Any ideas on my manual transmission issues?
It sounds like your clutch is not fully disengaging. It may be that the clutch master cylinder or clutch slave cylinder is leaking, thus preventing full disengagement. Some leaks are external, and fluid escapes the hydraulic system and can be seen. Some leaks are internal, and no fluid escapes, but some fluid is bypassing a piston seal, so less total motion of the slave piston is the result, therefore incomplete clutch disengagement. You say the fluid level is not low. HAD it been low, recently? If you had to add some, you may have air in the system. It would need to be bled. If you have a roller pilot bearing that is unlubricated and trying to seize, it could make the same symptom. Your problem does not seem to be the transmission. Just for fun, with the engine OFF, and the clutch pedal pushed to the floor, can you easily shift into the gears that are giving you trouble? If you visit a mechanic and he wants to repair your transmission, find another mechanic.
F150 Manual transmission will not shift?
With the motor off, you should be able to just slip the transmission into all gears. Did you try this? With the motor running, if the clutch isn't disengaging, the transmission won't go into any gear. Good that you filled the reservoir with brake fluid. Was this the brake reservoir or the clutch reservoir? If the clutch reservoir got too low, there's a good chance you sucked air into the lines, so even adding brake fluid to the clutch reservoir may not get rid of the bubbles. If there are existing bubbles in the line, the air will compress, limiting the clutch's ability to disengage. If you can't do this, take the truck to a shop (or call that mobile mechanic) and get the clutch bled. This would also be a good time to see if it's the master cylinder or the slave cylinder that's leaking. ... Take care!!
Not really.Quick shifts tend to mean the clutch isn't in all the way and the detent/dogs on the selector shaft will wear faster. You'll be hammering on the slave cylinder on the clutch (the main weak point) and stressing the pilot/shaft bearings.Hard driving tends to leave the transmission feeling “sloppy” but rarely actually breaks stuff.The linkage tends to be pretty bullet proof being normally just a ball joint if its in the floor. The column shift may get loose if you man handle it.Normally, its the clutch gets most the wear (they actually should be lifetime… Replacement means you shift wrong)You can theoretically do it right though. Many manual drivers tend to shift wrong or lose HP because they don't stay on the redline/ understand the dynamics of flywheel speed (they make em heavy to be easy to shift).You can't rocket a stock flywheel by design. Its made so you don't stall.If your' going flat out you just bounce off the limiter and hammer the gears… its not a concern how many years it last when you drive like that.What's really fun are the old cammed engines and 2 stroke bikes that “torque out” where they lose power over 6k rpm you go to 7k… shift… then drop back into full power.If you're not racing… work on smooth. Its more impressive when people can't even feel your shift. The “rocking” is bad technique.
Car vibrates and grinding noise from front of car when braking from a high speed? Wheel is extrememly HOT?
Car vibrates and grinding noise from front of car when braking from a high speed? Wheel is extrememly HOT? Need Help, Car vibrates and grinding noise from front of car when braking from a high speed? I have a 98 Honda Accord. I haven't checked anything on the car yet but I am about to. The front end vibrates hard when braking from 40mph and up. It only does it from higher speeds. It is worse the faster I am going or the harder I press the brakes. There is a grinding and wobbling feel coming from the left wheel area. It makes the front end vibrate. I can feel it in the pedal and steering wheel. It doesn't do any of this at slow speeds. The right wheel is very hot to the point it is melting the plastic hub cap. The left wheel isn't as hot but the left one makes the rumbling noise when braking.
Manual car won't shift into gears?
I have a 97 Honda Civic EX with almost 130,000 miles. The other day when I was backing out of my driveway & went to put my car in 1st gear to go forward it wouldn't go into 1st. I tried putting it into other gears & it wouldn't go. I ended up turning off my car & fussing with it & it eventually was fine. But today it did the same thing I backed out of my driveway and it wouldn't go into 1st but eventually I got it to shift so I was driving along and came to a red light, once the light turned green and I went to put it into 1st it wouldn't go. I tried shifting into all other gears & no luck. Eventually I got into to go into 1st but then I pulled into a gas station. I tied messing with it & when I shifted it into reverse it made that grinding noise like when you try to shift without putting the clutch down. I've had a similar problem to this when I first got the car & the lines needed to be flushed. Does anyone know what this could be because I had my car towed & the truck driver was scaring me saying what he thinks it might be & how much it's going to cost. The mechanic is closed so I have to wait until tomorrow before my car can be diagnosed
Understanding transgendered lesbians better...help??
sounds like she is more than transgendered, she is a true transsexual. she identifies as a male, and she feel uncomfortable with the idea of sex in the female role. she's not technically a lesbian, she identifies herself as a man trapped in a female body who is attracted to women.. she probably feels uncomfortable in sexual situations because she does not have the genitilia that she feels she needs. sexuality and sexual orientation are two different things.. straight men do have a penis yet they are not attracted to others who have a penis. in my case, i am a biological male who identifies as a woman. i am bisexual but lean towards the lesbian side. i have tried to have sex as a man but i just felt so uncomfortable that i could never do it. i don't want to stick my penis anywhere because i don't feel i should have it. the idea of being a true woman and having lesbian sex with other women is what all of my fantacies are about.. i love giving oral sex to women and i love touching and fingering them.. but i've never felt comfortable letting anyone touch my penis because it just doesn't feel right. your friend probably would feel uncomfortable receiving oral sex and won't likely achieve orgasm because, like me, she feels trapped in the wrong body and won't be in a relaxed, comfortable frame of mind. feeling trapped in the wrong sex is not fun. it's not just about sexual activity, but it is every day life.. it's about social situations, it's about trying to fit into the world in a work environment.. it's very challenging. i always feel like an outsider, a loner. but the entire transition process is very costly and time consuming.. but in my case, at least i have something to live for. something to shoot for.. my goal is to save up enough money so that i can go thru the entire process.. visits to a gender therapist, female hormones, laser hair removal surgery, and ultimately, sexual reassignment surgury.. take care of your friend and love her and try to be understanding, and don't be afraid to ask her questions. i'm sure she will open up to you and try to explain everything she is going thru. all the best Jeff
Why is my car not shifting gears correctly?
If it a auto trans then take it to a good shop make sure that the car is in a good state of tune before diagnosing transmission problems ( good spark plugs and spark plug wires, good air filter, and good fuel pressure and volume). if the tech or shop can answer these questions than they can go ahead and diagnose auto trans concerns. if it is a standard transmission than make sure you are in the right gear when driving. acceleration you would need about 2800 to 4500 RPM on your tack any less and the car is not going to accelerate vary fast and may not be vary noticeable. Some times the best thing to do is to take the car to a dealership or independent shop that specializes in Honda. Explain to them the best you can what your concern is. you can expect to pay some ware between $100 and $200 just to find out what is wrong and how much it will cost to repair it. once they tell you what it will cost, you should singe a work order that authorizes that work for that price, this will protect you from a surprise bill. Good luck. A real live auto tech. with the paper to prove it.
Assuming you have a manual transmission, it's all in the timing. Many new drivers will complete the shift to a higher gear but pause before releasing the clutch pedal. That allows the engine to slow down while the car doesn't. When the clutch engages, the engine slows the car before it can spin fast enough to match the car's road speed. It feels like the driver momentarily hit the brakes. Just complete the up shift more quickly.In a downshift, raise the engine speed to match the road speed in the lower gear. If you just jam the shifter into the lower gear, the engine will drag the car speed down possibly causing a spin. Let's assume you need to raise engine speed 1,000 RPM to be smooth. the sequence is clutch in, blip the engine 2,000 RPM while shifting to the lower gear and releasing the clutch. That 'blip'is a momentary press on the gas pedal and you need a 2,000 RPM jump because you'll lose 1,000 as you complete the shift. You can practice that with the engine running and the car in neutral.