Polyurethane on peel n stick vinyl?
It will crack and flake off.
How do you remove dried up polyurethane from clay tile without damaging the tile?
I have found that wax remover (the kind of remover for cosmetic wax) found at a beauty supply works great for removing paints and stuff from tile without damaging it. Clay tile is porous though so a petroleum product may not be the best. I did use it on my entry way, and it is sealed and it was fine. I think the wax remover may be the same substance as "Goof Off" or "Goo Gone"
Would peel-n-stick tile stick to wood floors?
YES, go for it! I did exactly what you are talking about to two floors in the 100 year old house I used to have in Michigan. It had old pine floors that were battered and patched just like you describe. No sanding in the world would have made them look nice. What I did and recommend to you is to put down either the 1/4" lauan plywood or what I used, which is smaller sheets of special underlayment that I bought at Lowes. These sheets are about 4' x 6 feet and easier to handle and haul than 8 foot sheets. They have marks on them showing where to set the nails. Use ring-type nails so they won't back out with vibration and drive the nails flush or slightly below the level of the wood. Don't buy the cheapest peel and stick tiles because they will start to peel and will look cheap. Both Lowes and Home Depot carry a slightly better commercial grade. I used TrafficMaster brand (they might still have a website) in one style that looked like slate tiles for my breakfast room and another that looked like wooden parquet for a bedroom. They were a breeze to install. Follow the directions and start from the center of the room. Make sure you push each tile very tightly against the one beside it. The glue is VERY sticky. Everyone who saw my floors thought they were real stone or wood. They looked better than laminate, I thought, because they had more texture and proved to be very durable. When I sold the house 3 years later (for a nice profit) everyone who came to the open houses loved those floors. Actually, if your wood floor is very level and doesn't have major dips and patches, you might even be able to use the TrafficMaster commercial grade tiles directly over the wood but I think you would be happier using underlayment. If you don't use underlayment, eventually traffic on the floor will cause the dips and lines between the wood slats to show up in the surface of the tile. If it's a small room with little traffic and you use an area rug over it, it might be OK without underlaying. I think you'll be pleased with the results. Good luck!
Does PU leather peel like vinyl?
Hi Glad to answer you, I‘m doing with synthetic leather for years.I think cant simply compare the peel strength, PU and Vinyl(PVC) are different, PU leather is more complicated in the manufacturing process than PVC leather. The pattern of the PVC leather is formed by hot pressing of a steel pattern roll , and the pattern of the PU leather is pressed on the surface of the semi-finished leather with a pattern paper, and the paper leather is separated after waiting for cooling, and the surface is made. Generally, the pattern paper required for PU leather can only be scrapped 4-5 times; the use period of the pattern roller is long, so the cost of PU leather is higher than that of PVC leather.Many factors affect the peel strength, like the base fabric and thickness. If you want to compare the two materials in practice, you need to use special instruments like this below.Hope this can help you.Roy-BDL LEATHER
Can I put down self stick tile on a Kilz sealed wood floor?
The self stick tile will work on the floor if the kilz has penetrated the wood. The problem with some floors is that the wood has oils, stains or sap in it that prevents coatings from penetrating it. This is a problem because your kilz coating may prevent the adhesive form sticking to the floor. Do an adhesion test....get a piece of duct tape and stick it to the floor, step on it everywhere. Now rip it off and see if the kilz comes up with it. If it does then that's what is going to happen to your self stick tile. That is why floor people usually nail a sheet of underlayment to the floors first, then lay the tile. That's a lot of work though. The other thing that happens is if there are any loose boards, areas that move even 1/16 inch below your vinyl tiles, they will crack.
Should I refinish wood floor or lay down tile?
I just ripped up the carpet in my kids' playroom and underneath is hardwood flooring. Its got a lot of paint splatter and maybe a few water stains or something. I was going to put down peel n stick vinyl tiles but now I'm wondering if it would be possible to refinish the floor instead? Would it be financially worth it? I just wanted a smooth floor for my kids' toys to roll on and no carpets for stains. If it would cost a lot to refinish it I wouldn't bother, or if it would be a lot of work because I'm doing this on my own. Should I try to refinish it or just put down the vinyl tiles? If you say refinish please tell me what I'd need to do that. Thanks!
If I put down peel and stick tile, can it be sealed with a clear coat or urethane? I want to put it in area?
Yes you can, but I suggest that you use a primer on the floor before you stick the tile or it won't stay that way. It eventually unstick causing a big mess. Use the primer before laying them down. It is sold at the hardware store and do not let anyone talk you out of it because I did it professionally and I never had a customer complain becasue the tile didn't stick. When you use primer and lay it down...buddy....it's stuck and you can't pulll it back up without breaking the tile. The primer is a milky white substance and smells kind of funny, but it drys white and you should do the entire floor at one time and then let it dry and stick your tile, but do not walk on the primer.
Are vinyl and bonded leather the same?
They are both synthetics used for artificial leather.Bonded leather is a synthetic with leather fibers glued to the back side. The two purposes of the fibers are to 1) allow the makers to advertise “ 10% genuine leather” without technically lying, and 2) if you look at the backside or edges of the leather to see if it is genuine , you will be fooled. The surface you sit on is 100% synthetic , and will feelthe same against your skin as any other plastic surface.Great effort is expended to make bonded leather look and feel like leather, and sometimes it is nearly indistinguishable from the real thing, so it’s not necessarily a bad choice, just in terms of appearance. Vinyl is cheaper looking and rarely convincing. There is also “PU leather” , which is polyurethane leather , which is….drum roll please….100% fake.The use of the word “leather”to describe bonded leather and PU leather is deliberately misleading, and imho should be considered false advertising. I’ve seen salespeople in furniture stores go to great lengths to avoid admitting that bonded leather is not genuine leather, even when asked that directly. And if you search for leather online you will get many bonded leather and PU leather items, where you have to search the fine print at the bottom of the page to find out what it really is.
How do you repair faux leather?
You can repair faux leather, but how you repair it depends on what kind of tear it has. In the case of faux leather ripping at the seam, repair would involve creating a new seam or sticking to reinforce a ripped seam.For holes in the actual fabric, you could create an "invisible patch" by placing a small piece of matching faux leather beneath the hole and top stitching it in place. It is not quite "invisible" but from a distance your eye would be fooled by the color match. Another idea would be to try to cover or conceal it with a patch or embellishment, like a fabric flower or embroidered patch. If doing this, I might consider patching the hole using the "invisible patch" method and then adhering the embellishment over the patch.Finally, I do remember a product that could be used to fix holes in both genuine and faux leather, but I'm not sure it is still on the market. The product involved mixing a thick plastic substance to the desired color, smearing it on and then pressing it with an iron. I don't recall the name of the product, but you could inquire at a fabric shop or online to see if it is still available.