2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R?
Was just curious as to what you guys think about it for a beginning bike? My parents are considered about the speed at which my first bike will go, considering I have always been known to test limits since I was little haha. Would I be able to keep up on the highways?
What is the target rpm for a ninja 250r?
Check manual for idle- about 1000+- rpm is usual range for a 250 twin. Try shifting at 4000 rpm- was where little CM400 Honda twin seems to like loafing. 6000 rpm is for getting out of way of truck going through the light that just turned green you were stopped at. redline shifts are for drag strip and expect to rebuild engine if you do it a lot. .
How high can I rev my ninja 250?
Right up to that little red part on the tach and NOT a bit more. Depending on the year your bike was made, your redline will be 15,500rpm (1988-1995), 14,500rpm (1996 -2005) or 14,000rpm (2006-present). I haven't ridden a little ninja in years, so I can't remember exactly where it runs best, but most bikes make the most of their power between about half of redline and 3/4s of redline. So, for your bike, between 7500rpm and 11,000rpm. 3 to 4000rpm may be too low for cruising. You don't want to lug the engine.
Kawasaki Ninja 300 Clutch. Very Easy to Stall?
I'll preface by stating the obvious. I'm a new rider, this is my first motorcycle, and I literally got on a motorcycle for the first time 3 days ago. Also, I'm signed up for the local safety course, but they were completely full for 3 weeks, so I'm just riding around the neighborhood practicing. I wear a helmet and all the necessary safety gear. Now my question. I understand the concept of the friction zone, what causes stalls, and how to get going from a full stop. But it seems like unless I take at least 1 second to release the clutch very smoothly, the bike stalls or comes very close. Even if I give it 4000 rpm and smoothly increase the throttle as I release the clutch, if it's not super smooth and slow, the bike sputters or stalls. Is it supposed to require such precision to get going from a stop, or am I doing something wrong? Should I be giving it a lot more gas if I want a faster clutch release, or is this just the way it works? Here's a little more info for any additional questions: -The bike is used, but was a 600 mile trade in at a reputable dealership, and they did a full inspection. -It gets exactly 1250 rpm while idling -It has good gas, proper fluid levels, and everything appears to be in perfect condition -I learned how to ride on YouTube and managed to make it home in one piece from the dealer (lol) Thanks for any input.
How do you fix a motorcycle battery not holding a charge?
This could be one of several things. In order to test all of them, you need a small multimeter, you can get on for ten bucks.First, you need a battery that is fresh and holds a charge. Which means you should charge your battery overnight, and then let it sit for a couple hours. If it drops below 12.4 volts DC or so, it’s shot. A 12 volt battery typically should rest at 12.7 volts DC or so. If it’s shot, buy a new one and charge it. Then install it.Now start the bike up and check voltage at the battery terminals. It should read in the 13’s at idle and rise to 14.4 to 14.7 volts of Direct Current at 4000 RPM. If the voltage does not rise this far, the regulator/rectifier is shot.Now, with the bike running test the voltage at the three prong plug that the regulator rectifier plugs into. Check prong A to prong B, prong B to prong C, and prong C to prong A. All of them should be about the same, and 60+ volts at 4000 rpm is an ideal voltage. That’s alternating current, not direct. If one of them is much lower, replace the alternator.Chances are your battery is shot. Why? Because weak batteries do better in the heat. Now that winter is here, they start failing and this is the time of year when they start showing up.
Does riding a bike mostly on high rpm damage the engine?
It depends on “What” bike you are riding. Rev-free engines, as the name indicates that you can rev till the redline without causing any trouble. The rev limiter works brilliantly at right time, the liquid cooling keeps the engine at optimum temperature, etcWhile new gen Pulsars starting from NS is very rev friendly, but still not as much rev friendlier compared to say R15, for example. You of course can rev it to redline many times without giving much trouble to the engine, but the body of RS is more prone to brick or loosen making rattling noises there after as we already know plenty of haunted stories about RS fairing rattling stuffs.Most of the sports bikes are always rev friendly and of course has to be as the RPM needs to lie at the max power band to keep the racer always some power backed up. I usually keep the bike at max torque rather than power (which is ~1000 rpm lesser) to get sufficient pickup. In your case, 8K - 9K is not bad, as that is the max torque starts building up. Plus, 8–9K is not rev limit, but imagine at such RPM in gear 6, you would do 110+ kph which is more than your need..and is the limit for two wheelers in Indian roads.With Pulsar, the problem will happen, but eventually over a long period. Follow some tipsReplace coolant if it is insufficient or is very old (say more than 16 months)Try some better coolant as wellUse good grade engine oil, Bajaj engine oil is good PERIOD, not as excellent when it comes to high revving. Use Motul 7100 or 300V if you want to rev higher.Another problem is insufficient air flow like in naked bikes, so give some break once a whileIf I were you, I’d keep my RPM always below that… but occasionally raising itLess RPM → Less Heat → Less wear and tear → Long life
Has anybody had any problems with their Kawasaki Ninja 250 at low rpm?
I have a Kawasaki Ninja 250 and it doesn't run good under 4000 rpm. Above that it works fine. If you let it idle down then try to accelerate it's like it loads up with fuel. Once the rpms go past 4000 it cleans out and runs fine. Also it doesn't idle smoothly. It only has 55 miles on it and has good gas in the tank.
How do I shift correctly on my Kawasaki Ninja 500?
It can be explained to you in writing, but you should think about taking a MSC/MSF course, if you don't even know how to downshift. I guarantee you there are plenty of other things you don't know how to do either. Be less worried about ruining your first bike, and more worried about ruining your health. I started out riding doing exactly what you describe; shifting up normally, then coming to a stop, and clicking it down to 1st. Eventually I tried doing it properly; letting off the gas, pulling in the clutch lever, clicking firmly down on the shift lever, slowly letting the clutch lever back out, as you roll back on to the gas. It'll be rough at first, but it'll come along with practice. Seriously though, invest a few buck in a riding course. It'll pay for itself tenfold.
1980 Honda cb900 high idle?
If the carbs were replaced. make sure that the throttle cable has some free play and it's not pulling on the carbs. It also sounds like there is a fuel delivery problem, reset your mixture screws. Turn them in all the way, and start with a half turn out. Turn them quarter turn until the idle smooths and runs good. You'll have to adjust the idle speed as you go along. Not real hard, just time consuming. I would recommend getting the carbs synced (vacuum, mercury) after you've adjusted to make sure they are even. Good luck
What speed (approx) should I maintain on my new Yamaha FZs Fi?
Ohh…new bike, new bike….So breaking in the engine. I would suggest you the motoman's run in or the hard run in techniques.Basically it's this“Run the engine to its max power and torque delivering RPM in every gear. In short, ride hard in every gear”Something new and different from what you hear, right?The reason is, your engine is more in tune to perform. If you restrict that in the break in period, then how would you expect it to do it later on once the break in is done. And most of the break in is already done by the time odo reached 300kms.Now, riding hard in every gear is and won't be possible in Indian road conditions. Hence, ride as much as you can in every gear. That also doesn't mean you ride like a squid and be a dickhead. Ride normally, but instead of shifting at 4k, shift at 9k. For every gear.If it feels like stuffs are going out of hand, don't push it. Stop acceleration and get down to a level where you would are and able to control the bike.Remember, the bike is learning how much you are expecting out of it in a short span of 300–500kms. You need to give that knowledge within that period.And no, the fuel efficiency does NOT go down if you ride like that. Post first servicing, even if you rip it to the max, the FE shows very little change. Let's say a drop of 3–4kmpl at max. Can't put a finger on the number, but the difference won't be much.So go for a hard or a motoman's run in. And do try not to be a squid and a danger to anyone in the road.Hope this helpsAs always, please ride with a proper riding gear and certified helmet.Ciao.