Stackable washer dryer, power?
It appears from your description that switching the outlet as you did merely changed the recepticle (the prongs are different for different voltages to avoid using the wrong voltage) and the voltage to the outlet is still 110v. (BTW, If so, it would be proper to use a 110 outlet to avoid confusion...or worse.) You should check the specification plate/sticker on the washer (or its owners manual) to determine its operating voltage. Most likely, it is the standard of 110v and you should be fine. If you had plugged that washer into a 220v line, you would probably have fried its electrical system! Dryers use a lot of power -- it takes much energy to evaporate all the water, which is why they are generally 220v. Check the specification plate/sticker on the dryer (or the owners manual) because there is a slight chance that is dual-voltage and can be rewired to use 120v -- in which case, you are very lucky! Otherwise, you can get a 120v dryer, but they are generally smaller capacity; it would generally take twice as long to dry the same amount of clothing as in a 220v dryer. You should also determine whether the breaker box gets 220v; if so, it would be possible to run a separate 220v line (with its own 220v 30a breaker) for the just dryer. I was unsure from your question if these are separate units; at one point, they are described as "stackable" but another place, the washer was referred to as a "portion" ...if they are a combination unit, you obviously can't practically replace just the dryer. Good luck!
How do i know if i need 110 or 220 power source for washing machine?
if it's a combo unit then those can run off of 240v with the washer tapping off 1 leg and a nuetral. Newer dryers are now wire 4 wire hook up, old ones are 3 wire, but current NEC code mandates 4 wire hook up. So thats 2 hots ( A and B legs on a single phase power which is 120/240 ) 1 Nuetral and 1 Ground. For 30 amps all wires are #10 ( stranded or solid or you can get 10-3 nmc and run it back to the panel and get a 2 pole 30 amp breaker ). The reason for the 4 wire is in the old days their was 2 hots and 1 nuetral, but the nuetral was bonded at the chassis, not a good thing should you get a current leak, the chassis then become energized with any load inbalance, then if if it's on concrete an your barefoot, ZAP. Now they seperate the nuetral from the ground until is bonded back at the service panel. old receptacles were either a NEMA 6-30-R or 10-30-R new ones are NEMA 14-30-R so the dryer should have a NEMA 14-30-P ( cord ) on it. R = receptacle ( what would be in the wall ) P= plug ( coming from the dryer )
Do they make a 110V electric clothes dryer?
Yes, they certainly do exist. As you're probably aware, even in the USA, where the customary residential electric supply is 110 volt 60 herz, most electric clothes dryers use 220 volt to allow production of adequate heat and adequate air blower power with less power conversion loss. Nevertheless, many appliance manufacturers produce 110 volt dryers for consumers whose homes cannot be wired for a 220 volt dryer. You may need to order your dryer specially, paying a premium for the configuration.
How efficient is a 110 volt clothes dryer?
I suspect that you are referring to a 110 volt electric dryer (as opposed to a gas dryer which generally IS 110 volts).Electric dryers use a heating element to dry the clothes. These elements are just like a think piece of wire and get really hot so that when the dryer blows air across the wire, the result is warm air.With these types of dryers, the higher the voltage, the lower the current draw. Ohm's law states P=V*I or Power=Volts x Current. Based on that rule, you can attain the same amount of power at 1/2 the current if you double the voltage. For example, to achieve 110 watts of power at 110 volts, the current draw would be 1 amp. 110 watts = 110 volts * 1 ampAt 220 volts, the current goes down to 1/2 amp and still achieves the same 110 watts of power since110 watts =220 volts * .5 amps
Is it safe to plug a microwave and fridge into an extension cord?
Perfectly safe so long as you use an extension lead that conforms to your electrical code, the outlet powering the extension is suitably rated and that your maximum load does not exceed the maximum working load of either the outlet or the lead.Both a microwave and a fridge are intermittent loads. You need to make sure that the maximum load under worst case conditions is not exceeded. A fridge usually has a motorised compressor which has an inrush current of perhaps twice it’s mean rating. A microwave running on full power will use a fairly steady power but if it is using a lower setting (like defrost) will not modulate it’s power requirement, but will turn it’s magnetron on and off. It modulates average power by the mark-space ratio of the on-off time.For example, my microwave has a maximum power output of 800W. Allowing for losses and the interior light, stirring fan and control electronics, it uses 1000W of power.When running in defrost mode (average power 200W), it pulses the magnetron on for a few seconds, then off for several seconds. Although the ‘average’ power is 200W, it provides this power in short 800W bursts, thus the supply needs to be rated at 1kW no matter what is happening. Likewise my refrigerator has an average power consumption (fridge consumptions are usually averaged over 24h periods) of 175W, but when the compressor runs up, it initially draws around 600W. Because of the intermittent nature of the fridge’s operation, the average over the 24 hour period may only be 175W but it is using that power in 600W bursts.So, worst case scenario, my microwave oven is using 1kW and my fridge compressor is firing up and drawing 600W. Total instantaneous load 1600W.My electrical outlet (UK) is rated at 13A continuous at 240v, or 3120W. Perfectly safe to run both appliances from a two way extension lead rated at 3120W and fitted with a 13A fuse.
Is it possible to connect a 120/240v dryer to a 120v outlet?
There are 2 ways to go about, use a transformer to step up or down or an ac/dc adapter.
What is a neutral wire?
The (US) National Electrical Code prefers the term grounded conductor. Surprisingly for a regulation, that’s actually more descriptive of what a neutral really is. Two current-carrying conductors are required to complete a power circuit, and if one happens to be grounded then it is known as the neutral.The NEC requires that neutrals always be white or grey. Other countries use different conventions; blue is increasingly common, and black is still used in some places. (This is unfortunate, because black is the most common hot conductor color in North America.)Note that the NEC also uses the term grounding conductor. This is a completely separate wire that, unlike the neutral, never carries current under normal conditions. Its sole purpose is to ground the exposed conductive parts of a device so that an internal fault cannot put dangerous voltages on them without causing a large fault current that should quickly trip either an overcurrent device (fuse or circuit breaker) or ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI, known as a residual current device in some other countries.)The groundING conductor is always bare, green or green with a yellow stripe.Note that while neutrals are intended to carry current, in normal operation there is little or no current through the neutral’s grounding point; the current remains in the neutral wire.
Can I run 2 electric dryers on the same circuit?
Yes you can, as long as you didn't run both of them at the same time. If you do, your laundry will never get done, as the breaker will trip constantly. They each need their own 30 amp 240V circuit.