Is my copy of 1984 a true 1st American Edition?
Everything abou my 1984 book matches up with the first American edition from Harcourt (the dust jacket, binding) except that on the copyright page it doesn't say the publishing city. Normally, the first editions say "Scranton, PA" on them. Mine just says "printed in the USA" and it doesn't say "first edition" either. Also, it has no book of the month club or library markings. The inside of the DJ says $3.00 which is what it should say for the first edition. Can anyone help me figure out why everything matches up except the copyright page?
Where to sell 1st edition books?
The only Harry Potter that is worth anything is the first print run of the first edition of the first book. Here is some really useful information: http://www.peterharrington.co.uk/blog/20... Once the Harry Potter phenomenon took off, the books were printed in their millions and there are so many first editions floating around that they are not worth much.
Why is one book available in different covers?
There could be so many different reasons for this.1. Which edition? A successful book will typically go through at least three major release cycles: First a hardcover, followed by a trade paperback, and finally a mass market paperback. (Trade paperbacks are typically slightly larger and use better quality paper than a mass market paperback). Then there’s also the eBook and audiobook versions. Major publishers will often revamp (or at the very least, tweak) the cover design for every release.2. What market? The crossover market is a relatively new phenomenon in publishing. Publishers will have very different covers for the same title depending on where the books are going to be targeted. Here’s an example of the very first Harry Potter title; one aimed at the children’s market, the other at adults.3. Making the bestseller list. A book making the New York Times or USA TODAY bestseller list (especially the former) is almost guaranteed to cause a switch-up in covers. Sometimes it may just be a minor layout adjustment to call out the fact that this is now a NYT bestseller; at other times, the cover design itself may change.4. What country? When a title is released for the North American market (US and Canada), you will see the same cover in both countries. However, when the book is published in other markets, the covers may be changed as well. Here’s one title from an author whose campaigns I have worked on (though not for this specific book); this version was released in the US and Canada:And here are a few covers of the same title published in other countries. It’s not unheard of to have a dozen or more different covers for the same title. And as you can see, sometimes the title itself may change.Covers for (top row) Australia, Finland, France and Germany, and (bottom row) Italy, Japan, Spain and Sweden. 5. Make it a set. Books released as part of a boxed set may have different covers than what were seen previously. Here are two boxed sets for Harry Potter, one for the children’s market and a ‘Signature’ edition for the adult market.The children's edition boxed setThe 'Signature' edition targeted at adults6. You've seen the movie, now buy the book! Should a book be fortunate enough to be picked up by a studio and made into a movie, expect to see another version, this one tying it to the film. Here’s an example of John Green’s bestselling The Fault In Our Stars, with the original version at left and the latest release at right.
Which is the best book for Indian history?
There is no single book that could cover the entire “Indian history” in the best way possible. However, you can divide the entire history into different time periods. And for each period, here are some of the best books, in my opinion.For Ancient India (till 1200 CE)India’s Ancient Past by R.S. SharmaFor specifically Ancient Indian culture during the pre and post Vedic period,The Wonder that was India by A.L. BashamFor Early Medieval India, (From Sultanate until the advent of the Mughals)History of Medieval India (Part 1) by Satish ChandraAnd for the Mughal Era,Emperors of the Peacock Throne, by Abraham EralyIt covers only the greatest reign of the important Mughal emperors, from Babur to AuranzebAnd for the later Mughal emperors, you can read the Part 2 of Satish Chandra’s Medieval India.For Modern Indian History (from the 1857 Rebellion till the colonial Independence in 1947)India’s Struggle for IndependenceAnd for the events after the independence until the early 21st century,India After Gandhi, by Ramchandra GuhaI have not considered about the empires and events in the Deccan and the South during the late Medieval and early Modern periods of Indian History as I have not yet read about that era much. You might want to read about it, though, especially the Maratha empire.Images source - Google Images
What makes a book collectible?
Thanks for the A2A.For my part, I only have a few books (3000 or so). I buy them for interest, beauty, age, and/or (rarely) rarity. For serious collectors, it seems to be that beauty, rarity, and age are the criteria. Interest is not quite so important.When it comes to beautiful books, I can be perfectly happy with facsimiles. I'll never have enough money to afford a 1st edition Kelmscott. Or any edition, for that matter.Kao is recent, so I don't get that case, especially compared to the paradigmatic collector's book -- the First Folio.Eye of the beholder and all that .... you might compare the case of the historic preservation of buildings. There was a case recently regarding an ugly building in Washington, DC. Some thought it should be given the "landmark" designation simply because it was old and an early example of Brutalist architecture. Others thought that such an eyesore should be razed, no matter how "architecturally significant" it was. The latter group won out. (Most normal people have brutal opinions of Brutalism -- quite rightly, too.)Books, at least, don't impinge on the public space, so individual taste has a larger role to play.
Is there a way to tell a print from an original watercolor?
It is a bit more tricky sometimes than the others who have answered here may think. Sometimes when really good prints are made the publisher will use very good paper that has the same texture and qualities as watercolor paper. With new commercial inkjet printer technology the finished piece has a very authentic look. It does not have the screen dot pattern as did the offset lithography method which is still used extensively today to make reproductions in large quantities. It is true that if you find a piece that is shiny and the paper is very flat and without texture it likely could lead one to decide that it is a print rather than a watercolor. Another thing to look for is - if the entire image seems cropped into a perfect rectangle with all the edges being perfectly straight. A watercolor artist usually paints a piece with irregular edges then crops it with matting. In other words when a mat is removed you see an irregular edge all around with paint and pencil lines or even scribbles. Maybe the artist wanted to see how a color they mixed was going to look on the paper before they put the brush to the actual painting. On an offset lithography print you will see the color broken into little dots. Black, cyan, magenta and yellow dots overlap at different angles to form all the colors you see. With a magnifying glass you may be able to see it. but on fine prints the dots are small. An example that you can see more easily that illustrates this method is looking at photographs in a local newspaper. A much coarser screen is used there because of the newsprint paper's low quality. You will not even need a magnifying glass to see them. Take the piece to an experienced independent professional picture framer, Good art teacher, art gallery or good artist in your area for what should be a free assessment ( not appraisal which assigns value). You just want to know if it is a watercolor or a print. I offer this free service to my local market. Lastly, if there is any printing that looks mechanical like off a typewriter or type font expressing a publisher, date, title, or anything in the border -the piece is a print. There would never be any mechanical printing on an original
What are the best calculus books?
The problem with books like Thomas’ Calculus or Stewart Calculus is that you won’t get a thorough understanding of the inner mechanics of calculus. As long as you don’t have a good prof or teacher, I would stay away from these books. If you want to understand what I mean, take a look at some arbitrary sections in these books. You’ll see a short paragraph, which serves as an intro, then some boxes with formulas, then a few workout examples and then a bunch of exercises. This means, you will only learn HOW to you the formulas instead of understanding the WHY!My advice is, visit YouTube, search for Michael Van Biezen, learn the techniques of Calculus 1–3 (ca. 17 hours), and then, to understand the inner mechanics of Calculus, read Tom Apostol. Biezen will serve as a shortcut for learning the techniques and Apostol will teach you the WHY.Alternatively you can search for Prof.Leonard on YouTube and watch his Calculus 1–3 lectures (ca 168 hours). He works through the books like Stewart Calculus but tries to teach you the sections in detail. Nevertheless, I would prefer the first way Biezen -> Apostol.To answer your question,Gilbert Strang - Calculus (very good, but in my opinion to conversational. You can find it for free on the website of MIT)Tom Apostol - Calculus (very very good, but you need to put in serious effort)Michael Spivak (didn’t read it, but many people say, it’s quite harder than Apostol, but still one of the best books to learn Calculus, although only Single Variable Calculus)Serge Lang - First Course in Calculus (makes fun to read it, built more on intuition)Thomas’ Calculus (short on explanations and too dry)Stewart Calculus (same as Thomas’ with the exception, that he has more real world examples)If you don’t want to buy a hardcopy you can get a comprehensive Calculus book from OpenStax where Gilbert Strang is one of the Authors. (see link below).I hope I could help you. I struggled a lot with the same question.OpenStax
Is it true that all you need to do to do well in the USMLE Step 1 is master the "first aid" review book?
Absolutely not. Well at least not for the majority of students. I have known a very small handful who were able to score 250+ using only FA a portion of a question bank but they are the exception and not the rule.Who ever is telling you only master FA please stop listening to them. I do USMLE prep as my primary job, this is someone i know well and have thousands of student data points to use as experience. Please consider the followingI would suggest you look into the following resources and not add to these unless clinically indicatedFA 2017UWorldPathomaBRS physiologyMemorangAll available NBME exams***Rapid review pathology was mentioned by another poster. I PERSONALLY love this book. Ive met Goljan years ago and i also used his audio when i was preparing. HOWEVER, if you have not been using this along with courses please do not try to add it in now. It is too dense to most students to add in new. The above mentioned resources should be enough. The one exception is if you have been using RR path along with your course and know it well then I would consider using it. Again i personally love this book, I used to teach a university pathophys course and i had my students get this book and it helped them tremendously and I still reference it but please dont add it in new.**Once you have a plan stick to it and do not deviate unless there is a specific reason to. Dont worry about what other people are doing. Be very cautious of advice you read from anonymous people on online forums. Take ownership of your future and do your research as to what is going to work best for you.If you rock USMLE Step 1 you will open many doors in your future. Do your best and then you will have no regrets.The USMLE is not an intelligence exam, it is a hard work exam. A student with average intelligence but with a strong work ethic and willing to commit will almost always do well. I never had a student who didnt score quite well when they were willing to work for it. Give it your all and destroy this exam.Oh and make sure you update the FA Errata. Yea there are always a lot of mistakes, check the website every week and make the corrections as needed.