the lights was at -120 VAC and the hot wire to the refrigerator was at +120 volts, and the ground connection that should have isolated the lights and the fridge from each other had corroded thus creating a PD of 240 VAC. Ordinarily the -120 line and the +120 line are only used on the same appliance when it is something such as a stove oven that is intended to operate at 240 volts. (That's why they have those funny plugs — they don't want you to plug your toaster into a 240 volt socket.) If you have a bad ground and a heavy motor being run from time to time, then you might be setting up a similar situation. Have the power company come out and inspect your ground connections, particularly the one at the point where AC current enters your house. When an electric motor is just starting, its effective resistance and impedance is about zero, i.e., it functions as just another piece of copper wire:The blue boxes represent the transformer out on the telephone pole. PD means "difference in potential," i.e. the voltage you would measure from point to point, e.g. between one side of the two bulbs and the other wise of the two bulbs.
Why did the series circuit stop working when one of the light bulbs was removed?
Apparently circuits class instructors and text books are not familiar with real-world series lighting circuits. Yes, antique series Christmas lights did all go out when one bulb failed. But they only had 8 bulbs in a string - 15V each.There are numerous ways to prevent this problem.Mini Christmas light bulbs have a built-in shunt that shorts out the bulb if the filament breaks. Of course, each time a filament breaks, the remaining ones get higher voltage. And if a bulb is loose in the socket they all go out.Series streetlights (no longer common) had a shunt device that would short out the socket if a bulb failed. The circuit had as many as forty 50V bulbs in series, They were powered by a 2000V current regulated 6.6A supply, so the current did not increase as bulbs burnt out. Airfield runway lights are wired in series, because the wiring might be 2 miles long. They use a current-regulated supply up to 8000 V, They also have a device to shunt any dead bulbs. It could be a small transformer at each bulb which saturates, acting like a short circuit.Just think of the voltage drop in the wiring if you wired a few hundred bulbs in parallel, on a 2 mile circuit. It would require huge diameter wires.
Why do decorative series lights go off when one the bulbs is burnt?
Well, you basically answered your own question - series string lights are wired in… well, a series, but you already knew that. Let me explain a bit more on how series wiring works, yeah?In a series circuit, the devices along the circuit loop are connected in a continuous row, so that if one fails or is disconnected, the entire circuit is interrupted. This will cause all devices along the circuit to stop working. Series circuits are somewhat rare in-house wiring, but they are sometimes used in strings of Christmas lights or landscape luminaries, where one light bulb failing will cause the entire string to go dark.One household example where series wiring is useful in is when a single GFCI(ground-fault circuit interrupter) receptacle is used to protect other standard receptacles located "downstream" of the GFCI. This is HIGHLY recommended with the use of string lights.As you may know, a GFCI receptacle has screw terminals labeled "line," as well as screw terminals labeled "load." The load terminals can be used to extend to additional regular receptacles beyond the GFCI. This allows them to also be protected by the ground-fault-circuit protection offered by the GFCI receptacle that feeds them. The advantage here is that GFCI receptacles are quite expensive compared to standard receptacles and using one to protect other standard outlets offers notable cost savings.
Is it true that when an ambulance has lights on, but no siren, that someone on the ambulance is dead, or has died?
We rarely run with lights or sirens when transporting a patient to the hospital. Unless the patient is at death’s door, there is no need. Even a patient in bad shape might not get L&S, we need to be able to work on a patient in the back. If the truck is speeding, taking corners on two wheels and, because of speed, having to occasionally brake hard, we get tossed all over the place.There’s a good chance that if the emergency lights are on, and the siren off, it means that there isn’t a lot of traffic, and I’m trying to listen to lung sounds, or talk to a patient that is hard to hear in a quiet room, or talk to the medical control doctor on the phone and the sirens are drowning everything out.Dead people aren’t transported by ambulance. The only exception being when they die en-route, and resuscitation isn’t going to be attempted, usually because of a do not resuscitate order. (DNR)So, if you see an ambulance with emergency lights but no siren, chances are they need a little quiet to work.
Clarisonic Mia 2 light flashing?
The Mia does not come charged. You have to charge it for 24 hours before using it. So plug it in and leave it alone for 24 hours! I have the regular Mia, but I think they charge the same way. While attached to the charger and actively charging, the lights flash. When the lights go solid, then it is fully charged. When it's not attached to the charger and is about to run out of charge, the lights will start to flash to tell you you'll need to charge it soon. On the regular Mia, a full charge lasts for 20 minutes of use. I'd expect the Mia 2 is similar. Here's a link to the User Guide: http://cdn.clarisonic.com/cdn/includes/p...
Exploding incandescent light bulb?
Wow, Elve, do you have anyone mad enough at you to sabotage your light bulbs.?? I think Jaxx has been smoking something you have to have a prescription for. Anyway, you should have gotten the idea by now that if a hot light bulb is sprayed or dripped on by water or a cold liquid, it can and in most cases does, explode. So, we have that covered, but I'm actually more interested in the answer that told you to push a half a potato up onto the remaining part of the bulb to get it unscrewed and out of the fixture. The thing he didn't mention was that you need to turn off the electric at the breaker panel for that circuit before you do that. A raw potato will conduct electricity and could kill you if by chance you left the switch on. Just be careful with it either way.
If one light bulb is unscrewed what happens to the current in the other lightbulb?
I'm not going to get too technical here, nor use Ohm's law maths. I'm also not going to cover combined series/parallel circuits, though the concept is still the same here too. The answer is it depends on the type of circuit. If it's a series circuit (like with many Christmas tree lights) the current would stop. You still have voltage in the circuit (strength of the electric field) and potential, but no current flow thus no amperage (rate of electron flow in a conductor). If it's a parallel circuit you would still have current flow, but with less amperage. Voltage can still be affected in parallel circuits too, because the size of a conductor, load and rating of a power source will lead to voltage drops in many parallel circuits. It's possible in some instances to see the other light/s get brighter by disconnecting a bulb. You can see this effect in parallel circuits when you attempt to use a very powerful electrical power tool (a large reciprocating hammer for example), and not have it run effectively if the extension cord is too thin (too small of an AWG or metric conductor rating). You can also see this effect if you attempt to use a microwave step-up transformer (output of 2000 volts on the secondary) to attempt to power a 60 watt rated light bulb used in 120 volt circuits. Guess what: the light bulb will not do anything because the transformer has too low of a kVA rating.
Trying to heat and light an uninsulated garage March party?
With 25 teenagers in a 500 sf garage, they're going to be pretty warm just from body heat once the party gets going, and I wouldn't use a propane heater in that small a space with that many kids milling around in it, except to heat it up before they get there. Too easy for someone to fall into the hot heater. It would be difficult to run enough extension cord to power an electric heater of any kind, and I can tell you from experience that an electric heater won't make much of a dent in an uninsulated building in 20 degree weather. I'd use a propane heater for a few hours before anyone arrives, and remove it after about 10 people arrive. If you can legally and safely do it, I like the idea of a burn barrel outside the garage. Anyone who feels cold can stand near that for a while. If you use LED lights, you can run an awful lot of them on a regular extension cord. I have strings of LED Christmas lights that use only 4 watts, so you could run 25 strings of them and still only use as much power as one normal 100 watt light bulb. If you want a nightclub look, get ones with tiny bulbs and I'd think 6 strings minimum but much depends on how you arrange them and what colour they are. If you can get them up in the rafters that could look very cool, like a starry night sky.