Why does my air conditioner turns off after about 15 minutes?
This issue is an issue that can be resolved by a authorized repair technician only.Here is a possible list of issuesThe compressor is leaking oil. Thus it is overheating and shutting down within 15 minutes, The oil in the compressor cools the compressorThere is grime or dirt build up in the outside condenser unit, This is preventing the heat teansfer from happening from inner unit to outer unit, causing tyhe compressor to overheat and shutdownThere may be many other points of failure, but normally (at least in India) are not solvable by self help, because the ACs are not designed for customer repair.So call the Authorized service center and get your AC unit looked at
Why does my electric motor shut off after running for about 20 seconds?
20 Seconds is the give away here, telling me you have a single phase motor.Chances are your RUN winding is out of order. 20 seconds is about the time a START winding will be able to run before an overload trip or circuit breaker trip. If the motor runs slower than usual in those 20 seconds, it is definitely running only on the start windings. Some motors have 2 capacitors: 1 for start and 1 for run. Very possible the RUN capacitor is burned out or shorted. If only 1 capacitor, that will be the start winding, and will be OK, so its the RUN winding that is faulty. You do not say “trip” which could also tell us the motor could possibly be a centrifugal switch start motor, which will not have any capacitors, and here, one of the RUN winding wires could be separated from the switch, cutting power to the run winding when the start-up speed is achieved.
My pool pump runs for 20 seconds then shuts off, what is wrong?
sounds like you have 2 bad motors that are overheating some motors have thermal cut off switches....unless you have an extremely long run of wire to pump like way over 100 feet.
Do diesel engines need to idle, or should they be shut off after a couple of minutes?
There are two main contributors to the answer. First is inefficient combustion chamber temperatures can create a situation where the fuel is not getting an efficient total burn. This can be referred to as "wet stacking." This can cause a "washing" of the cylinder sleeves of their lubricating oil, which can in-turn cause wear. Also, it can cause dilution of the motor oil. However, this actually takes longer than you would probably idle your vehicle for and newer vehicles actually increase their idle after a while to compensate. (Also to blow out the new catalytic converters required on diesel vehicles.)The second part to this is the turbo. (Almost every new diesel is turbocharged.) Turbos run VERY high temperatures on the exhaust side. These temperatures are high enough to cook (and burn) motor oil. So if you shut off the engine after it has been running in boosted levels for a while, the oil that stops in the bearings of the turbo gets burnt leaving "coke" on the bearings. Eventually this will lead to your turbo locking up. Not fun. However, many modern cars now have done things to combat this, like running a pump for a while after the car has been shut off, or active thermal siphoning (exploiting physics) to draw oil through the turbo after shutdown. These systems would negate the need to idle the vehicle for a while before shutdown.So, it depends. Depending on the vehicle and the amount of usage just prior to shutdown, I would say the range should be somewhere between 2 and zero minutes. You just have to figure out how your particular vehicle is equipped.
Why does my AC stop blowing air then start blowing air again after being off for some time?
If it is blowing air out the vents and then quits blowing after running for a while which is what I understand your question to be it is more than likely one of three things.1 You are low on refrigerant. As a result your coil freezes up and blocks airflow.2 Your filter is dirty or you replaced it with a “better” filter that doesn't allow for adequate airflow. As a result your coil freezes up and blocks airflow.3 Your blower motor is going bad. After running it overheats and has a internal thermal limit that shuts it off until it cools.I doubt it is the blower motor. They normally work or don't. If you can get to your furnace/air handler switch your A/C to off. Turn your fan from auto to on. After an hour or so go check you furnace/air handler. You should find water somewhere around it if it is freezing up. (And now thawing) You can also check your outdoor unit when it is running. If the larger insulated line is freezing up where it goes into the outdoor unit (or anywhere it is not insulated) it is probably one of the first two. These are the most common from the symptoms you describe.
What does it mean when a car's battery light turns on while the car is moving (eventually car decelerates and stops)?
The alternator is failing or has ceased functioning. Whereas the engine's torque is usually giving your car constant electricity using the alternator, when it fails to do so the battery's reserved power is then used. Usually the battery is only used to start the vehicle. It obviously has enough power to spark the plugs, but only for so long, especially if you are also running your radio, A/C, headlights, etc. Once the battery is dead, the car is dead.This happened to me more than once. The alternator has a finite life in every car, so there comes a time when it will die, and it will almost certainly not be at the most opportune moment. Recognize signs of this happening before it is too late. Mine was failing for months before it inevitably gave in and I finally figured out what was wrong. A similar issue is if your serpentine belt snaps, the engine is no longer running your alternator, whether it's in good shape or not. This will cause more issues than the car just dying in five minutes- the water pump will cease functioning to cool your engine down and you will eventually overheat it and perhaps irreparably damage the vehicle.There are possibly other things that can cause this issue but this seems by and large the most likely.
How soon after you turn off your car's engine is the best time to check the oil level?
Too many wrong answers for me to pass on this one. IT DEPENDS ON THE VEHICLE.First, it should be read when the engine has been run. Does not always need to be hot, but needs to have circulated in most cars to make sure the filter has not drained back into the sump. Better if it is hot.The owner's manual will tell you how soon, and this is important. In many cases it can be read in three to five minutes. But often is is more. Here is a quote from my Grand Cherokee manual:The best time to check the engine oil level is about five minutes after a fully warmed up engine is shut off.Checking the oil while the vehicle is on level ground will improve the accuracy of the oil level readings. Always maintain the oil level within the SAFE zone on the dipstick. Adding one quart of oil when the reading is at the bottom of the SAFE zone will result in a reading at the top of the safe zone on these engines.Here is an excerpt from the Nissan Frontier manualI list several additional cases:The Turbo Diesel Toyota 4Runner I used to have had the filter at an angle on the side of the engine. The design of the filter head allows part of the oil to drain back, so every morning there are a couple of seconds to fill it before the oil pressure light goes out.My 1988 BMW: After an oil change, people try to read the dip stick and add 1/2 to 1 quart when the quickly read it after checking for leaks. It needs about 5 to 6 minutes to show full. Several times I've seen this on the bill or checking later.My 1960 Corvair: It takes 15 minutes to drain down. Adding the right amount and then measuring, people will always add one extra to get it up to the line.Last year I was called by the Mitsubishi dealer to resolve an oil consumption problem on the small trucks and busses they were/are selling. Almost all owners were complaining of having to add oil every time then checked, with one to two liters each time they checked. They took it to the dealer and the dealer immediately measured and verified that the oil was low, adding the amount and trying to figure out where it was going. I bought one myself. And here is what the manual says (in Spanish, but it says 30 minutes - I verified by measuring after lifting the cab (1 liter short), and waiting 30 minutes (right on level):As for level. At least reasonably level. Most dip sticks are on the side of the engine, so side to side matters. they are also often at the front, so that matters too.
Reason for Suzuki DF200 outboard engine temperature alarm?
I was flushing out my engine (200 Suzuki DF200 4-stroke) with those earmuff fresh water flushers and after about 2-3 minutes I noticed that there wasn't any water coming out of the pee indicator nozzle. So I shut off the engine and checked the earmuffs- no debris clogging it, not sure why it wasn't working. But anyway, after repositioning it, I restarted the engine and this time saw water coming out the pee indicator, so I thought all was well. But after running for about 1 minute, the engine started revving up and then idling down several times, and then just stalled out. The temperature alarm was lit on the dashboard. I tried restarting the engine and the same thing happened. Did I mess up my engine by running it without water for those 2-3 minutes? What do I need to fix in that event?
Why is my water still running?
the tank gets filled from mains water supply that fills the tank at the top of the house... guess that's pressurised.. (not sure, im not a plumber unfortunatly) i've tried shuttin off the valve that supply's the house with water - but doesn't seem to be having any effect - probably needs replacing thanks for everyones help.. i think i'm jusst goin to have to get a plumber in to look at it..