Adjusting steering wheel Ford ranger?
I felt the plastic part that holds the steering wheel to the car and didn't feel a lever or anything, is that where I would look? Under the wheel? I hope it has one cuz I'm short and the wheel seriously interfers with me checking my speed
Airbags or just a lowering kit?
What are you going for? Personally I never understood why anyone would ever lower a truck. It seems contradictory to the purpose of a truck except for racing trucks. But to me the whole bagged mini truck deal is pointless and the only thing more pointless is a full sized bagged truck. It just looks like you have broken suspension when its slammed on the ground. Bagging a full size truck is like putting a lift kit on a civic...yeah it may be "original" but it looks retarded. However, being as you did not ask for my opinion... I would say that a lowering kit, if done properly like a car, would provide better handling if you do research and get proper spring rates and shocks that are designed to damper with the selected springs. The only advantage to bags would be the ability to raise it when needed. Im just gonna stick to my lowered cars and lifted trucks.
What does it mean when my cars rpms rise and lower while it is parked?
Alright. this is a common problem with older Hondas, mine included. It's what we call a "Hunting Idle". Now, there are a few things that cause this, one is air in the cooling system, another is a bad Idle Air Control Valve, and another is a Vacuum Leak. I found a video that should help you out with correcting this issue. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEVb... This guy makes good videos and I would suggest watching some of his.
Ford Ranger won't start, doesn't appear to be a battery or fuel problem?
My 1998 Ford Ranger has me guessing at a problem again. This morning, when I attempted to start it to go to work, it wouldn't start. It wouldn't even attempt to start. The headlights looked bright, the radio worked, and all the warning lights were on as normal, but the car won't turn over. After being advised to, I tried to jump start it, and jumping it had no effect. It is a stick shift, and my best guess is that the safety switch that prevents you from starting with the clutch engaged has jammed or failed. My questions: What else could the problem potentially be? How would I find and test the previously mentioned clutch safety switch? Once I find it, is there a way to bypass it so I can test it to make sure it is indeed the problem?
Will the speedometer on a car read faster or slower if you change the tire size, as the rotation increases or decreases?
Yes.Which way will depend on how the diameter changed. If the tire has gotten larger, you’ll record fewer rotations per actual mile, making the speedo “optimistic” - you’ll be going faster than is indicated.Conversely, if you put on smaller diameter tires, the number of revolutions per actual mile will increase, causing you to believe that you’re going faster than you are.There are a very, very few systems that use GPS to reckon speed. Those are not affected by tire size, but may be by inability to achieve satellite lock.
Why does my car momentarily lose power after shifting gears?
You've asked several questions here...and also given some information that may have an impact on the answers you might get. You mention that the clutch is about to "go". If this is the case, it is typically manifested by "clutch slip" which is when you press the accelerator and the engine speeds up, but the car doesn't go any faster..i.e. the clutch is "slipping" against the flywheel/pressure plate without transferring the increased rpm of the engine to the transmission. If the clutch is indeed slipping, then this phenomenon is most noticeable right after you change gears, because your putting more demands on the engine (i.e. accelerating) and attempting to put more torque from the engine into the transmission (via the clutch) which causes it to slip more than it might in steady-state driving at a constant speed. If you are experiencing a slipping clutch you most likely need to replace it and afterward the car should accelerate smoothly and there will be a synchronicity between engine speed and car speed.Now, if your clutch is NOT slipping and your experiencing a perceived loss of power after shifting gears, it may just be that the engine rpm are dropping off too far before you reengage the clutch and resume acceleration. If this is the case, you may be taking too much time between disengaging the clutch (by pressing the clutch pedal) and re-engaging it (by lifting off the clutch pedal) When shifting gears, the clutch pedal should be pressed and released fairly quickly as part of a smooth, movement synchronized with moving the shift lever from one gear to the next. If you are pausing in the middle of the shift, or taking too long to reengage the clutch, the engine rpm will fall and the engine will be making less power than it was at the higher rpm level it was when you initiated your gear change. The idea is to keep the engine in a range of rpm that produces enough power to smoothly take up the level of acceleration you're trying to achieve while changing up through the gears.
Looking for a lift kit for a 2WD 1972 Ford F250 truck?
My grandpa left me his truck when he died, and now that ive got it running good i'd like to put a better stance on it. I went to a local shop (expertoffroad in Plano), and they wanted like $1200 for a 3' full suspension lift kit, which includes new rear leafsprings and new springs for the front but it doesnt even include shocks (considering I only have around $500 in the truck), of course I could buy the body lift for only $99.99 but they dont make bumper brackets for this year truck so the bumpers would not be raised with the body and that would look goofy. Does anyone know of a good website to buy a lift kit for this truck and or do they know a place near Richardson Tx, that isnt expertoffroad or 4wheel parts. Id like to rise just to fit some 33in tires maybe even 35's, and I am trying to keep it under $400 including shocks. I think my best shot is just to buy some oversized shocks and springs and get an add a leaf kit, but I would like to replace the rear leafsprings due to its age.
Should I lift or lower my truck?
Lift or Lower? Brother says lower, best friend says lift it. Which would look better on this truck? heres a picture of it http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n146/MikeSteinmetz/003-6.jpg 2002 Ford Ranger
How do you replace the lower ball joint on a 1999 F150?
One i don't care if its dangerous or not. I need this thing done by Sunday cause i start college on Monday. We have the old one out. We are replacing both lowers driver and passenger. We have the driver side one in but we can't get the stud into the wheel assembly. The stud on the ball joint is towards the ground and not up towards the wheel well. We tried to raise the control arm up high enough to slide the wheel assembly hole into it, but when we get close the CV joint for the 4x4 gets in the way. My dad and i have thought about taking that CV join out to give us more room but that may not work and its a hassle just to do it. Also, we CAN'T afford to have it taken in and have a mechanic do it. And we rather do it ourselves, but we have asked for help from NAPA, Advanced Auto and O'Reily's and none of them have had it done before or done it before on any vehicle. I've asked this once before but that was no help so I'm asking again for help. Its not difficult for someone to do, but its difficult if you've never done it before. Long as you can get it in right nothing can go wrong. The freakin truck has 217,000, and the engine hasn't been rebuilt neither has the transmission. And it needs to last me at least 2 more years or atleast til i can find my own vehicle. Just need help/advice on what to do. Taking it into a mechanic is not an option. We do have family members that could help but they are out of state right now on road construction.
1967 ford f100 2wd lift kit?
i can not find any lift kits for my 2wd 1967 ford f100 long bed......i plan on having 35" tires on her so i will need about 5 inches of lift for the 35" tires....but if possible i would like to end up with a 12"-18" lift for the 48" tires that i have in my shop