What could be wrong with a Nissan Altima that cranks but wont start?
The fuel pump fuse is blown or the fuel pump has failed.The crank position sensor has failed. Turn the key to "Run"Listen for the fuel pump to run for a few seconds then stop.If you don't hear the pump run:1) Turn the ignition key to the "Off" position and remove. Check the fuse in the engine bay fuse panel. This is a panel encased in a plastic box and usually has "FUSES" printed on the cover. Inside are high draw, high amperage fuses and relays for things like the fuel pump. Find the pump fuse, pull it and look to see if it's good. If it's blown, replace it with same amp rating fuse. Check again to see if you hear the pump run. If it does, you're lucky. Press on. Car should start. If the pump still doesn't run then see 2 below.2) If the fuse is good, then it's a good chance the pump has failed. You will have to tow the vehicle to the shop; it's dead in the water.If you hear the pump run and the car cranks but will not start, chances are it is the Crank Position Sensor (CPS). The CPS feeds info to the engine management computer telling it the crankshaft is rotating and to allow fuel flow and ignition to occur. If the computer doesn't get the CPS input, the car will not start. Again, dead in the water and a tow to the shop.Just had this experience on my '98 GMC pickup ...good pump, engine spins, no start. A flat bed ride to the local shop and ...ta-da! ...OBDII code reads CPS malfunction. Four hundred and some odd bucks later, she's up and running like a top.
I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima. The "service engine soon", "SLIP", and "TCS off" lights are on and it is hard to start. What does this mean?
Traction control tells me their is an issue with either the computer, or you might have had a wheel speed sensor separate. Hard to start has way too many possibilities, and depending on how integrated the systems are it could be one issue, or severel underlying issues. I have a feeling there may be more than one issue. The bottom line is you need to be informed. The best way to start tackling this is to stop by an auto parts store and have them plug in their OBD to at least let you know which codes are being thrown (it is free). The code will come with a set of numbers/letters and also a brief description of the issue. Similar to this.
I have a 1995 nissan sentra that wont start gets gas and it fires think it might be in the security system?
I am doubting the security system is behind this....It can be a number of things my first suspect being the ECM-( computer ) rather then guessing--you are probably better off getting this thing to a shop....FYI---the 1,6 engine is chain driven----usually they last very long with regular oil changes----and tend to slap or sound like a diesel before the chain jumps.
Security system preventing me from starting 97 NISSAN MAXIMA SE?
Yes it was an aftermarket stereo. DEH-P4200UB Pioneer to be exact. After I installed the stereo the car was fine. It was a couple of weeks later when I had an amp hooked up is when it happened. There was a blue remote wire ran from the amp that was tied into a blue wire coming out of a harness that wasn't even part of the stereo harness. My "BUDDY" said it was just hanging there so, thats were he thought it went. That was the only thing done different. I unhooked the wire and it still wouldn't turn over but my power antenna started working again after the disconnect.
I'm about to change my Nissan Sentra 1995 oil for the first time. What do I need to do?
SAE 5W-30....when is a new car...but used need a thicker one SAE 40 1 gallon and the filter.....you can add a FLUSH first to WASH the engine for 5 minutes and then drain it....change the filter and put the new oil.
How can I unlock my nissan sentra without a key?
I gently pull back on the back top corner of the passengers side door frame insert my wallet that 1/4 inch will give you room to use a 1/8" metal rod approx 3 feet long with a 90 degree bend on one end about a inch bent to hook the door lock and pull backward. Strong fence wire like top wire of chain link fence. But not your car antenna it looks funny when you bend the end and is just about 4 or 5 inches to short. Passengers side should you tear the rubber your ear is not right there listening to the wind noise. Coat hanger might not be strong enough to pull back that lock... Good Luck
The car won't start! i can roll down windows, turn on the wipers, blinkers,radio all that but it wont start.?
This may sound like a simple solution to your problem, but try it. It takes approximately 9.5 volts to start a car. If you hear a clicking sound, your battery is not putting out enough voltage. Your radio, headlights, etc., will all work, so you will think that your problem is your starter. NOT SO. Either you have a weak battery which need charging, or the most likely culprit are your battery cables. Most people will look at their cables and if they LOOK clean, and don't see any white corrosion build up on the terminals, they believe the battery terminals are making a good contact. Once again - NOT SO. Those terminals and cables are lead. Lead is a shiny metal. Scrap the top of a battery terminal and it will shine. That darkness on the terminal you scraped off is also present between you battery terminal and cable, and will prevent a good contact. All it needs is to cause a drop in voltage to your starter and you will hear a clicking sound from the starter. Get a good battery terminal and cable cleaner at your auto parts store. The type with the wires inside that will really make those terminals and cables shine. Once you have cleaned them, your battery will put out max voltage. If you still hear the clicking sound, take your battery to an auto parts store and they will check it. It may not be holding a charge or you may have a dead cell. However, DO NOT try and clean your battery terminals with Baking Soda or Coca Cola. I've worked on cars for over 55 years and all that does is clean the OUTSIDE of the terminals - NOT the connection between the cable and terminal. So many people run out and buy a new starter or battery when it is really the connection itself.
The anti-theft in my car won't turn off. What should I do?
Answer from WikiHow. Can be found here as well.Some cars have an automatic theft system built in that can sometimes become activated without any threats. Here is how you can correct this problem without causing your battery to die.Method 1:Turning the Theft System Off from Inside the Car1 Check for a light on the dashboard. It will say System on "Theft System" or something similar.2 Make sure nothing is loose if you tried to take anything apart.3 Check to see if the battery has not been drained. At that point the car will not do any thing, except make a slight effort to start. If the battery is dead, ask someone to help jump start it for you.4 Place the key in the ignition, and turn it slightly to the right. This is also known as position 2, in which the car is on but the engine is off. This gives power to the necessary components to allow this method of bypassing the alarm to work. When you turn the key the radio should work, and the dash lights should light up.5 Keep the key that way for ten minutes, maybe a little more. The theft system light should turn off, and the car can be started.Method 2Turning the Theft System Off Outside of the Car1 Insert the key in the driver's side door. Even if you have a keyless entry, you'll want to use the actual, physical car key and place it in the lock on the outside of the driver's side door.2 Turn the key and hold it. Turn the key so that you unlock the door, but hold it in place for several seconds. This can sometimes bypass the factory alarm and allow you to start the vehicle. This method lets the vehicle know that you have the actual key to the vehicle and in most cases will bypass in the even the key fob (the part that permits keyless entry) is broken, misplaced, or has a dead battery. This method most commonly works in BMW's, Mercedes, and VW's.
What causes a car to lose power while driving?
In modern cars with engine management systems, it is the system itself that reduces power if it detects a problem with the engine. A warning light will come and and the engine will go into 'limp home' mode, where speed it usually limited to 80km/h or lower. Any number of things can cause this, but usually it relates to loss of something important, like a coolant leak, or low oil pressure. Sometimes it can also be a false positive due to a fault in the management system itself.All internal combustion engines require three things to work; compression, fuel and ignition. Degradation of any one of theses will result in lower engine performance.Loss of compression can result from engine wear, common in engines with several hundred thousand kilometers on the clock. Engine efficiency is lost because gasses can escape past the piston rings. Mechanical failure such as a blown head gasket can cause a similar loss.Blockages or degradation of the fuel supply, such as a worn fuel pump will cause loss of power for obvious reasons.Ignition faults stem from things such as a cracked distributor head, worn spark plugs, worn ignition coil or faulty spark plug leads. They generally result in some cylinders not igniting the fuel/air mix, thus reducing the power.Loss of lubricant or coolant will cause the engine to overheat and then seize. In this case, loss of power is 100%.Worn bearings in the engine will usually not reduce power much, they will keep working, making more and more noise, and then fail catastrophically, causing the engine to seize.It is also possible for timing chains to slip, adjustment screws to loosen in the carburetor, exhaust manifolds to develop leaks , and other minor mechanical faults to occur that will reduce engine power. This can happen suddenly or gradually over time.