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My Car Is Shaking. What Do I Fix Or Replace

How do you fix the shaking of the front end of the car?

Shaking of the front end is either wheels out of balance or something loose.So start out looking for WHEN it occurs. If it is at high speed, but never at low speed, you might suspect the wheel/tire balance first.But if it is at lower speeds, and particularly if your definition of “shaking” is like mine, I'd say you have wear in the suspension/steering parts, or possibly just out of alignment (like the supermarket carts with the wobbly wheel since it has been bent under a bit). Take the weight off the front end with a lift or jack stands (never get under a car on the jack) and shake different parts to find the one that moves, and take a bar or something to see whether the wheels will move up and down from loose or worn bearings.All of this s something a tire shop would be good at pin-pointing, as they normally have the equipment and knowledge. But the longer you wait, the higher the bill will be in the end, as the forces will wear out other parts. You may need a simple pitman or idle arm bushing that costs $10, but the forces of the wobbling can damage $500 wheel bearings or $200 ball joints.

Car shaking after ball joint replacement?

I just had new tires installed (which the mechanic said were the correct size for my vehicle) and balanced. I also had the left sway bar linkage and both bottom ball joints replaced. The vehicle is a 99' ford Explorer.

Now the mechanic said that the new ball joints would cause the vechicle to shake while turning for about a week. This doesn't sound right to me at all. The car does indeed shake pretty badly when going through some low speed cornering. Does this sound right?

Car shaking after flat tire.?

a nail punctured my back left tire and i had to put in the small spare tire in so i can get to work.

I came home late so the next day, i put some Fix a tire Fluid in and stick in one of those black sticky stick into the wheel to fill the hole.

now when i go on the highway, my car shakes like it's going to break down.

could it be the tire fixing sticky rubber stick that i put in the tire and the fluid to fill it. Or could it be something else? Should i just get a new tire?

Why is my car shaking and the check engine light flashing?

A shaking vehicle AND flashing MIL ("check engine light") sound like the vehicle is misfiring on at least one cylinder. As @Anna Nguyen, @Brendan Sinclair, @Antoun Nabhan and others have said, it could be an ignition related problem. It could also be fuel-related. If one or more fuel injectors are clogged or dead, that would also cause a misfire in the affected cylinder(s). These are relatively cheap/easy things to check and fix.Other causes (which could be more complicated and more expensive) to fix include contaminated fuel, a bent intake or exhaust valve, a broken valve spring, a damaged piston/connecting rod, and on and on.I recommend getting a scan tool and checking the codes which are causing the MIL to light/flash and I also strongly recommend NOT driving the vehicle until the problem is fixed. If you continue to drive the vehicle as is, you will exacerbate the problem. Dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust due to a misfire will overheat and kill your catalytic converter. A more serious problem like a bent valve can eventually cause you to crater your engine (i.e.: completely destroy the engine).

Why is my car shaking after replacing tires and tie-rods?

It's not wheel alignment. That is a common misconception. Wheel alignment does not cause a car to shake it causes uneven tire wear. Also if the mechanic didn't do an alignment your tires would probably be bald in spots because if the alignment is even 1/4" off if you drive 3 miles it puts about a 1,000 miles wear on the tires. The person who told you to get your tires balanced is absolutely right. You should probably get them rotated too. There are a few things that can cause the steering wheel to shake but that's the main one. You can also have the steering checked could be a idler arm or rack and pinion. Hope this helps. Also I've noticed a problem with people on here voting down answers that say their answer is wrong. I'm sorry this happens but I know what I'm talking about and have done around 500 alignments and know what alignments cause the car to do. Good luck hope this helps.

I used a can of fix a flat on my rear left tire, and now my car shakes between 55-75 MPH? (see details)?

Asked this question earlier... but I wanted to ask again with these details.

This tire has always lost air, slowly, for as long as I can remember. I have to put air in it every month or so in order to keep it full. I was tired of having to put air in it ever month or two, so I let it get down again... and when it needed air, this time I put fix a flat in it and drove on it like the can instructs. My car didn't shake until now, now that I have used the can of fix a flat. I put the entire can into the tire, then drove the car (says to drive at least 2-4 miles, but I drove to work, about 15 miles). As soon as I got up to about 55-75 MPH, the car is shaking... I'm guessing because of the junk inside the tire. Will this eventually go away?

Also, just as the can instructs... after getting to work (15 mile drive), I put additional air into the tire in order to bring it up to full tire pressure (35PSI).

Like I said, the tire has always slowly gone flat... so I used a can of this stuff on it, and now it shakes for the first time.

Why did my car shake and the check engine light flash while stopped at a light?

What you experienced was almost certainly a misfire event and the cause may be recorded as a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) in the engine controller’s memory. Most failures that are significant enough to cause MIL illumination will record a trouble code and its environmental/ data information from the moment, even if the MIL is no longer lit. Onboard Diagnostics work constantly to keep the MIL off, looking for a reason to turn the CE light out if the condition hasn’t been seen again recently, eventually even erasing trouble codes if all’s good. I can only speculate on the nature of your event, but a thorough scan to retrieve codes and freeze frame data of the moment will often shed some light on the situation.Misfires come in many flavors, ranging from slight loss of performance in a single cylinder, to one or more holes being completely dead. Your description of shake at an idle implies a power imbalance, which usually involves complete loss of performance, but just one hole.Barring an at-home scanner being available, rolling the ignition key from LOCK to RUN three times, then leaving it in the RUN position at the end will initiate the customer code-read feature, spilling any matured codes stored in the PCM through the instrument cluster’s odometer window. All codes will be four digits in length, beginning with the letter P, such as P0123. DTC information can be found at OBD2-OBDII Engine Light Trouble Codes Definitions, Description and Repair Information online.One-trip failures - those that have not quite matured - will not be displayed in this feature, but will show up on a high-end scanner if present.If only a single cylinder misfire code is retrieved, pull the coil and spark plug to inspect for signs of flashover - black marks on the upper spark plug insulator and inner coil boot that will not scratch off with a fingernail. Flashover is pretty common on coil-on-plug ignition systems and the cure is to replace both the boot and spark plug together. Worn plugs tend to incite this sort of situation as spark will always seek the path of least resistance.If your DTC list includes an injector control circuit code that matches the cylinder of misfire, chances are good that the injector is at fault. The injector may test as completely normal when cooler, but will go to an open circuit once heated, either naturally or with a heat gun.

Car Shakes after Head Gasket Repair?

Just had a head gasket replaced on a 2004 Impala with a 3.8 engine, car now shakes when in reverse and while stopping at read lights (idling) The person that repaired the car stated that a cylinder seems to be misfiring but that I should just drive it for about 100 miles and that driving it would stop that misfiring...

I am not personally familiar with driving a car into better health...

any thoughts? Feedback regarding this issue

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