I want to put performance air ride suspension on my mustang?
Your better choice would be to do a complete suspension overhaul... upgrade the factory panhard bar (adjustable), lowering springs for the center of gravity to help with launching and cornering, strut tower brace to strenghten the front end from flexing, all new sway bars front and rear with poly bushings ( and grease them til its everywhere to keep the squeak out). It would take a weekend to install it all and get the alignment back from the camber adjustments ( yes you'll need a kit for each wheel) plus a couple of days to dial it in for ride quality... but when it's done correctly it will be like a difference of night and day compared to stock.
What is the possible way to rate the performance of car insurance brokers?
Hi,I am working on a similar project as part of my University curriculum. 1. Cost per claim 2. Revenue per policyholders3. Claims Expense by Product Above three KPI can be used to rank broker's performance.Though I am struggling with the data yet. Please let me know what is your progress, we can discuss.
Besides price, are there any differences to a car’s performance and mileage when using different brands of gasoline?
Likely not the day you buy it. There are certainly exceptions, like getting some truly substandard gas or diesel from some real cut-rate outfit that can affect performance in a big way.But here is a very important consideration: “Top Tier” gas. To be allowed to brand their gas as Top Tier, the company is required to make gas which meets a rigid set of quality and performance standards. Many car makers recommend you always use Top Tier brands. I was happy when a year or two ago Costco announced all their gas would be Top Tier, and all the major brands are. It’s all I run in all my gas vehicles, even my lawn mowers and snow blower.You can learn more about what makes it better here: Homepage And just as an FYI, I’m an old-time, old-school gearhead, and have been turning wrenches and messing around with and crazy about cars for over 50 years. I have no relationship with the Top Tier organization whatsoever. I’m just a firm believer in putting only quality fluids and parts in my vehicles. That sometimes costs a fraction more, but in the long run pays off huge dividends in longevity, reliability, and performance.I noticed some of the answers said there is no difference, and you should buy the octane rating your car requires at the cheapest place. Might not make a difference while your burning that tank of gas, but long term there will be negative effects in your engine. One caveat though: if you’re the type that leases your cars or trade every few years for a new one, you probably don’t care about the long term effects of non Top Tier gas. Too bad for whoever buys your car used though!
Would owning a Honda Civic coupe increase my car insurance rates?
I'm 18 & planning to switch to a Honda Civic soon. I'm meaning to get a coupe, but I heard that my insurance rate would go sky-high just because it's a coupe. Is this true? & if so, by how much? Thanks.
I am replacing my car tires peed rating 94V, to a higher rating 94Y will my car ride any different?
Higher speed rating is the result of different construction. That may or may not result in worse ride handling. Why do you need tires rated for more speed than the manufacturer says? If you have a valid reason for higher speed rated tires, why would you worry about ride quality vs. traction?
What is the hourly rate charged to fix a car?
Depends…In my area the going rate for a shop is between 90 and 125. Dealership is 145.Keep in mind hourly rate generally means “book rate.”Book rate is the amount of time it should take a mechanic to do the repair. The more experienced mechanic, the faster they are thereby “beating book.”I’ve been told a “book hour” is also a 40 minute hour.The point of book rate or hourly rate is to give a fair price for a job.If the mechanic is slower than book, the price should not change just because the mechanic took longer. If the mechanic is super duper can do it in their sleep awesome at a given repair they beat the book and earn more while still giving you a fair price. They are rewarded for their experience and expertise.The hourly book rate keeps things fair for the consumer.Problem… Hourly rates often have no bearing on how good the work is. I have had excellent work performed by a shop at 125/hr and then had them pull some really nickel and dime bad customer service crap.I have had horrible work done at a 100/hr shop that cost thousands to repair elsewhere.The shop that consistently does good work for me charges 90/hr. I didn’t appreciate that until we became friends, had a friend argument, and got fired. 16 months and some serious begging later I finally got un banned.Anyway, hourly rate is not necessarily indicative of work quality. The price difference on my last repair from 90/hr to 125/hr would have been $290. That sounds like alot, but on a repair of over $1,000 what matters most is the quality of the repair. The expensive guy would have done just as good a job as the affordable one. The 100/hr guy in my story would have fixed the wrong thing, reversed the wiring on my a/c fan, replaced a part that didn’t need replacing (or bother asking me first) and cost me another thousand bucks to have either affordable or expensive guy repair his repair.So…Be nice to your mechanic, but do not become friends with your mechanic least you lose your mechanic if the friendship goes south.Don’t sweat the hourly rate, sweat the work quality.And if your mechanic does not listen to you, communicate with you, or their repairs don’t seem to hold or fix the problem…FIND A NEW MECHANIC FAST. Do not allow them to keep on fixing a repair that isn’t repaired. Yeah, give them one chance to fix the fix , but not two.
When choosing a car what is most important to you price or performance?
Yes & yes. Unfortunately I’m not fabulously wealthy, so price matters. However, within my buying power window, performance looms large in the legend of my car buying history.In my early years, performance was the paramount non-pecuniary criterion & utility was very secondary. That lasted a long time, but as family responsibilities began to intrude upon my racing activities, I owned a series of outrageously fast station wagons — with the biggest engines available, plus stiffened suspensions. They didn’t get raced, but the kick in the ass was used with abandon.At 80 yrs of age, I am financially secure but physically past my best before date. I own a pair of Chrysler 300s with 5.7 HEMI engines. One is my wife’s 300C Platinum edition, loaded to the nose holes with convenience, but with a cat-back & mildly tweaked processor (including no speed limiter ).My latest & my personal toy is a 300S 5.7 with Brembo brakes, matched ports, cat-back, cold-air & obligatory processor tweaks. It goes fast enough for me, handles very nicely & generally kicks ass. It will likely be my last car & it is a gorgeous piece of machinery — so much better than the bosses 300C.The urge never goes away even if the flesh is weak.