PA speaker advice and review?
You left out a lot of information....namely what kind of PA head are you running? Depending on the amp and the impedance of the speakers, you may only be drawing a fraction of the power from the head. Amps have a "minimum load" spec, and that's expressed in ohms. That's the load that the amp produces the most power. Typically, you'll see "xxx Watts at 4 ohms". Or it could be 8 ohms...or 2 ohms (but I never trust a 2 ohm load on an amp unless it's a very high grade professional touring amp). OK, the speakers. The wattage rating on speakers tells you how much power you can safely put in them without damaging them. It really doesn't tell you that much about how loud they will get. The spec that tells you that is called the efficency! What that describes is how well the speaker converts electrical energy into acoustic energy. It's measured by putting 1 watt of power to the speaker (usually using pink noise as the source), and measuring the sound pressure level at 1 meter away. So, you'll see it written something like 97dB/1w/1m. Decibels (dB) are funny things. They follow what's called a logarithmic curve. I won't get into the math on that, but suffice it to say that everytime you gain another 3 dB of efficiency, it's like doubling the power of the amp driving it. A 6 dB difference would be 4 times the power. OK..after all of this you want to know for sure if those Radio Shack speakers will work. And the answer is no, I can't tell you that for sure. I looked up the speakers, and they didn't publish an efficiency specification on them. Without that, it's just a guess. I will say that those speakers had good reviews, but personally I wouldn't be caught dead with them. I would tell you to save up and get yourself some used Yamaha, EV, JBL, or even Carvin monitors. Of course, there's a really cheap solution to your problem. Tell the rest of the band to turn down and have the drummer quit beating the $#!+ out of his kit. Good luck. Greetings from Austin, Tx Ken
Matrix speaker system???
This is one of the white van scam brands. Do your self a favor and stay away. Also make sure to inform law enforcement of the whereabouts of the sellers. More than likely they are investigating them for fraud. This scam shield site has a lot of helpful information. I have looked at some of these systems myself and as far as I can tell they are manufactured in China or Hong Kong. My own test results show that not only are the specs exaggerated, they are completely fabricated. I highly recommend that you not purchase them at all and look at a Onkyo , Yamaha or Denon HTIB before buying from someone. P.S. I would if you are comfortable with it like to e-mail me the location that they were at to confront and debunk their claims.
Speaker/Receiver/Home Theatre Advice?
Hi Everyone, My receiver is dated and my speakers (Pioneer S-H351F-K), though I love them, have to go because the speaker wire clip on the back of one of the speakers snapped off while I was moving them and the wire won't stay put. I assume it will cost more to fix them then to purchase something new. Anyway, I am looking for a good, inexpensive receiver to hook my Hitachi 51/57/65F59A CRT RPTV up to as well as some good, inexpensive speakers or speaker system. Preferably, I would like to buy a "home theatre in a box" type thing but only need the receiver and speakers...I do not not need a DVD player. Also, if the satellite speakers were wireless...that would be a plus because I am in an apartment. Any recommendations?? Thanks!
What car speaker, stereo, subs, system should i get?
SonicElectronix.com: your shopping center. my reccomendations: head unit (idk of any1 who says deck :P) dont knock walmart till u tried it....great deals there (compare with sonicelectronix first tho ^) speakers: any'll do...if you are thinking about amping them up then you needto make sure they can handle the power (just compare them to the amp you are lookin at) -if your sub requires 200w or less dont get an amp....its redundant because headunits usually put out around 200w anyway -the speaker description will tell you if it comes with fittings to mount in other holes (a 6" having hookups to fit a 6 1/2 for example) -40-50 is a kinda minimum value for speakers (you can and should look for lower prices but if they are not worth 50 on average, its not gonna be a good quality door speaker) -id reccomend either a 10" or an 8" subwoofer (or maybe a pair of either) because anything over is taking more space for the sole purpose of BIG sound -amp is your call....u prob wont need one for your door speakers (unless u wanna amp em up ^^) but you will need some kind of amp for your subwoofer (usually)....you dont strike me as the kind of person that particularly wants to worry about mixing and matching an amp to a speaker(s) to a box, so you probably want to look at powered subs or prefabricated enclosures (comes assembled): -the powered subwoofer (or woofer, depends on range) has an amp built in....simply plug wires into the right places and you have music....great for times when space, money, and time are an issue i would also recomend visiting some different car audio shops and asking around on speaker brands, hearing the types from the demonstration booths: if you find a brand you like you can get it there or (maybe) online cheaper.
Advice needed: My car music system lacks punch?
This is my setup and my car is VW POLO. Kenwood Ddx514 Touchscreen Rockford fosgate 4 channel amplifier 50w RMS. - In Boot space ( connected to polk SUB) Rockford fosgate PRIME series (Full range speakers-rounded) 40w RMS , Fronts/rear. Connected in Front/Rear Doors. Polk audio SUB - In Boot space Initialy my plan to go for components in the front. My installer intialy intalled Hertz components in the front and HErtz coaxials in the rear. Components were connected to AMP, and coaxials connected to HU. The sound was hurrible. The BASS was boomy and highs were very thin and irritiating my ears. So I asked him to show some other speakers. He showed me Polk components. I some how didnt like the sound from components since the highs were not balanced with BASS as in coaxials.Not sure whether its a tuning issue. I felt Coaxials better for my listening taste. Hence I asked him to show coaxial speakers. He showed many brands ..out of it i shortlisted Polk and Rockford fosgate. After listening many times i felt Rockford fosgate handles better than Polk speakers and sounded nice. I went with it. Even though this setup is good somehow there's a lack of punch in highs and midrange. I previously owned Pioneer HU/speakers there it played louder and good. That kind of punch is lacking in this setup. My AMP is connected to SUB in bridged mode.Installer didnt connect coaxials to AMP even though my AMP has another output left ,since the speakers i selected is 40w RMS and since he told connecting to AMP doesnt make much difference i just left it. Is it true ? I told the installer that my system lacks punch. And he even connected Rockford fosgate punch series speakers (60w RMS)to me and still there's a lack in punch. Finally he is telling me to replace the Head Unit and suggesting me to switch to Pioneer. Guys, I need the serious advice from you. Where is the problem?. Is it Installation problem / Tuning / Or Speaker issue? (out of speakers he has shown Rockford sounded best among ). I tried tuning in different ways still doesnt improve.My Polk SUB works well and punch BASS well. Only speakers lack punch. If I go with higher watts speakers, will it improve sound quality with my existing setup?. Or, Do I need to change HU as installer is saying?.
Bose Wave music system.. Advice needed urgently!?
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Bose has been trying to monopolize the speaker market for a very long time. They have their own way of doing things and they are proud of that, whether it's fair or even ethical. And they will sue anyone that gets in their way. I consider them to be the arrogant bully of the audio market. I understand that Monster Cable has taken up a similar tactic. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - See this reference of one of the largest entities Bose is currently suing... http://www.cedia.net/press_media/bose_updates.php - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - The Bose Wave Radio is decent sounding in a convenient compact design, but from a value standpoint, $500 is way too much to spend for a "radio" -you're basically paying for their patented speaker enclosure design of the unit. You might as wll get a full-size (stereo or home theater) system for that kind of money. If you want to find out for yourself about this system (strongly recommended), you should audition one (you might even have a Bose store in your area if not just one of the big chain consumer electronics stores) AFTER you browse other brands' offerings FIRST because then you will have something to compare it to. On the other hand, if you just audition the Bose first without comparing, Bose and their masterminds of marketing may sell you on their product before you have actually had a chance to compare with an informed decision making process. I'm not saying to stay away from anything Bose like others may exclaim. I believe in giving everyone a fair chance. I am just saying, give everyone a fair chance by letting your ears decide which brand and model of gear you want to live with and enjoy. To visually examine some options, see the links provided below... H a p p y L i s t e n i n g ! = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Big Car Audio Advice Need Please :-)?
At the moment I'm running as follows: 3 x DB Audio T-Rex 3000 watt subs (each) 1 x 8000 watt mono D amp 1 x 2000 watt amp to run front and rear speakers 1 x Front components 1 x Rear 6.5inch 1 x Yellow top battery (To run the system) Pioneer double din head unit 0 gage cable And one massive fuse in the engine bay. My question is - I want to take my back seats out so I can get a load more bass (a not which makes you feel sick) but I don't know if to get more 12's or go for 2/3 15's on top of the 3 12's I have at the moment. Yes the bass is excellent but I have got use to it. The bass makes it look like the front window screen wants to pop and the car goes mental, but the long of it is... I WANT MORE!!! lol Can someone please advice me if I need more 12's or should I mix it up a bit and have my 3 12's and 2 or 3 15's on top. Thank you for reading :-) 2 days ago - 2 days left to answer. The specs of each item is below: - Amplifier - 1200w RMS x1 @ 4 ohms 2300w RMS x1 @ 2 ohms 4000w RMS x1 @ 1 ohms 8000 Watts Max Power Regulated power supply MOSFET power supply Oversize Power Tranformer Bipolar Output devices Dimensions (L x W x H) 480mm x 250mm x 55.5mm Variable gain adjustment Variable cross over (high/low pass) Thermal protection Overload protection 1 ohms Stable Variable Subsonic Filter 20Hz- 50Hz Low pass filter frequency 50Hz - 250Hz Digital Subwoofer Level Control Bass Boost Subwoofers - 3000 watts 12' subwoofer 1000 watts RMS Black powder finish die cast basket Kevlar woven nonpress paper cone with EROM foam surround 3' hi-temp 4-layer voice coil Double stacked 200oz magnets Mirror-image multi-layer nomex spiders Chrome finished T-yoke with logo etched Dual 2ohm impedance Chrome push termianl Rubber gasket Rubber magnet boot I know I will need more amps and batteries