PLEASE PLEASE HELP if i buy this micro phone and stand.....?
I've been an audio engineer for a while now, and like answering these kind of questions, as long as it'll help you! Since your buying an amp and this package comes with XLR-XLR cable, you're probably going to need an amp with XLR input jacks. There's not alot floating around for an affordable budget tho. http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Alesis-Sumo-100-Keyboard-Amplifier-with-Digital-Effects?sku=705526 I'm not recommending that amp, but it gives you an idea of the XLR connectivity. What I'd suggest is getting a XLR - TS cable http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Horizon-HZ-Series-Cable-Female-XLR-to-Male-14?sku=336121 like that one and plugging your microphone into a standard input on an amplifier. However, your microphone's output will be slightly quieter than if you use an XLR. And if you are in an area with alot of radio signals, the switch from balanced (XLR) to unbalanced (TS) will probably pick up alot of inteference. It's cheap though, and definately worth a shot.
My XLR cable won't stay in my microphone all the way, What is wrong?
That is actually a fairly common problem with some mics and XLR cables (especially the cheap cables that come with mics). You should hear a small click when you insert the XLR cable into the mic as the connector locks - if you don't hear a click, the cable is not locked in but the mic will still work anyway as long as the connector is inserted enough. You might consider a different brand cable or maybe a different mic if you use this on stage. If you have a Guitar Center nearby, go there and get a mic and or cable that you can make sure does lock in.
What XLR Cable do you recommend for my microphone?
Do not buy expensive cables! They are how music stores make money. Huge profit margins on supposed premium cables. But don't buy the cheapest either. The real difference between cables is their connectors. Get cables with Neutrik ends. Avoid Switchcraft. All my Neutrik cables are solid and have never caused a problem. All of my Switchcraft cables have had to be resoldered. Whenever I have made a custom cable I have always used NeutrikDisclaimer: I have no affiliation with Neutrik. I just love their connectors.
When buying a cable to connect my phantom power 48V to my computer, would it be better get an XLR female to 3.5mm audio jack, or an XLR female to USB type-A? Is there any difference?
If your computer has a microphone input in the form of a 3.5mm mini jack, just don’t use it. It is better to digitize that phantom powered microphone, then send the digitized signal to your computer via USB. Attempting to plug your analog phentom powered mic into your USB jack with some sort of cable just won’t work.I use a MicPort Pro to digitize my microphones. It has phantom power at the touch of a switch, it has a headphone jack, and output pots for signal level and headphone level. It allows for 24 bit, 96kHz sampling rate and records .wav files. The cost is $200. However they are hard to find. If a 16 bit sampling rate will work for you, I recommend something like this from Shure:The Shure X2u is only 16 bit, but that should be good for most home applications. It costs under $100. I’m sure there are other solutions, costing less and costing more.
Is it worth buying a proper microphone for singing? Or is phone recorder sufficiently accurate
Yes on all counts: professional recordings are done with microphones such as the AKG C12, Neumann U47 or U87… AND they run these mics through the best mic pre-amps you can find.This doesn’t mean you need to invest the thousands of dollars these mics cost (or the mid-range ones, such as the AKG C414). It’s just to show you that if you are expecting that level of quality, there is a reason why you cannot achieve it with your phone.You are also frustrated because of another very important factor: the room acoustics. Vocals in the professional world are recorded in treated acoustics, with just the right balance of vocal signal to room signal. Although some living rooms can sound quite good, and in some cases, better than some “professional” recording studios, chances are it’s the other way around.Start with the weakest link: the microphone. Definitely invest in something proper, such as an entry-level RØDE NT-1a. Then you need an interface with a built-in microphone pre-amplifier. These two will get you started:Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 - Second GenerationPreSonus AudioBox USBThen, work on your room acoustics. The living room (provided it’s nice and quiet) is usually a good place, as it’ll have book shelves, couch, plants, … several items to diffuse those nasty flutter echoes. Even though it’ll look ugly, consider grabbing two of your biggest mattresses, and lay them out on their edge, to form a triangle. Put the mic inside the triangle, towards the tip, facing to the open side. As you sing into the microphone, it will collect mostly vocals, and minimal reverberation from the room. For operatic performance, you mention you’re a soprano, which makes me think you might be looking for that type of a more “distant” sound. In that case, forget about the mattresses, or perhaps, use them propped up against windows to block outside noise (traffic, lawnmower)… as the operatic voice does need reverberation as a support.Hope that helps! (thanks for the A2A)
Shure SM58 Microphone.....Connection?
Okay, So I'll buy the microphone right? But what exactly do I plug it into to actually make it work, Do I use a guitar amp Or do I need something else :L Im new to singing and have no clue on the microphone side of it :/ so can someone explain how does it power up and what do you plug it into? I heard it has 3 prons or something?
What HD video camera can use a wireless microphone and what type of microphone?
Any camcorder that records high definition and has some sort of audio input... Sony HDR-CX500 series Canon HF or HF S series Canon HV series Canon GL series Sony HDR-FX Series Sony HVR series JVC GY-HM series Panasonic AG series Many others. Just having the jack on the camcorder is only part of the requirement. You REALLY want the camcorder to have manual audio control, too. When you *think* you have decided on a camcorder, DO NOT buy it. Go to the manufacturer's web site and download the manual - and read it. Be sure it has the features you want/need. When you have confirmed that, THEN buy the camcorder. As for wireless audio gear... be sure it uses UHF. Sennheiser, Shure and Audio Technica are the good ones. I cannot recommend the lesser ones from Nady, Samson and others. DO NOT buy any that use FM, 900 MHz, 2.4 GHz or 5.8 GHz. FM is obvious - the others are in "shared" bands - shared with wifi, home cordless phones, garage door openers and other stuff and the audio interference can ruin your video project. VHF is sort of OK - but UHF is best. I use Shure and Sennheiser wireless handheld and lavaliere mics. The wireless lav mic itself is connected with a wire to the body pack transmitter. The hand-held mics have the transmitter built-in to or added on to the handheld mic. They transmit the wireless audio signal to a base station. My Shure base stations are large - made for rack-mount use and powered with an AC adapter plugged into the wall. The base station uses an XLR cable to plug into an XLR adapter (BeachTek or juicedLink - I have both) and the XLR adapter plugs into the camcorder's 1/8" (3.5mm) stereo mic jack. My Sennheiser wireless lavs' base stations are battery powered and mount to the camcorder. I can either plug the portable base station directly into the camcorders' 1/8" (3.5mm) stereo mic jack or use an XLR cable and the XLR adapter to plug into the camcorder. I prefer using the XLR adapter when I use a single mono mic because of the "mono/stereo" switch. When I use a single mono mic in the stero camcorder jack, only one side of the audio track in the camcorder records. When I use the XLR adapter and put the switch in "mono", both left and right audio tracks record the same audio.