Is 143,000 too high of a mileage for a used car?
This depends on the price. As someone who uses (that should read destroys) vehicles for my job, I have a simple policy for this. First, I evaluate any glaring problems with the vehicle that indicate there will be major maintenance problems. If there are none, I consider what I’d be willing to pay for the vehicle brand new (since I view cars as tools for making money, this tops out at $20,000 for me regardless of the vehicle; you may be willing to spend $40,000, $60,000 or more for nicer cars) and divide that number by 200,000 (what I consider to be the reliable lifetime miles of a vehicle) which gives me a maximum value of $0.10, as low as $0.06 for an economy car. Subtract the current mileage from 200,000 and multiply that number by the value you came up with and you have the maximum purchase price for the vehicle. For your 143,000 mile car, if there are no significant problems and you consider the new value to be equivalent to my maximum, the car is worth buying for under $5,700.
Too much mileage for a used 2002 Honda accord?
I checked the Kelly Blue book on this vehicle.In "Good" condition,you should pay $3,700 to $3,500 for this car.That R/R rim is dangerous and should be replaced.The mileage is OK for a Honda.At 147K that car is just getting warmed up.I'm assuming scheduled maintenance was done on time,every time.Yes,for peace of mind;the timing belt should be replaced.Considering the belt change and cost of wheel,I would pay no more than 3,800 to $4,000 for it,NOT $5,995! A bank has the title(I'm assuming) and they want their money back,some shrewd dealing should bring the price down.Good Luck.By the way,my Accord has 270,000 and is as reliable as day one.
Is it bad to buy a car with over 100k mileage?
I am attaching a picture of the first car I owned. A 2004 Hyundai Sonata V6 that I bought in 2010 and I had it for around 18 months. It had 104,000 Miles on it when I got it for $4500 and it had 130,000 Miles on it when I sold it to a dealer for about $3700, when it was going to need a timing belt change soon.I ensured that the car was in good condition when I got it, the only money that I had to spend on it was for oil changes. Insurance was $65 or so per month. It was the top of the line model. Pretty powerful, handled reasonably well, leather seats, good AC and everything in the car worked. I have never owned a car since that was a better bargain or cost me lower per mile to drive. I even spotted it on the road a year or so later and it still seemed to be going good.Hitting 100,000 Miles is one of the most significant events in the history of a car with respect to depreciation. However, much like how a new car depreciates quite a bit the moment it is driven off the lot, the reason for such depreciation is more psychological than rational. There is no reason to believe a car with 101,000 is any less reliable than a car with 97,000 miles but they usually have a considerable price difference. This usually means, if you are careful about the vehicle you pick and ensure that the car in question has been maintained well throughout its life, a car that has just crossed 100,000 miles is among the best bargains you can find.Most cars that have been made in the last 15–20 years are very reliable machines. Even the brands not conventionally well known for making long lasting vehicles, like American, Korean car makers etc have made tremendous improvements in overall vehicle reliability and often offer much better deals than a Honda or a Toyota which depreciate slower due to their reputation for reliability.If you are in the market for a really cheap but still reasonably reliable car, cars with 100,000+ miles on them are an excellent place to start looking. The only caveats would be to ensure the particular vehicle you are considering is in good condition and you are fully aware of potential maintenance work or consumables that may fail in the near future and set aside enough money to be able to afford having such work done.
What is too much mileage for a used motorcycle?
Everything else begin EXACTLY the same (for ex. price, make, body, quality, year, etc),: 1) above what mileage would you not even considered purchasing the bike 2) between what mileages might you possibly buy it 3) what mileage would the bike be a steal Im getting a motorcycle this coming summer and im trying to decide between buying a brand new but low in power bike or a used, more powerful bike (any input on this would be appreciated as well)
Does mileage matter as much with a Tesla?
Not like a gasoline car.There is no engine or transmission to be overhauled. Brakes are barely used. Systems are way simpler mechanically, so there is way less to go wrong.The batteries do not degrade much. In other EVs with susceptible batteries like the Nissan Leaf, and even in a Tesla with near perfect batteries or otherwise, battery level is a better signal of value than miles.When you sell the car, there may be a lingering perception from tradition that high miles decreases value, and to a limited extent it is still true as it is an indication of overall use, but consumers do tend to sort these values out over time.Many Teslas have sold used for more than the new price.I think Tesla’s unilateral increase of the warranty for prior buyers demonstrates best how little miles matter on a Tesla. They increased it from 8 years or 100,000 miles to 8 years, infinite miles (no limit on miles).Doing this unilaterally after the sale meant analysts had to downgrade the company value because of the huge liability they suddenly took on to keep in repair thousands of cars. Musk wrote in the letter not to worry, the stock price will rebound, because this action shows tremendous confidence in the longetivity of our cars.
How does U-Haul's mileage fee work?
Most commonly, for in town rentals [meaning it is picked up from a location and returned to the SAME location], your mileage fee starts from 0.0 miles on up at the predetermined rate. I've seen a couple different rates for different regional areas in my time, but currently in the St. Louis area you're looking at a $0.79 per mile rate for a pickup day of Sunday through Thursday, or $0.99 per mile for a pickup day of Friday or Saturday.For a one way rental [meaning you pickup at one location and drop off at any other location, regardless if it's up the street or across the country], you'll begin with an included amount of mileage, which varies depending on how far the different cities are from each other. U-Haul is generally pretty good with overestimating the amount of mileage necessary to get where you need to go via the shortest route with around 20–50 miles left over. After you go through the included mileage, however, you'll be charged $0.40 per mile for every mile after that, which is collected at the time of drop off. So say for example your rental included 100 miles. You get to the drop off location and you went a total of 125 miles. So 25 miles x $0.40 per mile would be charged [along with any other fees not mileage related you may have incurred] plus tax if applicable in your state and collected at the drop off location.Hope this helps.
What is the mileage and maintenance cost of a Royal Enfield Bullet 350cc Electra Twinspark?
My Electra 350cc is at 3800km and I'm getting a mileage of 42 to 44 kmpl consistently for past 5 refuels.Maintenance cost:Engine oil costs Rs. 720/- (replace every 6000km)Teflon coating: Rs. 380/- (every 6 months)Chain lube 500ml: Rs. 600/- (lube every 500km)Chain cleaner 500ml: Rs. 600/- (clean every 1500km)Pressure wash: Rs. 90/-Wheel alignment: Rs. 240/-Spare clutch cable: Rs. 250/-That's about it. If you give too much care, maintenance cost will be around Rs. 3000–4000 per year, else it will be lesser.
What mileage is too high for purchasing a BMW?
Sometimes you’re better off getting a really high (200k+ mile) car than a lower mileage car - although you’ll definitely want records of what has been replaced.BMW’s are known for having generally reliable engines, but lots of maintenance items that wear out in 60–120k miles. If you’re buying a car that’s just out of warranty, then some of these items will have been replaced for sure, but some of them are probably on the way out. If you’re buying a car with 100–150k miles, there’s always the possibility that the seller has been holding of on replacing parts after the warranty ran out, but it hasn’t quite caught up to them yet in terms of the car breaking down.If you’re buying a car with 200k+ though, you know that someone has been replacing parts at some point. What you want at that point is receipts showing recent maintenance.I bought an E36 BMW with over 250k miles. It came with $8k in receipts for parts/labor done since about 200k. One of the first things I did was a compression test to make sure that the engine was in good shape, and it had great compression.The car definitely has some issues, most of which are with parts that are likely original, but overall it’s been reliable and hasn’t taken much to keep on the road.