Size Engin In A 92 Suburban 1500

What is the average cost to replace your car engine?

I've replaced numerous engines in everything from an inexpensive Chevy Chevette to a Grand Prix V8 in a BMW X5 AWD and a V12 in a McLaren F1, and everything in between. Engine replacement costs can vary wildly depending on application, the donor engine and who does the work. For most Japanese cars, there are frequently used Japanese engines available with low mileage. These are imported from Japan and are recovered from their aggressive auto recycling program. If you have a late-model Japanese car, this is usually the most economic and reasonable way to go, and most can be done for around $2000 out the door.For European luxury cars, the prices usually exceed the cost of the vehicle, so scrapping the car is unfortunately the best option, from a financial point of view. For most American cars, it's best to locate a good, low-mileage engine at a wrecking yard and have an independent mechanic do the installation. If your local wrecker doesn't have your specific engine, they can search using a parts "hotline." There are also engine rebuilders out there in larger metropolitan areas who can rebuild your existing engine from start to finish. You just leave the car and pick it up a few days later. However check these vendors carefully with the BBB and Yelp! to make sure they have a good reputation. Also, the additional service level may cost you more than you'd expect. I also recommend taking pictures of your car before you leave it with them to make sure it's returned to you in undamaged condition.

What will happen if I use 87 gasoline in a car that take E85 gas?

I’m going to assume that your vehicle is a flex fuel capable vehicle from the factory. If that is the case then these vehicles are designed to run on E85, gas, or any blend of the two from the manufacturer. The implementation of the flex fuel setup is not optimal, especially on the more recent models, but running 87 gasoline is fine. Because of the poor implementation of flex fuel on vehicles you probably won’t see much difference between 87 and E85 except potentially lower mpg when running E85.BUT, if your vehicle is running an aftermarket tune for E85 and you put 87 in the tank your car will choke with fuel as E85 tunes are richer than 87 tunes. You will need to drain your tank of the E85 and switch your vehicle’s tune back to an 87 fuel map before running 87.

What are some symptoms of a bad idle air control sensor?

Idle air control valves open to allow more air to "leak" into the intake, raising the engine rpms, or close when not needed. When your AC compressor kicks in or power steering is activated as you suddenly turn the steering wheel, the sudden drag on the drive belt will bog down the engine. These systems send a signal to the engine computer telling it they are active and it then signals the IAC valve to open, which increases the engine speed. Without this occurring,  the engine could struggle, or die. The IAC valve can cause weird idle issues, mess with throttle functionality or cause the car to die. Sometimes they fail, get stuck or just get all carboned up. Sometimes people have success at cleaning them, but generally it is best to replace them when bad. Idle issues and even problems with the IAC valve may not be due to the IAC valve being bad itself. An idle issue does not mean the IAC valve is bad. It is best to pay close attention to how the vehicle is acting, and then communicate that clearly and as completely as possible to your mechanic. Intermittent problems can be very hard to diagnose. Details will help. Knowing more about the vehicle in question and its symptoms (in detail) will also help in understanding more about what it is doing.

How do I bypass power steering pump and completely get rid of it?

What do you mean when you say that the pump can't be repaired or replaced? If it's a matter of not being able to afford to fix it or you can't get the parts, then you are probably going to be without a truck for a while until you can get it fixed properly. While it may technically be possible to do away with the power steering, it is most likely going to be more difficult and more expensive than making repairs (if you want it to be safe at all).Vehicles that have power steering simply aren't designed to be driven without it. You will cause damage to other steering components such as the rack or gearbox. Not only that, but vehicles are geared differently now. The steering on a non powered vehicle was designed to function without hydraulics. Without power, a modern system's steering radius is affected greatly, they literally can't turn as far without power.The heavier the vehicle, the harder it is to steer without power. In particular, I would not attempt to drive any pickup(or larger vehicle) on the road without power steering. There's simply to much risk.There are only two times when I would even consider driving a vehicle with failed power steering:In an emergency. Either I need to get the vehicle home, or I need to get someone to a hospital and have no other options.It's a farm vehicle, the only thing I use it for is moving a few tools around a field.I've had to move two modern vehicles with failed power steering. The first was a Honda Civic that wouldn't run. We dragged it about ten miles with me steering the car. It was really hard to turn at all, and that was with a fairly lightweight car. Afterwards it felt like I'd spent the entire day weightlifting, just from a short drive.The other vehicle was my friend's Dakota pickup. I went out with him to get the truck. The pump had failed and we needed to get it back to his house so that we had space and tools to work with. We got it started, he hopped in to drive, and I followed in my car. I followed him right up until he plowed into a tree on a particularly sharp turn. He simply couldn't make the turn without power steering. He ended up with a tow bill, body shop bill, the repair bill for the pump, and a hospital visit on top. That's why I will never recommend doing away with power steering on a vehicle.

What is the difference between 4x4 and Z71 trucks?

Not to be too lengthy, and some great answers here. Just wanted to provide a bit of background. Years ago, when dealers ordered GM trucks (GMC and Chevrolet) when you ordered a 4wd truck, you could add the Z-71 option code, which was an OFF Road suspension. It included Billstein or Monroe shocks, skid plates under the tansmission and transfer case, and sometime, the G-80 EATON rear locking axle. The option became so popular, people soon started asking for trucks with the Z71 option. The Dealer would have to pull the invoice on the truck or review every window sticker on the lot. So, for ease of identifying, GM started putting decals on the trucks with the package. Eventually, the package became so popular they turned it into an entire trim level, even making it available on 2WD models. It was a very affordable option, considering everything you got for the price. However, many 4X4 trucks didn't have the option, and only said 4X4. Today, it doesn't necessarily mean what it used to, but originally, it was just an option, known only to dealers, for the off road package.

What are the differences between a K1500 and a C1500 Chevy truck?

Plain and simple, the difference between a K series truck and a C series truck is a transfer case, different suspension, and a front axle. The K series truck is four wheel drive and has these items. The C series is two wheel drive and does not, therefore, it also uses a transmission that has a longer output shaft and a tail shaft housing, because it isn't mounted to a transfer case. The C designates the vehicle as a two wheel drive. The K, a 4WD.Some other differences are that many of the earlier models of the 2WD truck used the 5-bolt lug pattern while the 4WD used the 6-lug pattern. Also, the 2WD truck used a rotor integrated into the hub, and that hub had an inner and outer wheel bearing and bearing races, as well as a grease seal, in the hub. The hub and rotor were mounted on a spindle and a nut was used to hold it in place, similar to how the front hubs were mounted on most rear wheel drive automobiles. The 4WD hub was part of the axle assembly. The rotor was placed on the hub and held on by the brake calipers.