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My Oil Furnace Is Too Hot. How Do I Reduce The Flame

Fuel oil furnaces?

First thing please ignore those two answers and kirk is not cert heating tech. If you keep hitting the reset you will put to much oil in the chamber and could have an explosion. What you are doing wrong is playing with it. You don't have a wet kit to set up your burner. Its going to cost you more money to fix if you don't call a NORA CERT. HEATING TECH NOT KIRK. Your cad eye could be bad your pump pressure might not be set right you could have to much vacuum in the line. Is it a Hot air furnace or a forced hot water boiler.

Furnace not blowing hot air?

you said that you have a " Gas " furnace then you do have a pilot and perhaps the pilot is out and you need to re lite it , sometimes a draft could have caused the pilot off . if you are not sure call the gas company to come over. It all depends on the Brand that you have to determine where the pilot is located here are a couple examples

How do i reduce flame in my oil fired boiler?

stanley cookers have a baffle that you swing across with a lever to give you cooking or hotwater make sure the baffle is in the position you want it , if the boiler has been serviced and set up properly dont touch the burner setting or youll end up with a very badly burning cooker , dangerous and not very efficient resulting in burner lockout

How hot should furnace ducts be?

The only part of a forced air heating system which should be too hot to touch other than the flame itself, is the vent stack, which exhausts hot combusted gases out of the system. The part of the furnace above the unit which is better known as the plenum should be warm to the touch slightly warmer the closer you get to the unit cooler the further away from the unit never, never too hot to touch. Could have possible heat exchanger damage which is allowing too hot of a temp. to rise. You could also have ducting come loose below your bedroom floor,buy some aluminium tape and tape all joints.

Is my furnace too small?

The ideal sizing of a furnace is that it runs 100% of the time on the coldest day of the year to maintain a comfortable temp.

If you set the temp back to 60 degrees overnight, it might take an hour to come back to 70, and that's OK so long as the furnace maintains that 70. If you are uncomfortable in the mornings, you can either set the temp to a higher point overnight, or get a timer to start the furnace earlier. either will cost you more in heating bills.


Well the first thing you need to do is to tell your sister to put the torch away before she makes matters worse. Oil is flammable and she is heating up lines that are carrying oil in them and that is not smart, If you want to use something to apply heat too the pipes try a hair dryer. The hair dryer will not turn the pipes cherry red as will a blow torch. I do not know how much this would help considering the pipes are underground and the area of the pipe that is frozen could be underground and applying heat to the pipes in the house will not help that. It sounds like when they installed the tank and the lines it was not buried deep enough (below the frost line) to prevent this type of occurence. I have a couple of suggestions for you 1) If you intend to continue to use a oil furnace to heat this home have the tank and lines redone and buried deeper to prevent this in the future or 2) I noticed you said your was using the ovens to heat the home which means you are burning propane or natural gas in the home and that being the case I would considering replacing the furnace with a gas unit and eliminate the oil furnace, tank and lines and be rid of your nightmare forever. Here in Illinois the old oil systems used to have the tanks in the basements of the homes which was not a good idea because they sometimes leaked and there was always a heavy odor of oil in the homes. These systems are like dinosaurs here now but are still used alot on the west coast. Are you located on the west coast by chance? Best of Luck and I hope these thoughts have helped in some way.

How do I bleed a Riello Bf3 Oil Burner?

My oil furnace ran out of oil last night and we got a jerry can of it this morning and poured it into the tank. We followed the instructions in the manual for pushing the reset button but it only turned on for afew seconds and then back off. I pushed it again and it did the same thing. Now reading on the internet it says never push it more than twice. I read that I need to bleed the lines, however, I don't see anything for my model on the internet. Does anyone have a Riello Bf3 burner that can help me out? I don't see a bleed screw anywhere. Do I need to remove the burner cover even though it says never operate without cover in place? Also, the reset light isn't lit up like the last 2 times I pushed it, so do I need to do something else first?


Oil furnace only turns on when I press reset button?

Oil furnaces are definately more hastle than gas or propane, because they are based on old school technology and rely mostly on mechanical adjustments, and are a lot more volatile.

The safety circuit on an oil furnace is designed to try lighting 3 times and then gives up and locks out after the 3rd try.

It could be that your oil nozzle is gummed up and need to be replaced. If you have a lazy flame your fire eye will not see it.
It could be your electrodes need a good cleaning or replacement.
The insulators of your electrodes could be cracked.
Your fire eye lense could be in need of cleaning, or need to be adjusted to better see the flame(on some units).The fire eye module or the primary control itself may be going bad.

The transformer contacts and buss bars may not be making good contact.
Could be a lack of pressure from your pump.
Could be the burner blower fan is full of crud and not pushing enough air into the firebox.
Air in the line, Dirty filter, crud in your tank, poor fuel quality, Somebody stepping on your supply line and kinking or partially flattening it.all could be factors.

There are just too many variables with oil furnaces to troubleshoot over the internet. And it can be dangerous if not handled properly.
Check the simple things first, make sure supply line is sound, are the fittings tight and not sucking air,replace filter,bleed lines .

If it actually relights with one reset you 're fine but if it doesn't PLEASE,please don't keep hitting the reset button, it if trips there is a problem that needs addressed.
I've had oil furnaces blow apart on me because the homeowner filled the firepot with too much oil by reseting it waaaay too many times before it lit.
Based on what you've written it doesn't sound like you have an ignition problem, but more of an issue with fuel supply, flame monitoring, or possibly componet failure.
Call the manufacturer and get the name of a recommended /reputable HVAC company in your area.

A lot of HVAC company's don't like to work on oil furnaces anymore because they are such a hastle. I'm being optomistic here but The service guy you had may just be inexperienced with oil burners.
But then could just be getting jerked around.

Good Luck

Please Help..How to rid that sulphur smell?

Have you always had the sulfer smell? If so, it may not be the water heater but the water itself. I grew up on a farm where many people around the area had wells. Our well produced great tasting water but our neighbors well water smelled like sulfer/rotten eggs and tasted horrible. Their well driller drilled down too far and went below the coal vein that the good tasting water came out of. He only went about 8 feet too deep and that made all of the difference. Several years ago they had the well drilled deeper into a limeston vein and had the old section where they used to get water from blocked off. Their water tastes and smells fine now. There may be a way to filter that out, but I haven't heard of that kind of filter. Have your water tested by a water softener company or water company, many water softener companies will test it for free or a very nominal fee because they want your business. Kinetico or Culligan might do it for you.

Furnace won't blow warm air...but cold air is fine. HELP!!!?

When heating with oil there is no pilot light. The oil goes from the tank to the burner and the pump pressurizes the oil to 100 psi (usally). The oil then comes from the pump through the nozzle and is atomized. The transformer creates a spark that ignites the oil spray.

A primary control takes input from the thermostat and tell the motor and transformer to run. If the primary doesn't see a fire in X amount of seconds (X could range from 15 to 90, depending on the age of the unit), it will shut everything off.

What you are hearing the motor running. DO NOT CONTINUE TO PRESS THE RESET BUTTON. Every time you press it, 15-90 seconds of oil will spray into the chamber (if you have oil, the lines are not clogged, the pump is good, yada yada yada).

When the service tech comes out to fix it, the unit will smoke very heavily for some time, depending on how much extra oil you let into the chamber. Just think - when the tech fixes the fire, it will need to burner ~2 minutes of oil all at once - it will not have enough air to burner that much oil, and therefore it will be a bad, smoky fire for a short while.

My answer - call someone to fix it before you fill the chamber with oil and have to spend MUCH MUCH more than it would cost if you just have someone come out. More than likely a part is bad (pump, transformer, oil line, nozzle).