How do I fix my car having a rough idle after replacing the alternator?
You're right to assume that something else going on. Because it is!Personally I'd check to see if the alternator is providing the right amount of voltage. it's not impossible to get the wrong part installed. and when I say that, I don't necessarily mean you chose the wrong part, but during the assembly line a part they grabbed while assembling the alternator could have been or of spec or something. Check the grounds. A lot of the time, over years of use a little sand blasting or sand papering of the hookups does help. while running the engine, disconnect the battery. A poorly performing battery can drag the entire system down. check to make sure your AC ain't causin' problems too. make sure the clutch is spinning or not spinning when not being used. double check the water pump to see if it was messed up. lastly check all your ignition wiring too. depending on the model year and brand, it might be chatty with obd2. if it's carbureted, obviously you won't get any feedback. if it is obd2, there might be information in there that can give you an idea of what's going on. so get a reader and check. also with modern fi engines, they'll run rough after a battery removal for a while. make sure your fuel economy hasn't been affected, if it has, it's a clear indication that something is wrong.
How much would it cost to fix a blown head gasket on a 2004 Dodge Stratus?
Im lookin to buy my first car. I found a 2004 dodge stratus on craigslist. It appears to be in awesome shape >><
Do I have to replace my engine if 2 of 6 cylinders have only 1/2 recommended compression pressure ?
I read that even the front O2 sensors are under the car in a 96 ford taurus so i decided to go to a mechanic (especially since the car was smoking today). He said 2 cylinders out of 6 dont have enough compression and i need a new engine. Is it true theres no other way to repair the cylinders except by replacing/rebuilding the engine?
How to tell if timing chain was installed wrong?
You all are making it more complicated than it is! essentially "Fivetoze" is right. if you set the cam/crank index correctly your only concern is ignition timing with the intake stroke. two steps. 1) setting tdc compression stroke; two ppl job. pull the #1 plug. put your finger in the plug hole. turn the crank until your finger pops out. the crank should be a few degrees btdc or at tdc. this puts it at tdc on the *compression* stroke. -------------- 2) indexing the ignition timing. after the steps above to set tdc compression, remove the distributor cap. the rotor should be pointing at the #1 plug hole on the cap. if not, pull the distributor, do not turn the housing, just enough to turn/index the rotor to the #1 plug hole. reinstall. do ensure you have the correct firing order (wires) starting at the #1 plug hole on the cap. or you can do the wire swap as "Fivetoze" suggests. if you have enough wire length. start your firing order at the plug hole the rotor is pointing at when your at tdc on compression. i prefer things on their marks. you should be ready to start and hit with your t-light. cheers!
What are the effects of driving a car with a misfiring cylinder?
OK. I am a gear head who loves working on cars and has done so since the 1960’s.If a cylinder is misfiring because of an ignition problem you will, in the short term, just experience a loss of power increase your fuel consumption. In the longer term, continuing to drive it that way could destroy a coil and cost you more money.If, however, the misfire is caused by an injector problem, you could seriously damage your engine. Running that cylinder too lean will cause it to overheat and potentially damage the valve or the piston. If it is running excessively rich the unburned fuel could be washing the lubrication off of the cylinder walls leading to severe wear. In either case, repairing the damage will be expensive.NEVER drive a car that has a problem. NEVER drive a car in which the Check Engine light is on. If the Check Engine light begins to flash, SHUT OFF THE ENGINE, NOW! A problem that to you seems small, if not repaired, can cause a lot of damage that will be very expensive to fix.Read your car’s manual. Do exactly what it recommends. Find a mechanic you trust. Doing preventive maintenance will cost you a lot less than repairing the damage caused by neglecting to keep your car serviced.
How to remove cylinder head on an engine?
I have a cold, clammy feel about this. Air blowing out of the crankcase is a bad sign, although some in and out puffing is normal. However, I would remove the valve cover first. Not much work in most cases, hard to mess up (don't overtighten it when you put it back on), and it gives you a view of the valves. Kill the fuel injection and have a helper crank the engine while you watch the valves on that cylinder. You should see the valves move up and down. If the valve never moves up it is bent and the head does have to come off. If the valve never moves down. compare things with the other cylinders. If the valves operate normally there is very likely a bad problem in the bottom end - hole in the piston, broken rod the guy dealt with by removing the end on the crankshaft, something like that. If that is the case you will be money ahead to replace the engine with a used or rebuilt one, depending on budget. A professional evaluation will be important at that stage.