My brand new John Deere JS26 push mower will not start?
I just purchased my john deere a few weeks ago. I've used the mower twice and it has taken about 6-10 pulls to start each time. I've noticed there is no primer on this model. This third week I spent an hour pulling and fiddling and could not for the life of me get it started. I have looked through the operating manual and I can't find anything wrong with the mower (spark plug is fine, filter is clean, oil is full and clean, and gas was new that day). One thing that has me confused is the diagram decal on the handle showing the starting instructions. Step four involves a key of some sort, but i've never needed one to start in the past. Any information will helpful. I will call john deere next week if this doesn't get answered. Thank you.
Can you use a 5W-30 detergent oil in a John Deere riding mower?
If you went to your local John Deere retail store or just a store that sells John Deere and their parts and ask for John Deere oil so you could change the oil in your John Deere tractor you would most likely find that it’s Non-Detergent and a weight suited for your area. Most engines that do not have an oil filter use non-detergent oil. Detergent oil suspends the dirty particles in the oil to be removed by the filter. Non-detergent oil lets the dirt and grit settle to the bottom of the pan / crankcase so it doesn’t get circulated through the pump and bearings. However I’ve never had an engine failure due to type nor weight of oil but I change mine at the end of each season and at some point mid-ways through the season. So, if you’d like to use 5W30 oil in your tractor I see no problem just service it according to your needs i.e. how much your tractor is used ( long hours large area ) now why change at the end of the season? Wear doesn’t only occur while parts are moving, exhaust gasses moisture get mixed in with your oil and creates an acid. Setting all winter with this condition slowly eats away at bearing / metal surfaces. So changing the oil before you stow it for the winter can give you many years of trouble free service.
We have 1 acre of property. Should we get a riding mower or a push mower?
It all depends on how much of your acre is lawn. If you have mostly large areas, it is better to have a riding mower. Just remember it is healthy to cut your lawn in a different direction every time you mow to keep your lawn healthy. At the same time you might need both riding and push mowers because you might have some areas that your riding mower cannot access, unless that access is small enough to so with a weed eater. Riding mowers are more expensive even in repairs. Personly, I like the effect that the push mowers have in tghe cuts.And if pushing is an issue, the self-propelled are great. Usually the only I would get a riding mower is if I didn't have time to spend cutting the lawn or........if I was just plain to lazy to cut the lawn any other way. But if you yourself are willing to take the time to do the work, I would definately say self-propelled mower.
L130 John Deer Lawn Mower problem?
my dad has a L130 John Deer Riding Lawn Mower. it currently started to present problems when mowing. it does fine when going straight... but... when you turn to go up a hill, it is having problems pulling itself and even stops. the belt is brand new. any suggestions? it is also well kept and never been rained on.
How do I keep my weed eater and zero turn mower running and out of the shop every spring?
There are lots of things specific to certain makes/models, but here are some general ideas for you:In the fall, use compressed air to blow dirt and debris off any engine parts and inspect for leaks, cracked hoses, exposed wires, loose connections etc. and repair anything as needed. A clean engine is a cool engine.Make sure to leave fresh oil in the mower over winter by changing it right before you put it away (the old oil contains corrosive acids). If it gets freezing in your climate, consider bringing the battery inside over the winter, and then charge it for a few hours before putting it back in next spring.DO NOT keep old gas in the trimmer over the winter...it will gum up the carburetor. Consider using a fuel stabilizer, and at the very least dump the old gas out.Make sure you measure the proper amount of 2-cycle oil in the mixed gas.Make sure there is very little gas in the mower over winter, and use some PREMIUM gas when starting it in the spring, helps clean it out.Keeping the mower blades sharp cuts down on premature wear of moving parts like belts, pulleys, bearings etc.Read the manual for your machine, and wherever it says to grease your machine, DO IT! Nothing ruins a machine faster than not having proper lubrication.Hope this helps!
Where can I find a lawn mower battery charger?
You just need to get in touch with Black & Decker (link posted below). Did you lose your charger or did it stop charging? The early versions of the mower were recalled because of the charging circuit inside the mower blowing out (and sometimes catching fire). There are instructions on how to determine if you're covered under the recall but I can tell you that if you look on the metal decal on the rear of the mower you will find embossed into the metal a "level" number. Levels one thru four were recalled and you get new charging stuff free! Totally ignore the people telling you to use other chargers! They don't understand the mower you've got and their advice will destroy (at the very least) the 24 volt battery pack! edit: Decided to add some details on the charger for this mower. The part you need is *not* the charger, the actual charger is built into your mower and (looking inside with the cover off) is located next to the 'key' circuit board or built onto the 'key' board depending on what level (version) of the mower you have. The big black 'wall wart' (transformer) is just to supply power to the charger and changes voltage and amperage based on signals sent from the actual charger. That's why it has three wires-one is hot, one is common ground and the third is signal. Also all level 4 and newer mowers have a thermal breaker mounted in the battery pack! Attempting to 'hot shot' charge the pack off non-standard chargers will blow the breaker and you get to also replace the pack (It's epoxied between the two batteries that make up the pack). Just so you know I've been using this model since it first came out (and the deck/key were green not orange). I sold my first one to my next door neighbor when I moved. Bought a new one around 1999 and used it until it was destroyed along with everything else in a house fire (caused by a candle-not the mower
What happens when you put regular gas in a diesel john deere tractor?
Ok. I'll try to make it simple. Obviously you know that Diesel engines should not be run with Gasoline. This will depend on how large your tank is on that tractor, but if its like any tractor I've used, you should not cause any damage with 1/4 gallon of gasoline. It may run rough and smoke more then usual, but keep topping it up with diesel, this will lessen the % of gasoline in the fuel. IF you feel you want to drain it, that is easy. Get yourself a siphon pump. Its very easy to use. Its a small hand pump with 2 hoses. Put one in the tank, and one in an empty container. Pump it until you remove all the fuel and it is in the container. I'm sure you do burning like we do, so you can use the fuel you remove for that. Good luck, if you need any more advice or have questions, feel free to ask. jonathansauceda@ymail.com
Can I pour leftover lawnmower gas in my car? No, the lawnmower wasn't a 2-cycle. I bought a battery electric mower to replace the gas mower.
Gas is gas. There’s no such thing as lawnmower gas. There’s gasoline (for 4-stroke motors) and 2-stroke fuel (gasoline plus a low-viscosity oil, mixed in different proportions). Aged gas is aged gas. If it’s been in the mower too long, it won’t be GOOD for your car, but it won’t really hurt it either. It will just have some shellac in it from the age. In such a case, add a bottle of fuel additive to keep your injectors clean.
Why is antifreeze coming out of the exhaust? What can I do?
First, you're positive that it's coolant? Green and matches the stuff in your radiator? I ask because you will have a certain amount of condensation developing in the exhaust pipe and this increases in cold weather so it may look like a bunch of water is coming out when it's just normal condensation.If you're sure it's coolant, your vehicle should also be running poorly as that means your head gasket is blown and coolant is getting into the cylinder(s). Coolant in the cylinder is very bad and you should stop operating the vehicle immediately or risk further (more expensive) damage.