No heat, heat not hot enough, in car 2000 Mazda 626?
Their is different types of cooling systems. First of all you need to check the flow to you heater core. If one side of t he hose is hot to the heater valve you know to getting their ok. Next is to check the hose that is leaving the heater core. This would tell you if proper flow is going through the core. My guess would be either a heater core is plugged or your heater value is not opening all the way. These hoses are located close to the fire wall of the vehicle. Different cars have different locations. Check Mazda Hanes repair manual to see where location it. Also it should give you more information about checking and maybe flushing your system...
2004 Mazda Rx8- heat won't work?
There's a 50/50 chance of my heat working when I get in my car in the morning. Some things I've noticed: -If I lay on the gas then it turns right back to ice cold -I'm not sure if this was around the same time or not, but the seat warmer on the drivers side doesn't work either -At random it will decide to turn on regardless of if I've touched the knobs or changed any settings -Some times if I change it from cold to hot it'll kick on I really have no idea what's wrong with it or how to fix it. Any insight?
Luke Warm Heat From Heater Core?
1993 Mazda MX-3 Base 1.6 Recently I've come across the problem of having very little heat through the heater core. While the blower is not running, the heater core hoses are both hot, while the blower running the inlet hose is hot while the outlet is cooler. Which means that the heater core is not clogged. The upper radiator hose is hot, while the lower cool which I would expect. The thermostat has recently been changed along with the cooling system being burped properly, including the blower being on high/hot while burping the system to get rid of any possible air bubbles within the heater core. I noticed while changing out the thermostat that the coolant temperature sensor was eroding because of the glycol mix of the antifreeze. It will be replaced. However, I haven't noticed that the fans turn on because of this, but the coolant gauge reads normal operating temperature whether idling, cruising at low RPM, or doing 65 MPH down the freeway. The water pump works fine as I can visually see the coolant flow from the water neck on the radiator. I would imagine that the radiator cap would cause a problem much like a clogged radiator; opening sooner rather than later by the pressure in the system. As I'm not sure when the radiator cap was last changed, this is also a common problem when concerning loss of coolant (which isn't a problem immediately). The other problem that I would see is the coolant temperature sensor itself, however, it has nothing to do with the heater core temperature, rather the fans not turning on. While squeezing all the hoses (upper and lower radiator, heater core hoses), when cold and hot, the coolant raises in height with the radiator cap off. This might lead me to believe that there might be a sleight blockage in the system not allowing the hot coolant to flow through the heater core effectively.
How can i fix my 2005 mazda rx8 heater?
Bleed the air out of your coolant. Rotary cars seem to get this bug more than others do. To do so, remove the radiator cap, start the engine and let the car warm up. Air bubbles will float to the top and break. Add coolant as needed
What causes a car battery terminal to get hot when trying to start it?
Possibly this1. If wires get hot when you try to start it and the motor is spinning over. Then the motor isn't starting and your over heating the cables by using the starter too much.2. If the wires are getting hot, but the engine isn't turning over then the starter is bad or the BIG wire going to the starter is shorted.3. If only one wire is getting hot at a connection, then you have a bad connection at that point. A symptom of this problem is everything electrical shuts off when you hit the starter.
Why does my car's temperature get high when I turn the AC on?
Assuming that the auxiliary fan (s) come on when the A/C is on, There are several reasons that the temp gauge rises….Is your temp gauge accurate? Most car companies have the dash gauge designed to go to the middle of it’s sweep and stay there, unless the engine gets really hot, they usually just goes to the middle and sits there, as long as the coolant temperature is between 70 C and 100C. They make them like that so that the consumer doesn’t see it moving around on a regular basis, that way, when it does go up, it gets noticed quicker. To determine if yours is accurate, or if it’s the kind that just sits there until something goes really wrong, an OBD2 code reader talks to the temp sensor that the engine’s ECU ( Engine Control Unit )… If the reader shows the temperature rising, but the dash gauge doesn’t budge.. then you know..Let’s assume that your gauge IS accurate… When you turn on the A/C , several factors now come into play. First, you’ve just placed a ( slightly) higher load on the engine, which is now burning more fuel, and creating a bit more heat. Secondly, that fan that just started spinning? Yup, it’s electrically powered, which means the Alternator is now needing more power from the engine.. A bit more fuel, a bit more heat created for the engine’s cooling system. Thirdly, all that energy ( Heat ), that the A/C has removed from the car’s interior .. Guess where it’s going?.. To it’s own little radiator, properly called a condenser coil, and that’s located right in front of the radiator. So now you have hotter air than before passing through the car’s radiator.Thermostats don’t “pop” open and closed, they open a bit as the coolant temperature gets to the design spec of the cooling system. They don’t open to full flow for at least another 10 C.Thermal efficiency.. As a radiator gets older, scale buildup on the inside of the tubes inhibits the transfer of heat to the air passing over the fins.Add all these together, and you have the reason that the temp gauge moves when you turn on the A/C..
2005 RX8 Rough Start when Cold?
Hello all, I have a 2005 RX8 and it has been having problems starting up when cold. It will chug like it wants to flood, and the RPM needle will fluctuate to 9k and back to 0 before it is started, and eventually it catches and runs like normal. After I have warmed the engine up and been driving for a while, if I shut it off and start it back up, I encounter none of these problems. It seems it only starts rough when it is not warmed up, but it always starts. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Why does my car overheat only while driving?
The answer lies somewhere in the coolant system. More than likely, your thermostat is stuck. there are a few other things to check.1. Make sure your coolant levels are correct.2. Make sure the system is purged of any air that might be trapped (this would more than likely make the temps appear too cold though).3. Your water pump could be getting worn out and not pumping the coolant fast enough any more.In my experience, the thermostat has always stuck open making my vehicles run too cold, but I suppose it could also get stuck closed or partially open in which case it would cause the engine to get too hot during heavy engine use.Changing the thermostat is relatively easy for most cars and the part itself is very cheap (less than $10). It's worth changing first before paying hundreds to change the water pump.If you do have to change the water pump, it may be a good time to get your timing belt changed along with the timing belt tensioner pulleys and any oil seals that are behind the timing belt since they will have to be taken off to change the pump anyways.
What happens when you drive your car without warming it up?
As someone else mentioned, most wear occurs when the engine is first started. When an engine is running at correct temperature, the journal/bearing surfaces (wearing parts) are separated by a thin film of oil (actually float on this film). When you initially start the engine, you have metal to metal contact (parts not yet floating on the oil film). Ideally, you should start your engine and then drive off in a normal manner - no real need to wait for everything to warm up. In this manner the engine will reach its operating temperature optimally. Note, I said drive in a normal manner. The engine will suffer wear if it is cold and is subjected to abnormal acceleration/decelerations. Oil has not reached correct operating temperature and under this type of driving, metal to metal contact occurs between the bearing surfaces. From your description, of the way your brother-in-law drives his (your words 'like he stole it') I would definitely say that he is causing immense damage to the engine. Long term, this type of damage results in is worn bearings - (bearing knock) which if not repaired will result in a seized engine or worse broken crank shaft.
Are you supposed to warm up your car if you have a manual transmission?
I live in MN where it's colder than 33 degrees half of the year. I've heard letting your car warm up for at least 5 minutes in the cold gets the oil and transmission fluid flowing smoothly before you take off. Not letting it warm up results in dry gears grinding and possibly destroying your transmission. But i've also heard that with the cars these days, it doesn't matter if you let it warm up or not. I have a manual 02' Jetta 2.0L and i always let it warm up in the cold before i go anywhere. Am i wasting gas or am I doing what i'm supposed to do?