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My Car Starts Too Shake Pretty Rough For About A Minute Then Settles Down What Can It Be

Why does my car idle at a really low RPM while stopped, and start shaking?

You may have a misfire, a vacuum leak, or a clogged/faulty idle air control valve. It could be a couple other things, too, but those are the most common and first things you should explore. This is because:If you have a misfire, one of your cylinders is not working and while that may be less noticeable at higher speeds when the engine is spinning really fast and the throttle is wide open, at lower speeds the difference is more apparent.If there is no misfire (and no codes / check engine light), the problem is most likely air related. This could mean a vacuum leak from a hose or the intake manifold itself. Or, commonly, it could be that your Idle Air Control Valve is clogged or not working well. The engine monitors via sensors how much air is coming in vs engine speed and uses that to control fuel injection and ignition timing.If it's a vacuum leak, the engine is getting more air than it thinks it is and that is causing a 'lean' fuel/air ratio.If the IAC valve (and its passages around the throttle plate) are clogged up, the engine thinks it's getting more air than it really is at idle with the throttle plate closed (foot off the gas), resulting in a 'rich' fuel/air ratio.All of these scenarios will probably cause some sort of engine code and checking them should be your first step. Note that an oxygen sensor code will be indicitave of one of the above 'air' situations because it detects how rich or lean the ratio is.

Will four loko/joose cans explode if shaken up a little?

I'm trying to pack a couple four lokos and a couple jooses in my suitcase to take on vacation. will they explode if they get shaken up in my suitcase? also, are they like cokes where if you let it settle down a little, it wont spew when you open it, even if it was shaken earlier?

i might put the cans in plastic baggies in my suitcase just in case they explode, but i'm just wondering what the odds are of them exploding..

What would cause engine idle to lower upon starting my engine?

I have a 1999 Honda Accord 2.3VTEC engine with barely over 190,000 Miles. When starting cold(first time a day, or after several hours being parked), I don't have this problem, rather the idle starts higher than normal. I understand that is normal behavior because the engine is cold, and the computer does it to make the oil etc... heat up faster. But, when it is NOT a cold start, the engine starts up good, but right away idles as low as 0.25 RPM. The associated vibration with low RPM also occurs, but within a couple of seconds, it idles back up to normal idle speed(about 0.85RPM). I can avoid this happening by giving it a little gas, as it only happens within the first couple of seconds, and then doesn't happen any more.

I also had intermittent check engine lights, but they lasted a few days at a time. A mechanic pulled the code and said it was due to the catalytic converter being clogged. He also said it was the likely cause of the above mentioned problem. After that work, the check engine light still comes on sometimes like before, but much less often, so instead of like 3 days on, 3 days off, it is more like once a month, lasting a couple of days at a time. The mechanic says that the light, and the lowered idle are being caused by a vacuum tube, something to do with the exaust.

At this point, I don't believe him. I think He simply can't find the problem and would rather feed me a lie than tell me the truth. I'm no mechanic, but I've never heard of a vacuum tube being associated with the exsaust. Also, once the catalytic converter was replaced, that should have in theory fixed the problem.

Just as FYI, I have been keeping my oil/maintenance regularly as need, so it isn't a maintenance issue(at least that I know of). Thanks in advance for any help offered.

I have a rough idle problem?

I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse, 2.4L, 4 cyl., GS, Manual Transmission.

I started having an idle problem a few weeks ago. Would stall for a while on pretty cold mornings, sometimes would fluctuate between 800 and 1400 rpms. When this started I would disconnect battery, and it would fix it temporarily. Check engine light came on, code said IAC valve is bad.

Finally bought new IAC valve, but the idle is even worse now. Tried cleaning old IAC before putting in new one, that didn't fix it. With the new IAC, it stalls sometimes, when A/C is on it fluctuates between 300 and 900 rpms and almost stalls. When sitting still in neutral, when I turn steering wheel the engine revs. When sitting at stop light in neutral, idle fluctuates between 400 and 700 rpms for a while, then eventually settles at 600.

What is the problem? CPU maybe? Idk what else to do, the IAC was $226, which was cheap compared to most places. Really sucks having to keep eye on rpms when I hit the clutch...

Dogs biting their privates?

Our two 5-month-old male puppies play really really rough with each other. One is a Pit Bull mix, the other is a Hound mix (Beagle or Foxhound).

I have already asked a question about this matter, and was assured that they are not fighting, but are just playing.

They bite each other, and at times, HARD. Sometimes they will bite down onto an area on one another, usually the neck/throat, and start shaking their head violently like it was a toy or something! It's scary!

One thing that is particularly bothersome is when they bite each other's private parts. The Pit Bull mix has a little mark from where a bite scrape used to be, but it has healed over.
The Hound mix now has a fresh bite scrape on near his private area as well.

WHY are they targeting each other's privates!?
Why do they tear at each other's throats sometimes?

The weird thing is, when they aren't rough-housing, they're cuddling together, napping.

Why does my car jerk when I accelerate? The RPM quickly goes up and down a few times and then stops. It only happens at the beginning of the ride and then it's fine.

As Bill has said, your car’s automatic transmission is shifting through the gears. It's not that hard to soften the “jerk.” Just lift your accelerator foot a bit when it's about to shift.You can both hear, and with the tach, see this moment. Listen to your engine!In my experience, automatic transmissions are only “not smooth” under hard acceleration. Taking things a bit easier will improve your passengers’ comfort remarkably. And you'll spend less on gasoline.

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