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My 95 S-10 Is Leaking Fuel

Will driving with a oil leak in the valve cover gasket hurt the engine? If so, how can this be prevented?

Is it an oil leak or an oil seep? Does oil run down the side of the engine leaving a clean trail as oil drips on the ground? Or does it just form a nasty, mucky oil-dirt combination that slowly builds?If it's actually a leak, get it fixed now. You can lose sufficient oil to starve the engine and cause premature wear or even failure. On top of that, you have an oil slick being left wherever you go, oil is probably dripping on the exhaust causing nasty fumes (not to mention a potential fire hazard) and you are having to spend money on oil that is just going to hit the ground. Not to mention it's not exactly good for those plants by your driveway to have oil washing into them.If it's a seep, don't ignore it. Get it fixed. If you have to wait a week or 2 for financial reasons, that's understandable, but don't push it out too far as it can develop into a leak. In addition, the dirt, cottonwood fluff, dandelion seeds, etc that can get stuck in the slime will do a few detrimental things. For one, it insulates your engine raising operating temperature a bit. Most cars engine oil relies on the side of the block and the oil pan to radiate heat away. Remember, oil functions as a lubricant, cleaner, and coolant! If the block and pan are caked over in grime, it is harder for the oil to transfer it's heat through the pan and into the air. This grime can also pose a serious fire hazard. Not fun.

What are possible causes of my car running rich on fuel?

I have a 95 S-10 Blazer and it is loading up and is using a lot of fuel. It is also producing black smoke when reving the engine up. I took it to auto zone and had them test the computer to see if anything was wrong internally. It said the oxygen sensor wasnt receiving enough charge and that it was running dry on fuel and I know that is incorect. I assumed there was a problem with the computer so I unhooked the battery post for 20 mins to reset the computer and the car still had a rough time starting. I reved the engine up a few times and it seemed to level out and run well again. That only lasted about 20 seconds then it started loading up again. I would like some advice. Is it my oxygen sensor bad or is my computer bad or something else.

Will exhaust leaks at manifold gaskets cause the engine to misfire?

I'm going to address the issue that has so far been overlooked. Most gasoline passenger and light duty trucks on the road today utilize electronically controlled fuel injection. Exhaust manifold leaks have the effect of “fooling” the oxygen sensor. Exhaust gas travels in pulses with high and low pressure zones. Exhaust gas leaks out during the high pressure event. Outside air is drawn INTO the leaking area during the low pressure event. The result is an oxygen sensor that reports a lean condition. (Too much air in relation to fuel). The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will then increase fuel delivery to compensate. With a leak of sufficient magnitude, the PCM can end up substantially increasing fuel delivery in an attempt to “correct” the perceived lean condition. The engine (or that half of the engine) actually ends up running quite over- rich (Too much fuel in relation to air). Spark plug fouling can result, which in turn may lead to a MISFIRE. If this situation occurred on , for instance, a 98 Ford F150 with a V8, the following may be present. Lean exhaust code and misfire codes set on the bank with the exhaust leak present. The exhaust leak did not cause an immediate misfire. But it is the root cause of the resulting mayhem.

What is the cause of white smoke from the exhaust and fuel smell?

White smoke and the smell of raw gas out the exhaust. Is a definite sign of running rich.Condensation well mostly disappear. Along with not having the smell of gas vapors. Once the engine reaches operating temp.Are there any check engine lights displaying. From the ECU/PMC throwing a error code. Causing the engine to run limp mode?When was the last time the fuel pressure was checked? Too much will extra gas, pass through the injectors. Much like changing the Injector Pulse Width MAP.A hanging injector will mostly likely cause cylinder(s) to fill with gas. Depending on what intake valves are open, along with intake manifold. The fuel system stays pressurized, even tho fuel pump is shut off. Allowing the pressure to bleed off through the injector(s). By keeping the system under pressure. Allows for quicker starts. Because there is no lag, while the fuel pump rebuilds the lost pressure.Running that rich can/will cause the oil film. On the cylinder walls, getting washed off leading to scuffing.I could see the white smoke, smell the gas. When adjusting fuel pressure on my super charged CRX Sir, may it R.I.P....

Can the fuel/oil pressure switch cause the fuel pump to not come on?

I own a shop, and have done extensive fuel systems work. Most GM vehicles are wired through the oil pressure sending unit (located by the oil filter, or top back of engine) and is done so as a safety feature. When involved in an accident, the engine stops running. As it stops running, it also looses oil pressure, and since the fuel pump is wired through this switch, no oil pressure equals no fuel pump. When you turn your ignition switch to the on position, you hear the fuel pump come on momentarily for 3-4 seconds. This primes the fuel pump pressure that may have leaked off, but does not run the pump. The system has a momentary relay (latch) that pulls in when energised to supply the pump with power, but once the latch heats up, the circuit opens, and if no oil pressure is there, the engine doesn't run. One can test this circuit simply by purchasing a spray can of carburetor/choke cleaner, spray 3-4 seconds into intake of engine (with throttle held wide open). Remove spray, and start the engine. If it runs for a few seconds and stalls, repeat the procedure. This test primes the fuel system, checks the fire from the ignition, and isolates the problem to the fuel delivery system. All GM systems has a fuel pump test wire (usually around the brake booster or left fender) that is red. Connect a 12 (+) wire momentarily to this wire, and the pump should run as long as you keep this wire hooked up. Many fuel delivery problems can be resolved due to grounding issues such as; no ground strap from engine to fire wall, or no ground at tank to frame. Even the ground at the battery (-) terminal has a wire that bolts to the body, and/or the frame that can cause all kinds of problems. Finally the fuel pressure regulator can have a vacuum hose that is sucking air around the hose, cracked, fell off, collapsing, or clogged keeping the fuel pressure from building up enough to run the engine. As always; One must have a clean fuel filter, no leaks in the line, and the return line to the tank must be free, and without clogs.
Glad to help out, Good Luck!!!

1984 chevrolet caprice that smell like gas?

Could be leaking from the fuel inlet/fuel filter housing. Get a 1 inch wrench and make sure its tight... but don't over tighten it!

Why does my check engine light come on after getting gas?

As many have mentioned, it's not simple to answer without more information. There are a number of emmisions fault codes that can occur when fueling for a variety of reasons. Heres a few-Various leak codes. The fuel tank isn't just a can with a pipe in from the filler neck and a pipe out to the fuel line to the motor. There is also also ventilation system that corrects for tank pressure changes allowing air to enter when needed while keeping fuel vapor from escaping, and can pull that fuel vapor into the intake system of the engine.The most common leak issue is a loose or misplaced filler cap that causes a major leak code. Next is a failed seal on the fuel filler cap causing a minor lack code. After that you have the charcoal canister shutoff valve sticking open due to a mechanical failure or due to debris from the charcoal canister caused by impact, consistent over filling, or age. Next would be the purge valve sticking open or closed. Finally hard system leaks such as a cracked hose or seal at the level sensor assembly.Overfilling can affect the charcoal canister by degrading the charcoal filter and causing the valve to stick. This system was only designed for vapor and not liquid fuel.As the fuel tank is semi flexible, the weight of the fuel will normally distort the tank and allow for some leaks due to dried or failed seals to be fuel level dependent.Finally there are the weird ones… found a low-jack transmitter installation gone awry. The installer screwed the mount through the floor under the seat into the fuel tank. Once he realized fuel was leaking on the ground he pulled the screw out, out some sealant on it and screwed it back in the hole. The customer only got a minor leak code when they had a full tank and the weight pulled the tank down off the screw.Found couple plastic tanks cracked at a seam. Also found issues due to distortion and swelling of the plastic tank from E85 and MTBE. There were a few metal tanks with braised hose junctions that separated. One tank actually collapsed and crushed due to a stuck shutoff valve and a bad sensor.Good luck.

My check engine light sometimes comes on after 30 or so minutes of driving, and especially right after being refueled, what could this indicate?

With your description of when the check engine light comes on I’d have to agree with Eric. The check engine light is most likely an Evap. code. Most likely a small or large Evap. leak, other possibilities include purge solenoid, FTP or Evap. vent. Take your car to a shop with scanner capabilities to pull the codes. Even if the check engine light isn’t on at that time a technician with good scanner skills will be able to either look up past history codes or observe live data to properly diagnose. Your car is safe to drive, however if your going to need to get it registered and live in a state where a smog certificate is needed you’ll need to fix the problem. Just make sure the check engine light doesn’t start flashing and if it does get it checked ASAP because your then costing yourself more money to repair with every flash you see. Good luck and hope this helps.

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