Problems with Creative P7800 Subwoofer?
9 times of 10 it is the speaker cables. Check all the plugs twice and do some wiggling of wires. My Creative sub woofer is powered, so I would check that. Sometimes it can be the most obvious thing so you need to check anything that you can think of. It sounds like hardware to me though and the woofer has no moving parts. I would do a system restore just to make sure that it isn't software related. If it is hardware then I am wiling to bet the a wire came lose as the sub woofer does put put some energy. http://www.creative.com then select your region and support. They will get back to you within 24 hours by E-mail. I just went through this about some sound card software.
Will my subwoofer drain my car battery?
Caps are near useless at your power level. Do "the big 3" instead. It will work 10x better for less money. I would strongly suggest that you set the amplifiers gain at 1000 watts rms with a dmm. That will protect the subwoofer from being overpowered and limit the current draw from the battery. Most cars can handle 1000 watts rms with nothing but the big 3. But, your car can not handle 2500 watts rms with out major electricial upgrades. http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/access... http://www.youtube.com/results?search_qu... http://knowledge.sonicelectronix.com/car...
Subwoofer draining battery?
With the 2008 Chevy Malibu you have a 105A alternator. The vehicle uses 40% of the power, leaving you with 60%. That 60% is roughly 830w @ 13.3v. You will have a little loss of power, but if you just let the car run about 3 minutes before turning it off (not playing music) then you'll be okay when you go to start your car. Don't get a capacitor, I'm just forewarning you, because they're pointless. Trust me. You'll be fine. Good luck!
Subwoofer battery problem?
As usual, KZ is on top of it. Several of the answers to this point are total wastes of time and space. A boss amp claiming 2000w probably isn't good for more than 400 or 500w rms. This shouldn't be enough power to stress the electrical system of any car built in the last 20 yrs assuming the alternator is functional and the battery is reasonably healthy. Your first paragraph is a clear indicator you have a bad alternator. The battery's main purpose is to start the car. Once the engine is running the alternator operates at a higher voltage so it is the source of all the electrical needs of the vehicle and keeps the battery charged. When an alternator fails the battery is the only source in the system. A healthy battery can run the car for quite a while, but eventually it will be depleted and the car will no longer run. The fact that you jumped the car, but it stopped running when you removed the jumper cables tells you the alternator is no longer functioning. Running a car battery dead can reduce its capacity, but if it's in good health you should be able to revive it to close to original health. Alternator replacement can vary drastically based on the shop's rate, part quality, car type. Personally, I do my own for $100-150 in a common domestic vehicle. I would guess $300-400 for a similar car at the average repair shop. A newer car, or rare car could easily be $500+. A high quality alternator can cost $300-400 for just the part.
Subwoofer/Amp Draining My Battery?
Car amps draw a lot of juice. Nothing is wrong except that your amp is staying on when your car is off. The amp should have a remote wire. This wire should be hooked to a fuse that shuts off when you turn off your car. Some radios have a remote wire that hooks to the amp remote. A simple fix. Fix it soon, the more times you drain your battery, the weaker it will become and eventually will be no good.
Car audio problems with subwoofer... need help please!?
For dual voice coil subs you definitely want to wire both coils up at the same time. Reasons is you are pushing the sub to the limits with one coil only hooked up. It will cause the voice coils to heat up and destroy the sub (this happened to me with an XXX 12" RE audio sub. The shop I took my subwoofer to, made a box and hooked up only ONE FRIGGIN COIL!!! Pissed me off...I blew it...didnt realize it was hooked up to just one coil. Now my sub is useless ($800 sub...wasted) I should have checked but you figure the shop knew what they were doing...(or one would hope...) If your other 12" SS is wired with only one coil too...I'd suggest fixing that right away before you damage that one too. And play Low/medium volume of sound thru the sub for a few hours first to get the NEW Coil that hasnt been hooked up some play time and get it warmed up so to speak (or broken in). As far as repairing the sub, you are looking at replaceing the voice coils. And possibly even just plain RECONING it, it's not easy to replace just the voice coils as you are tearing down the whole sub taking off the cone and coils. Most likely damaging the cone to replace the coils in the process. You might check Fi Car audio to see if they will recone it. But unless these puppies are AMAZING $300+ subs, most recone kits run $100+ and then labor to recone. Link to Fi's Technical forum: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum... You can ask them there. But if you read some of the questions asked as to how much to recone ...your 12's will probably cost around the same. (If they have the parts and ability to work with your Autotek SS Sub. I am assuming that these are your subs? http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/... or very similar to...they cost around $80....So unless Fi Car Audio can do the recone cheap, it's probably not worth fixing. Also realize the time and cost to ship. Just wouldnt be worth it...buy new ones if that's the case. If you plan to replace your bad 12"...then hook the subs this way: http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/lear... of course make sure you get the same sub....or fix the bad one. that is the only way to prevent this problem.
Why are my Subwoofers killing my battery?
I'm doubtful that your subs are to blame for the battery problems. It's possible, but shop mechanics tend to blame after-market equipment for everything--it's like a reflex. If your battery is dead after sitting overnight, then you most likely have a parasitic drain. You need to address that problem before replacing the battery, because if you don't, you'll ruin the new battery too, no matter how good a battery you buy. A parasitic drain means that something in the truck is consuming more current than it should while the truck is shut off. You can test for a parasitic drain using a multimeter with a current measurement function. To rule out the subwoofer system, remove the fuse from the amplifier's power wire near the battery. Now set the multimeter for "DC amps" (you'll probably need to insert the test leads into different spots on the meter). Make sure the audio system and the key are turned off. Touch the test leads to the fuse holder terminals, one at each terminal, and you can measure the current level that's going through the fuse holder to the amplifier. It might start out a little high and then drop, so keep the probes connected until it settles to a rest level. If the current measurement is higher than 50mA (0.050 amps) then the amplifier is a suspect for your battery drain. Most likely it will be much lower. If the amplifier isn't the problem, then you'll need to do more testing to track down the drain. Parasitic drain testing is done by disconnecting the negative battery terminal, and placing the meter in series between the negative terminal and the cable. That way you're measuring all the current that's being used in the vehicle. Make sure that the key remains turned off during testing. You will probably also need to remove the fuse for the dome light, or remove the dome light bulb, so you can have the door open without the dome light current messing up the testing. (If there's an under-hood light, pull that too). If you see a current reading over 0.050 amps, start removing fuses. Take a fuse out of the vehicle's fuse box, see if the current reading drops, then put it back. If you find a fuse that significantly affects the current flow, then you've found the problem circuit. Then you can find out what accessories are powered through that circuit.
Will my amp and subwoofer drain the battery in my car?
That setup is low enough power to not cause any harm to a stock setup. The only way it will "drain" your battery is if you leave the amp/sub/stereo playing while the engine is not running. When the engine is not running, the alternator is not spinning and your battery is not charging. You have nothing to worry about with that setup as long as you don't listen to the stereo with the engine off for more than... idk maybe 30 minutes. But just be safe and leave the engine running. Good luck! EDIT: What the other answer is suggesting is a CAPACITOR... and what he said is very false. Capacitors are a band-aid for poor electrical systems, they don't help fix the issue, they cover it up. They are a waste of money.
Can a 12v battery run a 1000w stereo system?
There is quite a bit of information needed to provide an accurate answer, so I’ll assume a few things. Assuming you are talking about a car stereo, and assuming a real 1000W of amplifier output (to the speakers) and ignoring any efficiency losses we are already at 2000W input power to the stereo. This is because amplifiers dissipate at LEAST as much heat (power) internally as they are driving to the speakers. Again, this assumes perfectly matched impedances.To find the current needed, we use Watts law, and divide 2000Watts by 12V. (let’s assume 12V, and not 13.2 or thereabouts with engine running. Also, a fully charged car battery will be over 12V, but let’s round it down.) This formula gives us 167 amps.A large automotive (not truck) battery will be able to drive this for 10 minutes or so before it starts losing enough power to affect the sound quality or power output. If you really want to kill the battery, you can probably run it for 30 minutes or so, but you won’t be able to start your engine with that battery. Depending on the age of the battery, I’d let this run no more than 10 minutes, or you will start seriously cutting into the useful life of your battery. If you have the engine running, and have a high current stock alternator, that is probably capable of helping with possibly as much as 100 amps (keep in mind the alternator is also supplying power for the engine, computer, etc.) Even with the engine running, you will be depleting your battery, and this assumes your amplifier is 100% efficient, which is impossible.Automotive batteries are made to supply a LOT of current very quickly, but for just a few seconds. They are not designed for deep discharges like this stereo would be requiring. For that you would want a “deep cycle” battery.
Car audio system cuts out!!! Battery Problem maybe???
well i think you might want to have your belts on your engine checked out, you said it cuts out under acceleration right? Well when the car is accelerating it draws alot more power than normal (except diesel). So at the same time your system is still drawing power as well, it makes scence that it cuts out because the car needs the power first and formost! It could also be due to the fact that your drawing too much power from your alternater and it cannot keep up with the need. Get a deep cycle battery, new high aperage alternater and then top it all off with a capasitor. This will ensure that all your new components are equally fed and nothing will be cutting out on you! And no, like that other answer said a capasitor WILL NOT shorten the life of your equipment. However, uneducated and lack of expierence will. Always trust expierence over guesses, that answer is false! A capasitor HELPS the alternater work less :) Goodluck!